53. How To Install Tektro Auriga Comp Disc Brakes
Learn how to install Tektro Auriga Comp hydraulic disc brake rotor, levers and calipers.
50% of the cost of the bicycle featured in this video was donated by JensonUSA.
In this tutorial we’ll learn how to install Tektro Auriga Comp Disc Brakes. We’ll be covering other brands in future tutorials.
For this job you will need 2, 4 and 5mm allen wrenches and a T25 torx wrench. Your bike will also need to have compatible disc brake mounts on both the hubs and frame and fork.
First you’ll have to remove the wheel from the bike. Attach the rotor to the hub using the supplied bolts, making sure the rotation direction of the disc is installed in the same direction of the forward wheel movement. Tighten all 6 bolts with your T25 torx wrench until they are snug but not fully tightened. Then fully tighten the bolts in the following pattern until all are equally tightened to 4-6Nm.
Place the brake lever with the half clamp on the handlebars, with the hose facing toward the center of the handlebars. Tighten the brake lever clamp in the desired position with a 4mm allen bolt. Tighten these bolts to 5-7Nm. If needed, adjust the brake lever reach closer to the handle bars with a 2mm allen wrench.
Before installing the disc caliper adapters, make sure your wheel axle is fully seated in the dropouts with the brake rotor on the caliper mounting side. Mount the adapter with the engraved F or R facing towards the axle as shown. Tighten the adapter bolts to 6-8Nm of torque.
Make sure the pads are correctly positioned in the caliper, then place the caliper over the rotor with the bleed screw facing away from the wheel. Attach the caliper to the adapter using the supplied allen bolts. Loosely tighten the bolts so you can still move the caliper.
With the caliper mounting bolts loose, fully depress the brake lever and keep the lever depressed so the caliper correctly centers itself on the rotor. With the brake lever depressed, tighten the caliper mounting bolts to 6-8Nm. Use a zip tie to fasten the brake hose to ensure it is out of the way.
In our next tutorial we will cover how to bleed the brake lines on this model.
I decided to clean my front disk brake pads by heating them. Instead of sticking them in the oven, I took the medieval approach and threw them into a pile of glowing charcoal. Apparently not a good idea, it took just a few minutes to completely turnoff the pads leaving the bare metal plates.
LOL.. off to my LBS to get replacements.... Read more >>
I have loosened 2 screws on the front brake calliper and since then the front brake no longer works, could someone help me please.... Read more >>
I was given this MTB which has the right support for the rear brakes broken on the frame.
Here is the bike seen from the left side
And here is the details on the "pins" coming out of the frame in the rear, where the rear brakes were mounted (I didn't disassemble them myself, was already like this).
I'm not sure what I can / should do here. I guess to put the same brakes back on, the loose/broken part would need to be re-soldered onto the f... Read more >>
So i have pad brakes and on the back 1 works and one doesn't, the one that doesn't work, when places in position it is automatically pulled towards the wheel causing the pad to rub the wheel as soon as i tighten it, I've tried taking it off an repositioning it, doing my cables looser and tighter an changing it round for one of my old front brake holders but it just does not stay off the wheel.
Please help... Read more >>
I bought a Schwinn Deluxe Breeze and tried it out, back pedaled and bike braked quickly (maybe a 1/4 rotation) and firmly. Took it for a ride later and about 3 times I pedaled back 3-4 complete rotations and a time or 2 it never did brake.
When walking up a steep hill I noticed the pedals turning with the chain. A bit later pedals remained stationery when walking it.
This is what I've found when researching: 1960-65. There is a serial #
It has a Bendix automatic red band brake - no kickback
I read the arm has to be in proper place with the cone to work ... Read more >>
Been discussing this on a different post, but with what has happened I thought I would just make anyone interested aware of a problem. I bought a new carbon fiber road frame and a new 105 groupo. I now find that, due to the chunky nature of the new carbon frames, the standard front brake centerbolt is about 1 1/4" short of making it through the bridge and the rear is about 3/4" short for the rear bridge. With the frame construction, finding longer nuts is not an option.
Does anyone know where I can find a 3 3/8" long (total length)bolt for a shimano brake? I will be calling Shimano t... Read more >>
I have a bit of a noise coming from the rear brake, it makes no noise whatsoever when moving it's only at a stand still when you hold the rear brake on tight and put some tension on to the pedal or if you try to push the bike forwards.
I have had everything apart and cleaned it all, the rotor has been off the wheel and cleaned and refitted everything, made sure there are no loose items.
I do not remember this happening on old alu kona frame, I have a carbon cube frame now.
My next move was going to fit some washers between the callipe... Read more >>
I would like to ask for some help from you.
Brakes: Shimano Hydraulic. Used for 1000 km.
Problem: It started to leak. It seems that it is leaking from the "Pushroad to Brake padal/lever" (view image: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/47/Hydraulic_disc_brake_diagram.gif). I do not know the terms but the metal "cable" that connects the reservoir and the lever and the lever itself is oily.
Brakes lost the power.
Read more >>
Building up my new bike and in preparation (waiting on frame) I have installed my 105 5700 STI levers onto the bars. However, they look funky, looking from the front, the change levers stick outwards a lot, do they 'pull in' when the cables ar hooked up, or is their normal 'rest' position ? The body of the changer is not too far up the bar and the body sticks straight out.... Read more >>
I bought a brand new Specialized Hotrock 12 Coaster bike yesterday only to discover that the coaster brake ceases up after being applied when I got home. The crankshaft freezes up and will randomly unlock when fiddled with. I hope that makes sense.
Since the bike shop is so far away, I was wondering if anyone could give me a quick fix for this kind of issue before I pay a local bike shop to fix my brand new bike. I would really appreciate it.
Thanks!... Read more >>
I have an old 1980s peugeot road bike with dual lever "suicide brakes".
The little plastic piece that is a spacer between the screw and the suicide lever is cracked, but I can't figure out what it is called to find a new one.
It looks like a washer, but it actually is not, it is a cylinder that slides in with a washer thing on top... think of like a top hat but with a hollow center column.
Do you know what these are called and where I could find a replacement one?
I like my suicide brakes and would like to keep them but i need... Read more >>
Any help much appreciated! I disassembled my Shimano Sora BR-3400 dual pivot side pull rear caliper.
For some reason, the bolt that runs through the whole caliper in the centre gets thicker and will only allow the middle bit of the caliper to go onto it. See pictures.
Any suggestions?... Read more >>
Hi All - Trying to fix the coaster brakes on the bike my daughter outgrew so we can give it to the younger daughter of a family friend. However, the coaster brake is no longer working and I obviously don't want to give away something that is useless or unsafe. I'm not handy but decided to give it a try. The problem is that the brakes just would not engage at least not without turning the pedals backwards maybe 1-2 full revolutions. It really occurred after I took the wheel off to put on a new tube/tire. It's been useless ever since that event.
I started with these sites:
Read more >>
I'm not sure why but the pads on my front v-brake continuously rub against the rim, I've replaced the pads, re-installed a new brake cable, screwed the adjuster screws as far in as they can go, cleaned the calipers and re-greased them. I've even installed new v-brake levers but when I press the brake one of the pads does not retract fully and stays up-tight against the wheel while the other pad retracts a little better.
My wheel wobbles a little bit when I turn the bike upside and spin it freely but it isn't buckled, perhaps it needs truing but I'm not entirely sure. Not sure if ... Read more >>
hello, some of you may remember me, i posted a while back about my gears on the forum relevant to that. ive had some problems with my brakes, though, and finally decided to do something about it.
for those who dont remember, ive got an old fuji road bike refitted with hybrid tires.
for a long time, ive felt that my brakes are not all that effective. i mentioned this once when having a repair done, and he told me that theyre not really 'brakes' theyre just to slow you down. (as opposed to stopping you.)
so the first question is, what exactly did he m... Read more >>