30. How to Overhaul A Bottom Bracket
How to disassemble, re-grease, reassemble and adjust a cup and cone bottom bracket.
How to disassemble, re-grease, reassemble and adjust a cup and cone bottom bracket.
Today we’ll learn how to overhaul and re-grease an adjustable bottom bracket. To remove the cranks you’ll need a crank puller, a 17mm open end wrench and a large adjustable wrench. To overhaul the bottom bracket you’ll need a bottom bracket wrench or a pin spanner, a hooked lock ring wrench, and a 36mm wrench. For re-greasing the bearings you’ll need some cleaning solvent and waterproof grease, a rag, a toothbrush and a small container to clean the bearing cages.
Begin by removing the cranks. Watch the cotterless crank removal tutorial for a more detailed procedure. Once the cranks are removed, loosen and remove the lock ring on the non-drive or left side of the bike by turning counter-clockwise. Once the lockring is removed you should be able to easily loosen and un-thread the bearing race using either a pin spanner or a bottom bracket wrench.
Now pull the spindle and both bearing cages out of the frame. It’s important to remember which way the spindle came out, as they are directional. The drive side usually has a longer distance from the bearing race to the end of the threads. Wipe off the bearing cages, drop them into the solvent, and let them soak while you use your rag to clean the spindle and both outer bearing races.
Tighten the drive-side bearing race by turning it counter-clockwise with your 36mm wrench. Unless you are replacing the bottom bracket, there is no need to remove it.
Shine a flashlight into your bottom bracket shell to inspect the bearing race for pitting and wear. Inspect your other bearing race and then carefully inspect the spindle. Most wear occurs on the spindle’s bearing races. If you see pitting here you should take it to your local bike shop for a replacement.
Now clean both bearing cages with a toothbrush and solvent, and then set them aside to air-dry. These should also be replaced if they are worn or have bent cages.
Apply a layer of grease on both bearing races and cages. A grease gun makes it easy to squirt grease inside the gaps between the bearings. Then place the bearing cages into both races. The rounded side of the cage should be facing down into the bearing race. Seal them in with another layer of grease.
Now insert the spindle the same way you removed it. Wipe off any excess grease that comes out on the spindle. Grease the threads inside the bottom bracket shell, and then slide the outer race and bearing cage onto the spindle. Thread it on all the way clockwise but don’t tighten it. Again you’ll need to wipe off excess grease.
Thread on the lock ring finger-tight. Before adjusting the bottom bracket, first install the drive-side crank arm and tighten it as shown in the crank installation tutorial. This will help us make a proper adjustment. Now hold the inner race firmly with your wrench or spanner and tighten the lock ring. When properly adjusted the spindle should spin smoothly. If it doesn’t, you’ll have to loosen the lock ring, back off the inner race a little bit, and then tighten it again.
Check for play by placing the crank arm close the frame and pushing and pulling it against the frame. There should be no movement. If it feels loose, you’ll have to loosen the lock ring, tighten the inner race a little bit, and then tighten the lock ring again. When the adjustment is correct, install and tighten the left crank arm and you’re done!
I am replacing my old BB with a Shimano UN26 and can't work out how to tighten the plastic cup on the left side. My tool (UN54) works fine on the chain side but not on the left. I was told at the shop that I just needed to tap the tool to make it fit the plastic cup but after destroying one plastic cup, I am at a loss. Do I need to purchase a specific tool for a plastic cup? I read that the UN26 now comes with an alloy cup that replaced the plastic version.... Read more >>
Hi just wanted to know which tools would be required to take out the bottom bracket I've attached a pic for reference. From what I can tell a crank puller and hex key obviously and a lockring spanner I'm not sure if theres a special tool required after this. Thanks for any help. [attachment=3187]... Read more >>
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trying to replace the bb and cottered cranks on an old murray road bike (early-mid 80s is my best guess on date) - i want to replace them with modern parts (square-taper spindle and cranks). took the bb off and measured it, and it's something like 78 x 149mm (78mm being the length from outside of one cup to the other, 149 being length of the spindle). this seems really weird... am i measuring it wrong? if it's right, can i use a normal 68 x whatever bottom bracket (i'd assume not, but)? how do i size it? or do i have to track down a bb of the same size? thanks!... Read more >>
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hello all, I bought a Schwinn Tourist at Target a few months back and want to replace the bottom bracket. It is the cup/cone/bearing type. In short, can I use a sealed bottom bracket or must I stay with the cup/cone and bearing type? It is 68 X 127. I'm fairly certain (but not sure) that the TPI is 24. The spindle is square taper. I researched the spindle on the Sheldon Brown site (it is 3S) and it is actually 125 mm wide, but the "symmetrical equivalent" per his charts is 127. I was looking at the shimano BB-UN55 and figured that one would fit based on my best evaluations. I'm also k... Read more >>