For low-profile cantilever brakes I’ve heard it is often necessary to extend the pads inward toward the rims quite a bit during set-up to get more leverage… in addition to lowering the yoke as much as practical to fit fenders and the tire.

I noted on your tutorial that you in fact did this with the pads – would you always recommend doing this for optimal power?

In response to Bryce’s comment (which was posted over a year ago but I’ll respond anyways), I also have old-style cantilever brakes that do not have a screw for adjusting spring tension. Instead, my brakes have a hex nut that is connected to the spring — this needs to be turned to adjust the spring tension. To rotate the nut, there is a recess for a 5mm allen wrench for tightening/loosening the nut.

In order to adjust the spring tension, you need to have one hand with a crescent wrench on the hex nut and the other hand turning the allen wrench. Loosen the hex nut by turning the allen wrench– you’ll feel it when the nut is loose enough because the spring will suddenly push the brakes against the rim of the tires. You can then use the crescent wrench to turn the hex nut to the desired position, then use the allen wrench to tighten and keep it in that position.

Hope this helps for anybody else who also has older cantilever brakes!

Here’s some more info about centering from Sheldon Brown. Check the section titled ‘Spring attachment’ for another possible solution to your problem. This only works if the brake bosses on your frame have three holes. You’ll have to carefully remove and install the brake arm to change the position.

Is it therefore not possible to use the allen bolts that keep the metal pieces in place, or maybe adjust the right position of the nut that holds the brake cable, to get this centering done, or is the spring tension screw really unreplaceable?

Many thanks.