27. How to Tape Drop Handlebars
Learn how to remove and install the handlebar grip tape on road-style drop handlebars.
Today we’ll learn how to wrap handlebar tape on road-style drop handlebars. For this job you’ll need a set of handlebar tape, some bar plugs, a sharp knife or razor, and some electrical tape. It’s also a good idea to keep your hands clean throughout the procedure.
The first step is to flip back both brake lever hoods and remove the old tape. Some people like to simply cut it away using a razor blade, but I prefer to unwrap it to avoid scoring the aluminum or damaging the cables. Then remove the plugs from the inside of the bar ends.
Before you begin taping, check the alignment of your brake levers. The bottom of each lever should be in line with the bottom of the handlebar and they should also be inline with the side of your bars. Make sure the cables are securely fastened to front side of the handlebar using electrical tape.
Let’s start with the right side. Your new tape should have come with two extra 3″ strips of tape. Wrap this around the bottom of the brake clamp from the rear end. This hides the gap that is often left behind when you wrap around the lever.
To start wrapping, unpeel a bit of the adhesive backing and start by placing the end of the tape under the end of the bars. You’ll want to leave about half of the tape hanging over the edge on the first wrap, which we’ll tuck into the bar end later. The most common direction to wrap the tape is clockwise on the right side, and counter-clockwise on the left.
While you’re wrapping, make sure each rotation overlaps itself about 1/3. You’ll want to make sure the middle section of adhesive on the backside of the tape is always contacting the bars. Pull on the tape evenly through the process to keep the wrap tight, but be very carful not pull too hard or the fragile tape will snap. Pull off the adhesive backing as you go, as this will keep it from getting dirty until you’re ready to apply it.
When you get to the brake lever, try to make sure the top edge of the tape overlaps a little bit of the bottom of the brake lever in order to avoid leaving a gap. Then pull the tape around the back end of the brake clamp and over the top.
Now pull the tape around and continue wrapping the top section of handlebar. Stop wrapping when you get to the handlebar’s clamping ferrule, or about an inch from the stem. If you have handlebar accesories you may want to leave some extra room for them to clamp on. Before you finish, it’s a good idea to go back and check that there are no gaps in your wrap job.
Holding the tape in place, cut the remaining angled section of tape away using a sharp blade, so that you are left with a clean cut. Then secure it with a few wraps of electrical tape. Make sure to pull the tape so that it stretches nice and evenly. I like to overlap the end of the handlebar tape and completely seal it with the electrical tape.
Once the wrapping is done, go back to the bar end and tuck the extra tape into the handlebar using the bar plug. This will make it hard to fit the plug in, but if you push it hard enough or use a rubber mallet to tap it in gently it should fit and leave your handlebar ends nice and tidy.
To wrap the left side, repeat the same procedure but remember to start wrapping the tape counter-clockwise instead. The left side should end up being an exact mirror image of the right.
The last step is to flip your brake hoods back to where they were.
I'm looking for help with a bike I bought about a week ago, I would stress that this bike is brand new, not used before.
The bike arrived mostly assembled and one thing I needed to do was slot the handlebars + stem into the bike frame and tighten the bolt in order to hold the stem tight so it turns with the front wheel.
However when I tighten the bolt the handlebars + stem are still able to move with relative ease. I have attached some photos to help explain the problem.
As you can see when I move the front wheel the stem and handl... Read more >>
I made some videos to help out people that are new like me to repair this stock part. It's pretty simple and I found the exact two parts that fit perfectly. The sleeves from the stock even fit on the new handlebar. Check it out here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOyw-1gzyz4&feature=autoshare... Read more >>
I built a Raleigh burner and the handle bars still move and squeak and I think it might be the ball bearings but I don't know what size ball bearing I need any help?... Read more >>
Looking for a bullhorn handlebar that is bent inward slightly in the grip area?
Like so /_\
Had pics of some on a phone but it's dead and gone now.... Read more >>
The Newton setting is printed on the stem. Would it be the same torque for the top bolt and the two sides?... Read more >>
Hello! Could you help me please. Today when I was riding it happened I think ten times. I try to turn the wheel, but the handlebar gets stuck. I push it harder and then it goes. What could that be?
The bicycle is relatively new (6 months or something).... Read more >>
was just given a used, but in excellent condition dahon helios bike. Reason for giving it away is that the stem at the very bottom locking mechanism( the one circled in the picture) is loose, so it is turning left or right with just applying small effort, which makes it dangerous to safe as as on as I try to steer, only stem goes in the desired direction, but wheel is keep going straight. I think it is the bracket that has an allen bolt on it( the one you use to fold the stem), but problem is that I can tighten it all the way. There is still about a 1mm gap between the two parts of the bracket... Read more >>
I bought this bike as a cheap fixer upper for my daughter. The bolt was missing from the top so i don't know what to do. I was thinking of putting a long screw driver down there and hitting it a few times but i decided to fill it with lubrication spray from and then post here too see if anyone might have a better idea.... Read more >>
I know it's kind of boring & I don't know if this will help anyone, but it sure would have helped me a few years ago when I was trying to figure out which bar to go with when I was about to Cruiserfy an old MTB/Comfort bike. . The Reach dimension, how far the bar comes back towards you is really good to know. I listed grip length in case you were considering the feasibility of grip shifters, brake levers, bells etc...
Read more >>
While trying to remove my old 3ttt black quill stem, the bolt on the top that loosens the stem broke off as shown in the picture. I've read that you can cut off the stem, but I currently do not have access to those kind of tools. Are there any other ways that I can remove the stem?... Read more >>
I need to get a new set of grips for a ladies Trek Navagator.The left side grip is one length and the right side is another,so when buying grips do shop by length of grip and handle bar diameter or make of bike? I notice alot of grips advertised don't even have dimensions listed.... Read more >>
How do I tighten the threaded headset on my 1996 men's roadmaster MT Zone 15 speed bike with the Vanguard brake assembly sitting on it?... Read more >>
Hey guys i wanted to ask if any one has put twist grip shiters on drop handle bars as shown in this video
There this bike a gmc denali that has them i think is pretty nifty. I would like to in stall something like that on some b... Read more >>
I just purchased a new bike, a 2011 Marin Bridgeway.
Unboxing and assembly went pretty great until I threw a bit of weight into the handle bars and the stem twisted without the forks.
So, I reefed on the tightening bolt. Just enough to hurt the thumb pushing the allen wrench. I didn't want to bust any threads but it was good and hard. It still slipped under moderately hard handlebar pressure.
Disassembled, everything seemed ok, looked down the steer tube with a flashlight from the top, everything seemed all right. Put it back together. Same problem.<... Read more >>
I've recently been renovating a bike that has been sitting in my garden for quite some time. On a closer inspection I could see that some of the welds had warn and that the stem had bent. I removed the bolt from the top of the handle bars and was unable to remove the handle bars. Knowing that I didn't need the stem I resorted to sawing it in half,
I then found another set of handle bars and forks on another bike that are the same size as the ones I had sawn of... Read more >>