How To Overhaul Wheel Bearings
Overhaul a hub, replace and grease the wheel bearings, and adjust the cones.
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DownloadThis tutorial will demonstrate how to grease your wheel bearings. For this job you’ll need some rags, waterproof grease, and a 17mm open-end wrench. You’ll also need a 13mm cone wrench for a front hub, and a 15mm cone wrench for a rear hub. When overhauling a hub, you should always replace the ball bearings. Most front hubs need 10 3/16″ bearings per side, while rear hubs usually need 9 1/4″ bearings.
Dis-Assemble Hub
If you’re overhauling the rear hub, you’ll need to remove the cassette or freewheel before you begin. Carefully remove any seals that may be protecting the cone and locknut.
Place the wheel on its side and slide a cone wrench onto the cone flats, and then loosen the left, or non-drive side locknut by turning it counter-clockwise against the cone wrench. Completely un-thread and remove the cone and locknut, and then slide the axle out from the right side of the hub.
Clean Hub Parts
Clean all of the old grease off of the axle and cones and remove all of the bearings from both sides, making sure to count how many you take out. Then clean the inside of the hub and carefully inspect both the cones and the inner bearing races. If there is any damage such as pitting then the cone and/or hub should be replaced.
Grease Hub and Bearings
Apply a generous layer of grease to both of the hub’s bearing races. Then carefully insert all of the new bearings by pushing them down in the grease. When all of the bearings are installed, there should be about half a bearing space left. Cover all of the bearings with a layer of grease and lightly grease the axle threads.
Re-Assemble Hub
Once the bearings are installed on both sides, carefully slide the axle into hub, making sure the bearings stay in place. Thread the left side cone, washer (if any) and locknut all the way on finger tight.
Adjust Cone and Locknut
Now lay the wheel back on its side and place the cone wrench on the cone. Tighten the locknut against the cone and check to make sure there is no play in the hub, and that the wheel spins freely. You may have to loosen the locknut and repeat the procedure many times before it is correct. Quick release mechanisms tighten the cones slightly, so if you have a quick release axle, you’ll have to leave a slight bit of play in the hub.
Re-install any seals and then put the wheel back on your bike. Finally, check the adjustment again by moving the wheel side to side at the rim. Again, there shouldn’t be play in the wheel, and it should spin smoothly.
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Comments & Questions - Help Forums
24 Responses to “How To Overhaul Wheel Bearings”
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Excellent site. I enjoy the work you’re putting in.
So I tried this and have had a little issue. Repacking the bearings went smoothly, but then I discovered that my cones where completely shot. One was cracked all the way around… I though it had a washer inside for a bit. So I really need to replace them. Hopefully the hubs appear to be fine. But it seems like finding proper cones is harder than it looks :/ I’ve done two or three LBS and none were really helpful. The first could only sell me the whole axel assembly and the second was overpriced.. anyway I’d buy either (and actually bought both)… but none come with the dust covers.. Against parktool’s howto I followed one of the mechanic’s advise and removed my old one… but it’s really hard to fit back in… I can’t really bang it cause 1) I don’t want to damage the cones 2) it’s made of sheet metal and it’ll bend. What am I supposed to do?
Thanks in advance Alex
That’s a tricky procedure. I usually lay an open end wrench (that is just big enough to fit around the cone) onto the seal, and then gently and evenly tap it down onto place. Let me know if that technique works for you.
Alex, the bearings are readily available, even online. The cones, and even the solid 5/8″ axles I cannot find. Would you happen to know where I can purchase cones?
Hi Mark,
I can’t find much on 5/8″ axles either. Is it from an old 3-speed hub?
You can order most cone sizes here
I have a old 10 speed road bike that doesn’t have an quick release wheel and I wanted to put a QUICK RELEASE WHEEL. How do you go about changing wheel so I’ll have quick release wheel. I notice that you can buy Quick Release Wheel Skewers can I just add that to the wheel and I’ll have a tires with a quick release wheel?
Thanks
-Alberto
Quick release wheels have a hollow axle, so you’ll either have to replace the axle assembly, or the entire hub/wheel depending on your setup.
Thank you so much for your videos. I’ve just overhauled my wheel bearings for the first time and with great result.
Do you clean your grease gun after use? I guess you could leave the grease in, as it will not harden or anything, but I am afraid, it will leak out and make a mess, while the gun is stored away. What is your take?
Great to hear you overhauled the bearings… awesome!
I usually wipe off the nozzle of my grease gun with a rag, but I always leave the inside as is (unless it runs out of grease and needs refilling).
So I repacked my bearings yesterday and somehow didn’t notice that there is some play in the hub – is it basically a balance between there being play and the cones being too tight for the wheel to spin freely?
Exactly Andrei, it’s a very fine balance that sometimes takes quite a few tries to get right. After adjusting hubs in a shop for many years, I still almost never get it right on the first attempt.
Thanks!
just a tip, when you need to clean the inside of the hub where the bearings go, a q tip (ear cleaner) is perfect for getting all the rest of the old grease out.
Hey brother, First of all thanks for all you do.
My question is that I have a 2006 Specialized Hardrock Sport, I want to overhaul the bearings but I can not find any literature anywhere on what size bearings to use. I have been all over the Specialized web site and through the tech manuals and the only specs I find on the hubs are that they are Joy-Tech, cassette, 36h, ground race double sealed loose ball w/ alloy QR. (whatever all that means).
Anyways I ordered some 1/4 and 3/16 bearings as you state in the tutorial and just see if it work. Do you think I will be ok with those? I mean how “size critical” are they?
Again bro, thanks for all you do.
–Ray
Hobbs, New Mexico
The bearing size is critical. The first thing to do is to find the brand of the hub. Is there any markings or brand name on it anywhere?
Most front hubs need 10 3/16″ bearings per side, while rear hubs usually need 9 1/4″ bearings.
One thing that’s useful for this is a bench vise. I don’t know of any other way to securely hold the axle immoble while you crank the cone in and out until you get that perfect spot of no play and smooth rotation. make sure the side you’re not adjusting is locked down tight, then clamp the locknut on that side in the vise. Gauge the degree of turn on the cone you’re adjusting by watching how the cone wrench points at the spokes. Turn in increments of, say, 1/4 spoke spaces at a time, or whatever fraction works, and you’ll have an idea of how much you’re tightening or loosening. To get an idea of how smooth or tight the rotation is, it’s necessary to keep removing the wheel from the vise and putting it back in. That’s a bit of a pain, but ultimately it’s easier because you get great control over how much you’re moving the cone.
Thanks for the tutorial!! I just repacked my front hub and it feels GREAT!!!
I’ve had this Schwinn Impact for about 20 years and will ride it until one of us breaks! I bought it from one of my Wife’s coworkers that was getting married. I remember the good old days when I had the rear wheel buried in the mud up to its axle… good times.
Now it’s a daily commuter in the warm months.
It really is a fine line between just right and too tight. My front hub had nine bearings though.
Thanks again!
Where can I pick-up that small fine tipped grease gun?
Here you can order the grease gun, and here you can get a tube of grease.
Hey,
Thank-you so much I really appreciated this! My free wheel wasn’t spinning without y peddles turning and this really helped me. Couple questions, are all ball bearing the same or do they vary in size and composition? Also, where do the grease disappear to, isn’t this the point of the seals? Thanks so much for your help.:)
Yes, bearings of course vary in size, and they’re measured in fractions of an inch. They can differ in material, too. I’ve read of trade-offs in corrosion resistance versus wear resistance. I’m not sure you have much choice in that department unless you’re buying huge wholesale lots. They’re also sold in a variety of grades, the better ones being smoother and closer to perfect roundness. Grade 25 is tops.
Seals have to have some seepage, or they wouldn’t work at all. There has to be at least a tiny bit getting through to lubricate the seal itself, otherwise its surface would get torn up. That said, the grease in the bearing race can be replenished if the rest of the hub has a generous helping, too. Even with that, a time will come along when a repacking is needed, a good opportunity to change the bearings, too.
This site is excellent!
I was having trouble refitting the back-wheel mechanism and replacing the bearings for my much loved mountain bike. Having used Google a couple of weeks ago only to find my search was fruitless, I was beginning to lose hope in ever finding a site or video tutorial from an expert that would tell me exactly what I needed to know.
Thanks a lot guys, this video was a great help. I will be recommending this site to friends no doubt.
Good information. But you did not have any info about checking the axle for bends. I use the procedure in Barnett’s Bicycle manual. Without it adjustment of the hub is a trail and error fiasco.
Eric
This site should show the different styles of hubs that are out there and how to overhaul each specific type.
Mine look nothing like the ones in the movie and that makes it very difficult to follow.
Just a suggestion!