3. How To Replace a Cassette Cluster
Applies to most Shimano cassette/freehub combos (not freewheels).
IMPORTANT: Nuts and bolts on your bike should always be tightened to the manufacturer's specifications.
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Today we’re going to replace a common rear cassette cluster. It’s actually quite a straight forward procedure, but you will need a couple of special bike tools for the job: a chain whip and a lock ring tool. Some lock ring tools have a built in handle, but the one we are using today is most common, and requires the use of a large wrench or vise clamp to hold it in place.
Cassette Removal
The first step is to wrap the chain whip around one of the bigger sprockets. This basically holds the cassette body firmly in place while we loosen the lock ring. Next, insert the lock ring tool into the lock ring’s inner notches and place a wrench securely over the hexagonal fitting.
As you can see in the video, I’ve positioned both tools to give me maximum leverage. Now simply push the handles toward each other until the lock ring loosens. Once you remove the lock ring the rest of the cassette should easily slide up and off the freehub body. Since the cassette is removed, it’s a good idea to check the freehub body to make sure it spins freely and is not loose.
Click on this image to visit Sheldon Brown’s page on this topic:
Cassette Installation
Installing the new cassette is basically the opposite procedure. Take a close look at the splines on the freehub and cassette. You’ll notice that one of the notches on the body and cassette is wider than the rest. Once the notches are lined up, simply slide on the cassette body, spacer and outer sprocket, and then thread the lock ring into place.
This time we only need the lock ring tool for tightening. We certainly don’t want the cassette coming loose, so it’s a good idea to stand the wheel up, so we get enough downward leverage to tighten it properly. You’ll hear the lock ring ratcheting as it tightens.
Once installed, check again to make sure the cassette spins freely and is not loose. It’s also a good idea to examine your sprocket spacing to make sure all of the sprockets are correctly positioned. If it all looks good then you’re ready to reinstall your wheel and go for a ride!
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Recommended Books:
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69 Responses to “How To Replace a Cassette Cluster”
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and oh, if you have a maintenance/repair question, please ask in the help forums.
Recommended Tools:
- Park FR-5G
Cassette lockring tool with handy guide pin. - Park FRW-1
One-inch socket securely holds freewheel and lockring tools. - Park SR-1
Combination chain whip and freewheel/lockring remover wrench. - Cone Wrench Set
Ultra-thin heads to work well with the narrowest of adjustment cones. - Cleaning Brush
Curved, toothed-end reaches dirt deep between gears. - Essential Tool Kit
Includes tools needed for many basic adjustments and repairs.
I purchased an 8 speed SRAM cassette. It came with the 4 pieces. The main sprocket, 2 small cogs and the lockring (there was no “spacer” I assume). Your video shows you putting on one the sprocket , the small cog and then the lockring. Another person above mentioned he had to install a spacer in addition to a cog and lockring.
So it seems cassettes vary in terms of what pieces are included depending on their Manufacturer or model. Is that correct?
I should also mention that the cassette I purchased had an annoying piece of plastic in the middle of the cassette I had to pry out before I could install it.
Yes, some cassettes are set up different… the one I used in the video was the most common setup. As long as the spacing between the sprockets is equal it should work fine!
very helpful video.
I’ve just bought a used bike and came to realize that my cassette doesn’t spin at all! Any ideas?
James, it sounds like your freehub body is seized and may need replacing.
Alex loving your easy to follow videos and invaluable advice, but I need to change my cassette and chain on my 8 speed shimano set up. Shimano cassette and SRAM compatible chain seem to be the way to go, but my existing set up uses a plastic disc, I guess to prevent ‘chain suck’ or the chain getting caught up behind the sprockets.
I intend to remove this disc and use without it. Would i then need some kind of spacer there instead to take the space up or use the spacer already talked about in the threads above behind the first sprocket? Thank you.
The spacer usually clips onto the wheel spokes and doesn’t act as a spacer. You can do without it fine, just make sure the limit screws on your rear derailleur are set up properly so your chain doesn’t shift into the wheel.
I’ve been visiting AND recommending these tutorials for a couple of months now. I don’t recall if I already expressed my gratitude here, so I’m doing it now. I know a lot of cycling pages and discussion boards/forums. I’ve read some of the classical literature on bicycle wrenching. Somehow, these videos have made a difference. They are simple, straightforward, and pleasant. They are a big help; no book or text I know is this clear.
Today I replaced a cassette for the first time. Bottom brackets and cranks are not a ‘mystery’ anymore too. Thank you very much! Please keep up the good work. All the best, A.
First of all, there is no bicycle shop within 50 miles of where I live. I have the kind of cassette cluster that you have to set the bearings inside of the cluster before you install it on the freehub. How many races are there inside the cluster? Do any bearings go in the race that the pawls or ratchets travel in? How many bearings go in each race? What size are the bearings? After I set the bearings, the cluster will not slide comfortably or completely on the freehub, and needless to say, it scatters the bearings all over the freehub and inside the cluster. My bike is a 24″ Roadmaster about 4 or 5 years old.
Hi Billy,
I haven’t heard of a cassette cluster that comes with bearings (unless you mean a freewheel). Hopefully someone who knows better will have an answer for you here
Great tutorial! But you should also mention that some cassettes have a small thin metal washer that goes on the hub BEFORE the cassette is installed. This is the case with many Shimano Hyperglide cassettes, e.g., Ultergra CS-6600 model. Without the small thin metal washer in place prior to the largest cog, the cassette will wobble and the chain will make a lot of racket when shifting up and down the cassette. Thanks again for a great tutorial!
Thanks Jim. Sounds like you are referring to the freehub body, which usually has a thin spacer between the freehub and the hub. As far as I know, not many cassettes have a spacer between the cassette and freehub body.
Thank you for the vid. I am going to second Jim here. While switching a shimano ultegra cassette between wheels, I noticed this very thin spacer/washer on the BACK of the cassette. If I hadnt taken a cloth to wipe the cassette and knocked the spacer off, I wouldn’t have even noticed it. I experimented a bit with and without this spacer. On my wheel, it causes the cassette to be moved distal to the hub by a significant distance (2-4mm;) much more than the thinkness of the spacer can account. As far as I can tell, it rests on the “shoulders” of the splines and limits the distance the cassette can move inboard.
My concern is that with the spacer, the gap between the spokes and the largest cassette gear is quite large. I can easily see the freehub body. Is the spacer optional? My cassette does not wobble without it.
These are excellent! Thank you very much. I got a bike a couple of years back from my brother. As the chain is savaged. I need to change this and the chain. Simply would not have figured it out without a quality resource like this. Thanks for taking the time to do these man.
Alex,
Thanks mucho for your helpful vids and instructions. Knowledge is power! And, I might add, a better riding experience.
Hello;
What if our Trek 800 doesn’t look like a freewheel or cassette cluster? There is no lock ring that we can see???
Thanks all
@Ray – Your Trek should have either a freewheel or a cassette, as the only other options are coaster brakes and internal gear hubs. If you post a photo to the help forums we can help you figure out which one it is.
Thank You so much!!! your tutorials were exactly what i needed. easy to follow video instructions are perfect for someone who has never worked on a bicycle before. i successfully replaced the broken spokes on my rear wheel which included removing the cassette cluster. without your guidance i would have been totally lost.
again, Thank You So Much!!!
Have-A-Great-Day!!!
Great vids! Just one thing, can you add the full screen option to the embedded flash video player? This would make it easier to see what’s going on in some of the videos. Thanks!
Thank you all!
@ Tibor. I’ll be doing some changes to the videos over the coming month or two and I’ll look into the full screen option