Today we’ll learn how to adjust v-brakes, which are otherwise known as linear pull brakes. For this job you’ll need a 5mm allen key, a phillips(+) screwdriver, a strip of sandpaper, and an optional cable puller.
Align Brake Levers
The first step is to set up your brake levers. Start by loosening the clamp, and then align them so that they match the angle of your arms when you’re riding. Once the angle is set, tighten the clamp. If you have smaller hands and your levers are hard to reach, you can set them closer by tightening the reach adjustment screw on most levers.
Remove & Inspect Brake Pads
Start by giving the cable some slack. Tighten the lever’s barrel adjuster in all the way. Then pull the protective rubber back and disconnect the brake cable’s quick release mechanism.
Then remove the pads. V-brake pads have two sets of positioning washers on each side of the brake arm. Be careful to watch how the washers are positioned so that you can re-install them correctly.
Inspect your pads. If they are worn past the indicator line, or have metal poking through the surface, you’ll need to replace them. If they look ok, use your sandpaper to re-surface both pads.
Adjust Brake Arm Tension
Now check your brake arm tension. The brake arms should have good spring tension, which makes them release when you let go of the brake lever. If there isn’t much tension, you may have to increase it on both sides. Undo both bolts one at a time, but don’t remove them completely.
You’ll notice a small piece of metal poking out the backside of the brake. This is the spring, and it slides into one of three holes on your frame or fork. Most brakes work fine in the middle hole. To increase your brake tension, move the spring into the top hole. To decrease the brake tension, move the spring into the bottom hole. Then tighten the mounting bolt.
Install & Align Brake Pads
Now re-install the brake pads, with the washers in the same order as they were before. Align the brake pads so the pad face is flat against the rim. V-brake pads are different from traditional pads in that they don’t require any toe-in. Both the front and rear of the pad should contact the rim at the same time. Because of this, v-brakes will sometimes squeak when applied. If you’ve re-surfaced the pads and they are still noisy, you may have to try a higher quality set of pads.
Take a look from the side to make sure the pad is in line with the rim’s brake surface, and not touching the tire or hanging off the bottom of the rim.
Align Brake Arms
With the pads installed, check the brake arm position. Both arms should be facing straight up and down when the pads are contacting the rim. If they are too wide apart, or two close together, you may have to re-arrange the pad washers.
One set of washers is usually thicker than the other. To correct brakes arms that are too far apart, make sure the smallest set of washers are closest to the pads. To correct brakes arms that are too close together, make sure the largest set of washers are closest to the pads.
Adjust Cable Tension
Now re-connect the cable and adjust the cable tension on the brake arm by pulling the cable through the pinch bolt and tightening. You’ll have to play with this adjustment until your brakes feel good. I like to have mine set so that the pads hit the rim when my lever is pulled about 1/4 of the way.
Brake Arm Centering
Make sure both pads now have equal clearance, and are not rubbing against the rim. Both pads should contact the rim at the same time. If not, you can adjust the centering by tightening or loosening the side adjustment screw with your screwdriver.
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The tutorial I have been eagerly awaiting! Many thanks for this superb quality lesson on v-brake maintenance. Once again, you have provided this DIY’er with another invaluable tool.
-phil
G’day
I also reflect Phil’s comments. Well done on the tutorial and a big thanks.
Andrew
Thanks for the tutoriall!
I was having a problem getting the front v-brake adjusted on a bike a bought online.
I googled “v-brake adjustment bikes” and came up with your tutorial that made the whole thing crystal clear.
All I needed to do was turn the little screw on the side that wouldn’t disengage! I would have never figured that out.
Thanks again.
Thank you very much for the tutorial! I’ve been messing with my brakes for YEARS and just when I think I got it right I don’t. This lesson was extremely helpful,
I’m having trouble with this. The left brake pad is rubbing against the rim at all times. if I pull it off, it’s fine, but the first time I brake, it goes right back. I tried adjusting the centering screw, but again, once I pull the brake, it goes right back to rubbing.
Hmmm, sounds frustrating. Check if the pad is touching the tire when it hits the rim, sometimes that slight contact will cause it to stick. Otherwise there is a problem with the spring tension. Try taking the brake arm off to clean the post, spring and insides. Grease the post and reassemble.
I’ll give that a try. Thanks Alex!
Thanks for the clear and informative tutorial! I had no idea about the 3 spring adjustment slots to increase/decrease spring tension. Thanks again for the tips!
Thanks for the great tutorial.
Also, thanks for the advice Alex. I have been having the same problem as Tony with the centering screws only keeping the brake pad off the rim for a brief period. I’ll try taking it apart and cleaning it up.
I was having the same problem as Tony, with the left side always stuck on the rim… for me changing the brake arm tension and centering solved the problem.
I think this is a great site, what I would like to see is more troubleshooting procedures from the experts….
ie: rather than just showing how to adjust components, walk through some of the most common issues and what part of the component is responsible for fixing the issue.
Thanks from the newb.
Fanatastic, your whole site is a great resource, thanks for your time and knowledge
Great site, but you talk too quickly and the adjustments you do go too fast for me (as a complete beginner). I have to watch it over and over in order to understand. Otherwise I’m sure I’ll learn a lot.
Great instructional videos you have!!!
What is wrong with giving the brake pad a little gap (a Dime) on the front of the pad, so they don’t make flush contact and squeak? I read that in mountain bike magazine and have been doing that for 18 years and my brakes don’t squeak? just wanted you expertise…
Most styles of brakes do require toe-in. However, most direct-pull cantilevers (v-brakes) use asymmetrical shoes (longer end faces the rear) that are designed to be set with no toe in.
Need help! My brakes are fine except for my right hand (rear) hand lever. When I pull it, it usually ends up against the handle bar although it brakes well. My front is just fine, about 1/4 pull before it grabs my wheels, but how can I adjust my rear brake hand lever to make it tighter?
Thanks again!
To make your lever tighter, you’ll have to tighten your cable tension as explained in the above video at about 2:40.