Comments on: How To Adjust Your Rear Derailleur

By: al

al — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 02:14:58 +0000

hi – thanks Alex again for the info. I have some questions & Ive searched net but haven’t found answer to my problem – I was thinking can a shimano altus M310 (which shimano state as being 7-8 speed) be used on a 6 speed bike? Ive seen the tourney range (which shimano state as being 6-7 speed) but heard that tourney is nearly all plastic parts. Also is it possible to fit the rear mech without breaking the chain? e.g by undoing the two cage bolts? thanks for the help & a fitting a rear mech vid would be sooo kewl… for newbies like myself

By: Brian

Brian — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 20:07:24 +0000

I wish that last part wasn’t true, I always use WD-40

By: Val

Val — Sat, 07 Nov 2009 20:12:45 +0000

Cheers for the Great videos. I have just replaced the cassette and rear derailleur on a 90’s Raleigh M-Trax 100 (7 speed rear) for Sram X.7 rear derailleur (9 Speed) and SRAM PG-990 cassette, with no tension on the derailleur it will still not engage the smallest cog, I have checked the adjustment screw and made sure it is not stopping it. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks

By: Phakopsora Pachyraziri

Phakopsora Pachyraziri — Fri, 30 Oct 2009 00:18:08 +0000

When i did it, i didn’t really think about it and just did it and it worked.

By: Mike

Mike — Tue, 20 Oct 2009 17:58:56 +0000

My rear derailer is weird. I have 7 spokes but it reaches the smallest gear when you turn the handle to 6, and when you turn the handle to 1 it goes to the second largest gear, and it skips spokes in between, and it’s really frustrating, and I am not sure what the problem is.

By: Alex

Alex — Wed, 14 Oct 2009 19:55:06 +0000

Hi Eddie, I would take it down to your local bike shop to see if they have a replacement part.

By: Eddie

Eddie — Tue, 13 Oct 2009 05:21:02 +0000

My cable anchor bolt is not latching on with the cable. Its seems like a “spring” that the anchor bolts attaches to is missing. The anchor bolt won’t grab at all, its seems like the bolt is not the right size and just spins loosely. Plumbing tape won’t hold it. Its a dura ace rear derailleur. This is the only thing wrong with it. Am I SOL or can this be fixed?

By: Paul T.

Paul T. — Sun, 11 Oct 2009 13:29:53 +0000

Right. I assumed the allen key bolt was tight enough to keep the body from rotating but taking a closer look at the vid it looks like the body angle needs to change dynamically as the gears are shifted.

However, my derailleur is ancient, as is my bike. My B screw simply contacts the metal hook that attaches the entire assembly to the dropout. There is no little spring on the back and no “tensioning” to speak of. This is why I was confused. I think all my b screw does is prevent the derailleur body from rotating too far left.

Here’s the derailleur in case you’re interested:

http://www.disraeligears.co.uk/Site/SunTour_GT_derailleur_%283rd_style%29.html

By the way thanks for these videos I’m reading a bike repair book but a video is worth a million words.

By: Alex

Alex — Sun, 11 Oct 2009 02:39:19 +0000

@Paul,

The allen key bolt should be tight. The b-screw is for adjusting the top pulley’s distance from the sprockets. Check out the video at the top of this page at about 1:08 for an explanation.

By: Paul T.

Paul T. — Sun, 11 Oct 2009 01:29:34 +0000

Alex or someone who knows: why is the B screw even necessary? Doesn’t the huge shiny allen key bolt hold the body in place enough?

or is the Allen key bolt supposed to be slightly loose? I’m confused.