How To Replace A Freewheel
Demonstrates how to remove and install a traditional thread-on freewheel cluster.
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- 01:21 - Apply a thin layer of grease to the hub threads before installing the freewheel.
In this tutorial we’ll learn how to remove and install a freewheel on your bike. You may remember a while back when we covered cassette removal and installation.
Here’s how the two systems differ: a cassette is a series of gears that slides onto a freewheel unit. This is a better system because it allows you to replace worn sprockets without having to replace the freewheeling component (freehub body). A freewheel on the other hand, contains both the sprockets and freehub in a single unit that threads onto the outer flange of your hub. We’ll be covering removal and installation of this style today.
Click on this image to visit Sheldon Brown’s page on this topic:
Loading ...For this job you’ll need a notched freewheel remover and a large wrench or vise clamp.
Freewheel Removal
First you’ll have to remove the rear wheel from your bike. Then in some rare cases the axle nuts will be too big to allow the freewheel tool to slide into the freewheel, so you’ll have to overhaul the hub to remove them first. Now slide the freewheel remover into the freewheel and loosen it with your large wrench by holding the wheel on the firmly on the ground and turning your wrench counter clockwise.
If your freewheel is really tight, you may need to mount the tool in a vise clamp so that you can use the wheel as leverage. I don’t have a clamp to demonstrate this, but once mounted in the vise, you can easily turn the wheel counter-clockwise to loosen the freewheel.
Freewheel Installation
Before installing the new freewheel, inspect the threads on the hub to make sure they aren’t damaged. Be careful threading the new freewheel on, as you don’t want to cross-thread it. If it feels unusually tight right away, back the freewheel off and try again until it threads on smoothly.
Tightening
To tighten a freewheel, all you have to do is get it finger tight and then re-install your wheel and go for a ride. The freewheel will tighten itself while you’re pedaling!
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Comments & Questions - Help Forums
20 Responses to “How To Replace A Freewheel”
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I always like to add some grease or better yet, anti-seize compound to the threads before installing the freewheel.
Another great video. Thanks.
Thanks for catching that, I had forgotten to mention it. Greasing the threads is certainly good to do.
What a service! I got back from a ride the other day and decided to check the bearings on my rear rim. Removing the cones allowed the bearings to fall out……..what a concept!
After the panic wore off I found your website and was able to purchase a lockring removal tool and I constructed a chain whip tool based on the tutorials.
The bike is fixed, the drive train is clean and oiled, making no noise. After a few more hours on your site, I’ve decided to undertake ALL repairs and maintenance on my bike. Thanks again for a great service, well done vids, etc.
Thanks so much for explaining the difference between cassette freehub and freewheel! I don’t have very helpful bike shops near me, and doing it myself is a necessity. This whole website is a Godsend. Keep up the good work!
Just switched out my freewheel last night. This tutorial helped a ton! Thanks!
Hi, I’m trying to remove the freewheel but the unit turns counter-clockwise naturally when it’s faced towards me. I tried turning it clockwise but it doesn’t budge, and it makes a not-so-good-sounding noise when I turn it too much. This might be a very stupid question, but then again this is my first attempt at bicycle repair. Any advice?
Oscar, it sounds like it’s working right (it should be spin counter-clockwise but not clockwise). I’m a little worried about the noise you’re getting when you turn it clockwise… might be some dirt inside the freewheel. If your local shop has the right tools, they may be able to flush it out and squirt some grease into it.
Hey Alex,
I was able to get it off with some effort by turning it clockwise. Thanks for your reply!
Congratulations for the helpful video tutorials.
One comment on the easiness with which you unscrewed the freewheel, if you have an old bike it won’t unscrew like that
I removed a freewheel from a 15 year old Peugeot mountain bike. It was unmovable with the wrench and the freewheel remover due to rust and grit. The only thing I managed was to damage the freewheel remover.
The solution, like you said, was given by securing the wheel on a vise clamp and turning the wheel really hard. Another thing to note is that the freewheel remover was too short so we used one with a bigger head.
Keep up the good work
Right I have a Carlton Truwel, my grandad says its about 40 yr old. I’m thinking of replacing the 5spd freewheel with a 7spd. I know the distance between the drop out on the frame and the wheel hub is wide enough for 7spd. But my main question is, are all freewheels and hubs compatible?
It’s currently an ‘atom’ freewheel on an ‘atom’ hub and the freewheel I want to put on is a ‘bankrupt’. Do you think an ‘atom’ hub and ‘bankrupt’ freewheel are compatible?
Daryl
The main thing to watch for would be your axle spacing. The new freewheel will be wider and so you’ll likely have to get a longer axle with a few more spacers on the freewheel side. Then your wheel may end up off-center and the spokes may have to all be adjusted (dished) so that the rim ends up centered (in relation to your brake pads).
Alex
Could you help me? I have a Miyata 10 speed about 25 years old. I never used the bike very much and haven’t ridden it for about three years. Recently I took it out for a short ride and at one point coasted. I noticed that the chain really got loose and sloppy. Also when I push the bike forward the front sprocket turns by it self. I hope you can help me.
Thank you in advance.
Jim Siciliano
It sounds like your freewheel is gummed up. Sometimes if you have a good local bike shop, they can flush it out and re-grease it for you (takes a special tool). If not, you may have to replace it.
Thanks for the tutorial, it was great. I changed out my freewheel last night and the installation was really easy. The hard part was getting it off. I tried a small vice, and several wrenches with the freewheel removal tool. What ultimately ended up working was tapping the end of the wrench with a hammer, and then coming down with all my weight (practically had to stand on the end of the wrench). It was insanely hard. I thought I was doing it wrong but it eventually came loose, and the new freewheel threaded on perfectly.
Just FYI, I snooped around my two local bike shops (the grungy ones, not the upscale $3000 road bike shops). They were going to charge $40 plus labor ($20-30) to replace the freewheel. I got the part and tool online for $25. So, already this website has saved me at least $35. Thanks so much!
Some additional advice:
Keep the Freewheel Remover tool in place while wrestling with the wrench.
For a hollow axle: With the Freewheel Remover tool in place, put your Quick Release skewer through the axle from the non-drive side, and thread it on slightly on the drive side.
For a solid axle: With the Freewheel Remover tool in place, lightly thread a nut onto the axle on the drive side.
I want to buy a removal tool for our family repair kit. I have seen 2 and 4 prong tools as well as another style without prongs. Is there any “general” type I’d think the two prong, but we have several brands and ages of bikes. thanks for your info
Hi Rapps, The 2 prong and 4 prong style are generally used on older Suntour type freewheels. The two most common removers are the Park FR-1 for freewheels and the Park FR-5 combined with a chainwhip for removing cassettes.
Well here is one for ya.
I went to remove the Freewheel on an old 21 speed Huffy, so old that it was even made in the USA. The bottom bracket and front axel were completely dry of any grease. The Freewheel was totally stuck on good. I even put it in the vise as you have instructed. I feel It should have worked, but it didn’t, instead it broke my FR-1 Freewheel Remover! (I’m certain I was turning counter clockwise.) I was/am amazed at this. It seems that it is welded on there.
Any suggestions on how I can possibly remove it?
Hi David, I don’t think your freewheel is welded on. If you have a steel hub, it may be that the freewheel threads have actually bonded to the hub via rust or corrosion. I would take your wheel into a bike shop for a second opinion.
This is great! With your help, I just pulled my freewheel to replace two broken spokes, and will be riding again tomorrow. Thank you so much!