Comments on: How to Replace Cotterless Crank Arms

By: will

will — Wed, 12 Jan 2011 23:06:35 +0000

you dont need a torque wrench – tighten the bolts not too tight then ride around
the block this will loosen bolts a bit so re tighten then ride a mile or so and
repeat with increasing distance until bolts stay tight this method never gives me any problems

By: michael W

michael W — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 14:29:46 +0000

After all this time and following your instructions to the letter- I still managed to make a minor mistake. After putting back on and tightening cranks, I noticed that my chain was under the crank. Oops.

Word to the wise from the obvious department: Make sure the chain is on the correct side of the crank PRIOR to installation.

By: Robert Bowen

Robert Bowen — Sun, 28 Feb 2010 05:54:52 +0000

Thanks again, keep up the good work!

By: Alex

Alex — Sun, 28 Feb 2010 02:52:33 +0000

Hi Robert,

You can get the threads chased. Your local bike shop may have the tool. Much better to pay them a few bucks than buy the tool yourself… they run around $300-500.

By: Robert Bowen

Robert Bowen — Sat, 27 Feb 2010 00:19:34 +0000

Thanks also, and your welcome. I could have been a little clearer on the later points, but brevity took precedence.

I have another problem, the bearing cup on the non-drive side was apparently installed with a press, rather than a wrench!! I have some metal working skills, but if the lower bracket housing is gouged up inside, I may have to build up and re-machine the interior of the housing. I know machine shops that will do the actual work, but I’m not sure it will be necessary, and the frame is aluminum, I suspect it has a steel insert inside the bracket housing.

Turning the adjustment bearing cup was only accomplished with a hammer and cold chisel. 15 minutes of beating on it rather seriously moved it half a turn, and back again, same effort, after removing the lockring and trying the proper “Park Tools” wrench you use in the video Any pertinent info, as to thread chasers for the bearing cup threads inside the housing or sleeve inserts for the bottom bracket would be helpful. Its a very nice low priced frame, and I’m an ex VW home mechanic turning bicycle hobbyist, so nth degree efforts on this are a likely out come just to conquer the “beast”, and for edification.

Keep up the good work.

By: Jony

Jony — Mon, 22 Feb 2010 21:14:02 +0000

Thanks for all your tutorials. Really clear and precise guidance.

By: Alex

Alex — Fri, 12 Feb 2010 20:47:34 +0000

Thanks Robert, good advice. I’ll do a tutorial on torque and tightening. Right after I made this video I realized the mistake and added common torque specs in the text just below it (video updates).

By: Robert Bowen

Robert Bowen — Fri, 12 Feb 2010 20:22:09 +0000

The torquing comment about “use your arm strength” can lead to bad things. Remember at 12″ from the socket head or equivalent (ie: the center of the nut bolt or screw) 10 lbs. equals 10 ft.. lbs. . Consider using a 12 inch handle/wrench and a weight, you can use common items and check their weight on a bathroom scale. if the weight is small, weigh it with yourself, then weigh yourself, and subtract the difference. The inaccuracy in this method is way less. You can alternately use part of your body weight, estimating off the top of your head, just don’t lunge on the wrench, momentum increases the force dramatically. 6″ length you double the weight or force, 24″ length cut it in half, etc.

By: Alex

Alex — Mon, 08 Feb 2010 02:17:02 +0000

Hi Kyle,

Yes those are cotterless!

By: Kyle

Kyle — Sun, 07 Feb 2010 23:18:33 +0000

hey. i was wondering if the Truvativ Hussefelt cranks are cotterless cranks? thanks.