30. How to Overhaul A Bottom Bracket
How to disassemble, re-grease, reassemble and adjust a cup and cone bottom bracket.
Today we'll learn how to overhaul and re-grease an adjustable bottom bracket. To remove the cranks you'll need a crank puller, a 17mm open end wrench and a large adjustable wrench. To overhaul the bottom bracket you'll need a bottom bracket wrench or a pin spanner, a hooked lock ring wrench, and a 36mm wrench. For re-greasing the bearings you'll need some cleaning solvent and waterproof grease, a rag, a toothbrush and a small container to clean the bearing cages.
Begin by removing the cranks. Watch the cotterless crank removal tutorial for a more detailed procedure. Once the cranks are removed, loosen and remove the lock ring on the non-drive or left side of the bike by turning counter-clockwise. Once the lockring is removed you should be able to easily loosen and un-thread the bearing race using either a pin spanner or a bottom bracket wrench.
Now pull the spindle and both bearing cages out of the frame. It's important to remember which way the spindle came out, as they are directional. The drive side usually has a longer distance from the bearing race to the end of the threads. Wipe off the bearing cages, drop them into the solvent, and let them soak while you use your rag to clean the spindle and both outer bearing races.
Tighten the drive-side bearing race by turning it counter-clockwise with your 36mm wrench. Unless you are replacing the bottom bracket, there is no need to remove it.
Shine a flashlight into your bottom bracket shell to inspect the bearing race for pitting and wear. Inspect your other bearing race and then carefully inspect the spindle. Most wear occurs on the spindle's bearing races. If you see pitting here you should take it to your local bike shop for a replacement.
Now clean both bearing cages with a toothbrush and solvent, and then set them aside to air-dry. These should also be replaced if they are worn or have bent cages.
Apply a layer of grease on both bearing races and cages. A grease gun makes it easy to squirt grease inside the gaps between the bearings. Then place the bearing cages into both races. The rounded side of the cage should be facing down into the bearing race. Seal them in with another layer of grease.
Now insert the spindle the same way you removed it. Wipe off any excess grease that comes out on the spindle. Grease the threads inside the bottom bracket shell, and then slide the outer race and bearing cage onto the spindle. Thread it on all the way clockwise but don't tighten it. Again you’ll need to wipe off excess grease.
Thread on the lock ring finger-tight. Before adjusting the bottom bracket, first install the drive-side crank arm and tighten it as shown in the crank installation tutorial. This will help us make a proper adjustment. Now hold the inner race firmly with your wrench or spanner and tighten the lock ring. When properly adjusted the spindle should spin smoothly. If it doesn't, you'll have to loosen the lock ring, back off the inner race a little bit, and then tighten it again.
Check for play by placing the crank arm close the frame and pushing and pulling it against the frame. There should be no movement. If it feels loose, you'll have to loosen the lock ring, tighten the inner race a little bit, and then tighten the lock ring again. When the adjustment is correct, install and tighten the left crank arm and you're done!
I've read a bunch of tutorials (including the sticky here) and the only part i'm unsure of is how thoroughly one must clean out all the old grease before regreasing and reassembling.
I've wiped everything down and it is reasonably clean. Wondering if that bit of grease stuck in the bearing ring will contaminate and ruin the new grease or if a bit of mixing doesn't matter and the cleaning step is just mentioned out of completeness?
And a secondary question would be what product to use to clean them. i don't currently have access to any solvents so i'd be buying so... Read more >>
Has anybody else ever worked with this? I have installed the bearings which went into the frame by hand and are straight, but whenever I get to tightening the cranks it seems to bind up and there is no way that I will be able to get to the recommended torque level of 48nm. The cranks have the correct order of wavy washer then seal on the drive side and just the seal on the non drive side. The amount of torque I can get it to is about 15nm and there is no play at all.... Read more >>
Good afternoon internet hive mind. A friend has inherited a bike that has a wobbly bit somewhere inside the bottom bracket. I'm taking bits from old bikes to cannibalise into a new one to make it rideable and to be honest the whole thing is a great learning experience for me anyway, but I've hit a problem. In the past I've removed the bottom bracket with the correct tools, then to remove the bit that contains the ball bearings I just use an adjustable wrench to unscrew it. On this bike it isn't nice and hexagonal shaped to allow a wrench to grip properly, it keeps sliding off. It looks like so... Read more >>
Just replaced my bb sealed unit. Taken it for a test ride and it seems really stiff any suggestions to cause. Doing a long charity bike ride Sunday and need to sort it before then
Any advice great fully received... Read more >>
I had some problems on my MTB suntour BB recently, first it made some noise, than it started wobbling, so I decided to replace it. It is a 68/122.5 sealed square tapered BB, so I bought the same thing just a Shimano.
I tried to remove the non drive side, no luck it is stuck, I tried to remove the drive side and it came off very easily, the sealed BB was open, the ballbearings rolled out and the plastic ring that holds the ballbearings in pl... Read more >>
Hello all, I hope you can help me out here, I have a Jamis Beatnik single speed bike 2015
the cranks have a lot of play in them. I have tried tightening the lockring on the NDS as it was quite loose.
but it makes no difference at all. Do I need a new BB I was thinking of a shimano sealed cartridge type but
the actual spindle size of my bb 116mm and shimano don't do that size only 115mm or 118mm can you help?
also do I need to take of the cranks to tighten it properly?
many thanks if you can help?... Read more >>
Her I have a shimano BB - UN52 68 BC 1.37 x 24
The frame is threaded. I was just wondering if I have too stick with square taperd or can I upgrade ? Also what are they key numbers in that description for size etc. ?
... Read more >>
It seems like there's no spindle in bottom bracket, because when I try to take off the crankset with removal tool, then there is nothing against the bolt to push and you can see hole through the bottom bracket. Do you understand me? How should I take off crankset if there's nothing I can push against?... Read more >>
Ello. I was just wondering if anybody knows what the torque settings for the cups and crank arms are on this? A piece of paper within the packaging states to consult the manual, but there isn't one, not even online (that I can find).
Also, which way does the cartridge fit onto the bike? As you can see in the image below it says.#
Does that mean that the side without the metal threads goes to ... Read more >>
My old cheap 2003 Huffy bike has this BB:
Since I actually enjoy riding this cheap "beater", I plan to do some upgrades. I want to remove this BB and convert to a square taper BB (because I am now familiar with SqT BB's, having replaced two of them on other bikes), and I will install a new crankset compatible with the new SqT BB.
-... Read more >>
Hi, I have a normal mountain bike bought from a department store about a year ago, I've been hearing a lot of creaking noise recently and found out that the spindle is wobbling a great deal ( not just the crank arms ).
After watching some videos, I discovered that the remedy seems to be simply adjusting the hex cup on the non-drive side, since I recognize it to be a ball & bearing bottom bracket.
I don't even need to take off the crank arm, my wrench fits in the gap between as you can see from the picture.
Read more >>
Has anyone tries the bolt and locknut method for removing the left side bottom bracket bearing race cup. hope I got that right? i was able to remove the right side. the bracket is the spline wrench type like a free wheel but the tool fits in only 1/8 of a inch.
...... method is to get a 2" bolt, 5/8th diameter, and about 14 lock washers, a large flat washer and a nut to fit the bolt. then you put the bolt with all the lock washer slid onto it and insert it through the right side of the bottom bracket and out the middle of the left frozen bearing race cup I want to remove. them y... Read more >>
2006 Gary Fisher Piranha BS:6102 crank is a fc-m410
Hi i am new here and need a lil help with my bike i just brought to ride to work on, so when i ride i can feel that the crank bearings need replacing or bottom bracket i am not a bike mechanic, and i am struggling to find what bottom bracket i need to fix this issue, any help will be much appreciated thanks for your time and reading,
Adam.... Read more >>
This is about a bitchy seized and insisting bottom bracket. It is from a 85 german hercules bike and the BB is the standard german F.A.G by that times. http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Innenlager#mediaviewer/File:Fag-g.jpg well in my case both plastic sides are broken after trying to remove it. I have the appropriate tool but the BB was seized so it's jammed and broken in there. After reading some forums I got a soldering tool to melt the plastic. It works. The bearings are e... Read more >>
Hi. I am trying to renovate a Viscount Aerospace and am having difficulty with the bottom bracket. The shell is normal 68mm, but has pressed in 35MM bearings (not BB30) and a 119 mm spindle that (obviously) passes through these bearings.
Bearings are easy to find, less so the spindle! The spindle has been damaged (not by me) and is useless. I have tried all the places I know to find a spindle, but cannot locate. So am toying with the idea of fitting a sealed bottom bracket (the damaged thread, repair type, as the shell is not threaded and too thin to try and thread). Has any... Read more >>