11. How to Lubricate Brake and Shift Cables
Cable lubrication is recommended, especially if you ride in the rain or have old cable housings.
Cable lubrication is recommended, especially if you ride in the rain or have old cable housings.
Most brake and shift cables these days have a plastic lining built into the housing, therefore eliminating the need for lubrication. However, if you ride a lot in wet weather, or have an older bike without the plastic lining, you’ll want to lubricate the cables to prevent rust. I personally believe that well-lubricated cables also improve braking and shifting.
I use Tri-flow to lubricate cables, as it is very effective at distributing itself evenly, and lasts a long time. Most bike shops carry it, or they may have a similar product that will work just as well. Make sure you shake the bottle before use, and have a rag handy to wipe off any excess.
Most brake and derailleur systems have some sort of quick release system that allow you to release the cable from it’s stop. Here it is demonstrated on a cantilever brake, but other systems like sidepull, U-brakes, and V-brakes have similar quick release mechanisms.
Once the brake is released, compress the lever, pull on the housing, and slide it through the barrel adjuster until the inner wire is exposed. Now carefully squeeze a few drops of oil onto the inner cable just above where it runs down into the housing. If the cable is vertical, the oil will penetrate the housing on its own.
Slide the cable housing back into the barrel adjuster and re-connect the brake.
To lube the rear shift cable, first shift the gears until the chain is on the largest sprocket, and then stop the wheel from rotating.
With the freewheel stopped from moving, shift your shifter all the way in the opposite direction, as if you were going to shift to the smallest sprocket. The rear derailleur should now be stuck on the largest sprocket, which will give you enough slack to fully release the cable from the frame. Pull the upper section of the outer cable down leaving a section of inner cable exposed. Lube the cable the same way as the brake cable, and then reconnect the outer housing.
Now pull the lower section of housing free from the frame, and slide it away from the derailleur. Repeat the lubrication process and reconnect the housing. Don’t forget to move your rear shifter back to the largest sprocket before rotating the rear wheel.
To lube the front shift cable, shift the front derailleur to the largest sprocket, and then stop the crank from rotating and move the shift lever all the way in the opposite direction. Disconnect and lube the upper housing of the front shift cable the same way as the rear. Reconnect the cable and once again make sure to shift the lever back where it was before rotating the crank.
I recently installed new Tektro road brakes on my drop bars and am having difficulty running the cables through the brake body. Any tips for guiding the cable into the ridiculously small space behind the lever? I installed housing and wrapped it already so I'd rather not take it apart just to do route cable.... Read more >>
So i went to go get a cable for gear shifting and the bike shop repair person said they are the same standard size and you cut to fit. Well the cable i got is too short for the back derailer. Are there longer gear shifting cables? Did he give me brake cables instead? Or do i have to stretch the cable or figure out how to use the shorter one?... Read more >>
Evening folks Put simply, cable stretchers - do I need this tool or is it a luxury I can manage just as well without? http://www.parktool.com/product/cable-stretcher-bt-2 Many thanks... Read more >>
Hey guys, I have Sram gear components on my bike - X-9 Trigger Shifters leading to X-9 front derailleur & X-0 rear derailleur. The barrel adjusters for this system as you're probably aware are at the shifters rather than at the actual derailleurs as in some other models. I'm planning on trying my hand at front & rear derailleur adjustment in the near future. However, the left side barrel adjuster (operates front derailleur) doesn't seem to be functioning. I took the dust covers off both shifters and when you turn the right hand barrel adjuster you can see the cable tightening ... Read more >>
I have a schwinn varsity 10sp that I'm fixing up and need to replace the rear shifter inner-cable. It has the shimano positron II derailleur which has a solid 'piano wire' type cable. I've found replacement cables for the positron on the internet... some indicate the bike model others don't. I did find one identified specifically for schwinn 10sp road bike, but was asking $35 just for inner-cable. Others just identified for shimano positron ranged from $3 to $8. Is there a difference in cables for the positron derailleur? Can anyone advise where I might find a replacement for a rea... Read more >>
I was at the LBS today ordering some parts, and cables and housing were on my list for work later this year, as I want to raise my handlebar 1-2cm for better riding position. I thought they suggested two sets of Shimano shift cable sets, but it looks like they put a Shimano standard cable set (SIS-SP40) and a PTFE full coating set (SIS-SP41) on the counter. I didn't realize the difference, and got both pairs. Can shift cables be used as brake cables? Or, what's the difference? Does the PTFE coating really justify a 4x price differential between the SIS-SP40 and the SIS-SP41? Seems high. ... Read more >>
Howdy all... I have a Mongoose Tactic MTB that I need to adapt to suit BMX handle bars. The bars I have for this are a set of Diamondback's that have a seven inch rise on them. Which is well past any reasonable play in the existing cables. It is a given that they need to be replaced with longer cables. So my question is... will longer cables effect operation and tension of the breaks and shifting? I feel I can do this modification with the proper advice. So any help here would be vastly appreciated thanks...... Read more >>
Hi! I've replaced my front shifter cable. However I dont know where to guide the wire in the front derailleur and where to fasten it to. The inner cable video http://bicycletutor.com/inner-shift-cable/ only deals with the back derailleur, and but can't get any hints from the front derailleur adjustment video http://bicycletutor.com/adjust-front-derailer/ . I've looked for pictures but can't find anything. I would appreciate all help with this! Thanks in advance! Los... Read more >>
I've successfully replaced my back shifting cable, but I am having trouble getting the screw that secures the cable to the back end of the bike back in its place. I took a picture before I removed the screw, which is blue in color (see pic). As you can see, to put the screw there, you would have to somehow reach behind with the screw and fit it in the hole, which is proving to be next to impossible because its really narrow there. I would appreciate any suggestions! Los... Read more >>
Hi! :-) I was wondering how much it would cost to repair a broken shift changing cable on an giant fcr (with shimano)? The cable appears to be severed where it enters the shift changing housing. Also, The shift changer housing is damaged (see pic) in such a way that the wire there is exposed to the elements. I've never replaced anything cable related, and I was wondering how much it would be at the lbs, especially since there are really two problems here. Thanks in advance! Los (*)... Read more >>
Hiya, I was hoping someone could id a part for me. In the pic below the center cable has a plastic surround (as normal). The surround has a larger end piece. This end piece enters a short plastic tube with a rim that keeps it in place in the holder on the frame. The cable needs 2 of these tubes to hold it to the frame but I only have one. [attachment=1866] (http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/378/img2433640x480.jpg) The bike is a Trek 7.3 FX from 2006/7. Does anyone know the name of this part or where I could obtain one? The gears don't seem to shift well without the part since the c... Read more >>
Hi ALL! I'm tryng to replace and recalibrate my shifters on my 1999 GT Airstream. It has shifters around the handle bars, pix below. I just replaced one cable housing, ran the cable through. The derailer (this is the front big sprocket derailer) goes back and worth now, but won't hold! Just how does this system work? Does the shifter housing hold the tension? If this is true, than I think I'm out of luck! Or...as I lake a second look, to I simply loosen the housing and park it closer to the handle grip, then this creates the friction?? The out of luck thing comes from the thought that the shi... Read more >>
Hi ALL! I just found this site and it's FANTASTIC! I just got a hold of a 1999 GT Airstream. Link below . Picture right here! Well I need both front and rear shifter housings and cables. Were can I get them ? Or what else can I use! The Front Derailleur is a Shimano Altus the rear Derailleur Shimano Alivio . Many thanks!!! Ted [attachment=1560] BikePedia info... Read more >>
Ok so here is the scoop. So I get this month's Bicycling Magazine and wouldn't ya know there is a picture of a Pinarello on the inside cover with all the cables zip tied in front... Well, I'm spastic about certain things and frankly the whole cables not being zip tied to my bike has bugged me. I learned my lesson already with adjusting something that shouldn't have been adjusted (I wont admit tightening the... yeah)... So then I see this add and I think... "Hey if Bicycle Magazine can do it, why can't I?"... So the question is... Is using zip ties to secure the cables to the bike an opt... Read more >>
Hi All!!! New to the forums and I have a quick question. I inherited this bike and was in the process of straightening out the front derailleur and I totally messed up the whole thing. I think my main problem is the barrel adjuster, it really does not seem like it is doing its job. It wont really stay in place. Any info will help and I will put up a picture when I get home later. Thanks!... Read more >>