34. How to Adjust V-Brakes
Learn how to adjust the brake pads, cable tension and centering on v-brakes (linear pull).
Learn how to adjust the brake pads, cable tension and centering on v-brakes (linear pull).
Today we’ll learn how to adjust v-brakes, which are otherwise known as linear pull brakes. For this job you’ll need a 5mm allen key, a phillips(+) screwdriver, a strip of sandpaper, and an optional cable puller.
The first step is to set up your brake levers. Start by loosening the clamp, and then align them so that they match the angle of your arms when you’re riding. Once the angle is set, tighten the clamp. If you have smaller hands and your levers are hard to reach, you can set them closer by tightening the reach adjustment screw on most levers.
Start by giving the cable some slack. Tighten the lever’s barrel adjuster in all the way. Then pull the protective rubber back and disconnect the brake cable’s quick release mechanism.
Then remove the pads. V-brake pads have two sets of positioning washers on each side of the brake arm. Be careful to watch how the washers are positioned so that you can re-install them correctly.
Inspect your pads. If they are worn past the indicator line, or have metal poking through the surface, you’ll need to replace them. If they look ok, use your sandpaper to re-surface both pads.
Now check your brake arm tension. The brake arms should have good spring tension, which makes them release when you let go of the brake lever. If there isn’t much tension, you may have to increase it on both sides. Undo both bolts one at a time, but don’t remove them completely.
You’ll notice a small piece of metal poking out the backside of the brake. This is the spring, and it slides into one of three holes on your frame or fork. Most brakes work fine in the middle hole. To increase your brake tension, move the spring into the top hole. To decrease the brake tension, move the spring into the bottom hole. Then tighten the mounting bolt.
Now re-install the brake pads, with the washers in the same order as they were before. Align the brake pads so the pad face is flat against the rim. V-brake pads are different from traditional pads in that they don’t require any toe-in. Both the front and rear of the pad should contact the rim at the same time. Because of this, v-brakes will sometimes squeak when applied. If you’ve re-surfaced the pads and they are still noisy, you may have to try a higher quality set of pads.
Take a look from the side to make sure the pad is in line with the rim’s brake surface, and not touching the tire or hanging off the bottom of the rim.
With the pads installed, check the brake arm position. Both arms should be facing straight up and down when the pads are contacting the rim. If they are too wide apart, or two close together, you may have to re-arrange the pad washers.
One set of washers is usually thicker than the other. To correct brakes arms that are too far apart, make sure the smallest set of washers are closest to the pads. To correct brakes arms that are too close together, make sure the largest set of washers are closest to the pads.
Now re-connect the cable and adjust the cable tension on the brake arm by pulling the cable through the pinch bolt and tightening. You’ll have to play with this adjustment until your brakes feel good. I like to have mine set so that the pads hit the rim when my lever is pulled about 1/4 of the way.
Make sure both pads now have equal clearance, and are not rubbing against the rim. Both pads should contact the rim at the same time. If not, you can adjust the centering by tightening or loosening the side adjustment screw with your screwdriver.
thought I was ok mechanically but stumped here, see pics. the caliper on the left in the pic is jammed on the rim, no matter what adjustment I make to the cable or the tensioner at the brake lever I can't get it to move back off the rim when I pull it over to the left more by hand it pulls the right caliper with it, so it can't go too far, just enuf to get pad from being on the rim. tightening the cable or adjusting at the brake lever seems to just make it pushed harder on the rim.... Read more >>
I chronically struggle with brake adjustment. I vaguely understand that I may have to readjust brakes several times before they function correctly, but I don't know how the caliper functions so I waste a lot of time. I spent 20-30 minutes during my last work shift on a single set of rear brakes. No matter how many times I adjusted the cable one pad barely moved, if at all. (I think it actually moved less as time went by.) I eventually gave up and told the owner to take his bicycle to a repair shop. That was a shameful thing for me to have to say; he had just taken it from the store's bi... Read more >>
Hi, I bought a Workman's tricycle from someone and when I got it home and tried it out, I found out it had a loose brake. It is a single speed, and I need to fix or tighten the brake lever. I hope someone can tell me how to tighten the brakes on this trike. http://worksmancycles.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/adulttrikes.html Thank you.... Read more >>
Hey. I just got a new bike and as i was setting it up i pulled on the brake and heard a click and the break handle went loose. I also noticed oil was leaking from the hose at the point where it connects to the reservoir on the handlebar. Have i damaged the brake or does it just need bled? The brakes are Tektro Draco hydraulic disc brakes. PS. Im a bit of a noob at this so please excuse if this is a trivial matter.... Read more >>
Hi, First post, seems like a great forum. I took a spill yesterday and knocked my right brake/shifter and the housing out of alignment with my drop-down handlebar on my Canondale T800. Since impact caused it to shift, I thought I could knock it back into place with a few prodding whacks of a hammer. That does not seem to have any effect however, and I'm worried I will crack the plastic in the housing. I've taken a few photos--any suggestions on what I should do? Thanks!... Read more >>
In maybe 1975, I was given a brand-new Schwinn-style (but not exactly a Schwinn) bike with a Bendix 2-speed hub. My mother had an older Schwinn Hollywood with a similar hub, hers geared a little lower. The old fella who sold new bikes out of his garage told us I got "one of the last 10 2-speeds made in this country." Probably hot air. But I believed this -- at least until I saw just now that 2-speed hubs are now available brand new. When did they start coming out? (Been 20 years since I was a bike mechanic.) And one more question: I've always thought a two-speed would be perfect in a flat cit... Read more >>
Hi, I am a mechanical engineering student in Scotland, and am currently designing and building a land yacht as par of out year 3 project. We are required, for safety reasons, to install brakes. I have chosen v brakes as they can accommodate a wider tyre. But I am wondering, is it possible to make a brake mount from scratch? We were thinking something along the lines of two metal tubes with bores drilled through, and just using bolts and nuts to loosely tighten the v brake arms on. Can this be done, or are we required to purchase a bike fork with v brake mount? Sorry for all the questi... Read more >>
The picture above is not my bicycle, but it is a good enough one to illustrate what I am trying to find out about the inner brake levers part name. What is the name of the pin that goes in the lever to hold it in place. I need to get a new one, my other one fell out somewhere. Any help appreciated.... Read more >>
Hi all, I am looking to upgrade my old road bike to have an internally-geared 5- or 7-speed hub and bullhorn handlebars. Doing some research, it seems like time trial brakes like these are the best for bullhorns, because they put the levers nicely under your hands. However, I also need a shifter, and the bar-end thumbie shifters seem the most convenient. However, it seem really hard to find a setup that can hold both brakes and shifters at the ends of bullhorns! The nicest setup I've seen online is this (scroll down), which is exactly what I was imagining having. However, I can't find any d... Read more >>
i took the brake lever apart the one with the spring in it, it was the right side that controls the rear brake, i cant get it back together and put the spring tension back together, can anyone help me. Thanks... Read more >>
Does anyone have any experience replacing cantilever brakes with linear pull units? I have an older mountain bike that I want to update to more current components and I'm wondering how feasible it is to put new linear pull brakes on in place of the original cantilever ones. Also, I was once told that if a bike has linear pull brakes it is not possible to mount fenders. I can see that maybe some fenders can't be mounted, but not any fenders?... Read more >>
[attachment=2970] HARO BMX frame. One of the rear V-brake axles has broken off. Soaked with oil and heated, then tried to extract it with an easy-out, but no joy. Does the axle thread into the frame mount? HELP? Sorry for bad photo. Thanks. Chris.... Read more >>
I can't find a clear answer online. Thanks!... Read more >>
Hello, I bought these new brakes and levers off eBay for an old racer that's parts were quite worn out and borderline dangerous. I'm a complete bike newbie however and am stumped as to how these levers attach to the handlebars. My thoughts so far are that I need another small piece to fit them to the handlebars but the item description said that they'd fit on "MOST STANDARD TOURER, TRADITIONAL, SHOPPER AND KIDS BIKES" making me think that I should have everything I need. Here are pictures of the levers: http://imgur.com/jUKE5&q3AgX#0 Here's the item's ebay page: http://bit.ly/ylZ4u... Read more >>
Hi everyone, I am have been messing on with this for four hours now and I really dont know where I am going wrong. My partner bought our son a bike for Christmas and I am having so much trouble with the rear brake. The rear brake looks to be the same or at least very similar as this one here: The part I am having trouble with is figuring out which way the spring is supposed to go, on the front brake the spring slot is horizontal and the rear one seems to want to be diagonal on the right, see this picture of what I mean, this is the bike: [attachment=2921] Am I able to rotate the spr... Read more >>