9. How to Replace Cotterless Crank Arms
Crank removal and installation procedure on a square-spindle, sealed bottom bracket.
This tutorial will demonstrate how to remove and install square-spindled crank arms. I’ve based this tutorial on cranks attached to a sealed cartridge bottom bracket. I’ll cover the loose-bearing style in a future tutorial.
To remove the bolt, you’ll need either an 8mm allen key or 14mm socket wrench. To remove the crank arms, you’ll need a crank puller, a 16mm open-end wrench, and an adjustable wrench. If possible, a torque wrench should also be used for tightening.
In order to safely remove the right side, you’ll have to shift the front derailleur onto the smallest chainring, and then carefully remove the chain and rest it on the bottom bracket, so that it doesn’t interfere with the crank arm removal.
Using the crank arm for leverage, loosen and remove the tightening bolt with your allen key or 14mm socket wrench. Be careful not to skin your knuckles on the chainring teeth.
Before using the crank puller, make sure it is fully extended so that the internal driver does not extend past the external threads.
Note: If crank threads are damaged, there are a few solutions at Park Tools.
Carefully thread the external threads of the crank puller clockwise into the crank arm. Avoid cross-threading, which will damage the crank and prevent future removal.
Once the crank puller is fully threaded, place the adjustable wrench on the external flats and turn the internal driver clockwise until it stops. Turn the driver clockwise using a 16mm wrench, until the crank arm pulls free of the spindle. Repeat the same process to remove the left crank arm.
Before re-installing the cranks wipe both the square spindle and the crank’s spindle fitting to make sure there is no dirt or grease on either surface.
Now slide the right crank’s spindle fitting onto the spindle. Before installing the bolts, grease under the head and along the threads of both bolts. Thread the bolt all the way into the spindle threads and torque the bolt to about 35 foot-pounds, or 420 inch-pounds.
Set the chain back on the chainring and repeat the same installation procedure on the left side, making sure the crank arm is pointing opposite the right side.
my first post on here
Was just given a carrera subway 2, which needs crank replacing. The thread on the crank that holds the pedal is worn and can keep the pedal on. So, I need to replace it. When I looked at it, I notice that the bolt that holds the crank to the bottom bracket is actually not a normal bold, but an Allen Wrench Hex key one. So, my question is if the procedure for removing and replacing the crank wil be same as with other ... Read more >>
This is my first post. I did read a lot of the forums when deciding on which bike to buy. I decided on the Vitus Vee 1. Now it has just arrived and I already need some advice from the experts as I have very little knowledge.
I am having problems with the right hand pedal. It screws in a little then stops. When I looked more closely it seems there is a problem with both the pedal and the crack arm threads.
The pedals threads are painted black but there is a part that is silver, showing the metal. So I would expect this means that it is damaged. I... Read more >>
Good evening all.
I have a few sets of one piece cranks, all the same brand, that the sprocket tab (?) has broken off of. I do not have the tabs as they both are from 1985. Does anyone make replacement tabs that can be welded to the cranks so they can be used again? Other than the tabs missing they are in terrific shape and are the stock cranks for my bike.
Any help or info is appreciated.
Thanks... Read more >>
I'm getting confused about BB length, type and all the specs involved in selecting a crank set. All I know for sure, is that I have a 2009 Cannondale F5 that has a stock FSA CK-306TTT crankset, 22/32/44 (specs HERE) .
Item Number / Model Name
BB-8420 / Power Driver BB(PD) for CK-306,
BB Shell 68mm including E-type / 73mm English (BC1.37”)
Additional FSA info Read more >>
I just need a little clarification on the torque specs in the Parks repair manual. In the torque specifications for Shimano crank bolts they give a broad range of torque values(305 inch pds - 390 inch pds).
-How do you know what to tighten the bolt to??
-Should you go to the lowest, middle or the highest torque value??
-If the cranks don't get tight enough, you can end up with a wallered out crank that will never stay tight, right??
-If you go too tight you might split the crank, right??
Sorry for all the ??'s... Read more >>
My 1-speed crank need replacing and currently I have a 122mm bottom bracket with it. Ive seen a cheapie 1-speed crank on Ebay for around £15. Would the same 122mm bottom bracket definitely fit this new crank? Or is it the case that all cranks are made differently and might need a shorter or longer bottom bracket?
Thank you... Read more >>
I have a Fuji 1.7c roadbike with the threads stripped out of the right crank arm. Cranks are Fuji branded square taper 172.5mm length and 50/34t chainrings. I found on Ebay FSA VERO ROAD CRANKS CRANKSET 172.5MM 50-34 COMPACT crank arms for around $60.
All of the numbers I can see match up.. Is it safe to say they will bolt up to my bb and line up with my derailleur or is there anything else I need to consider?
I've also found a Nashbar isis CR2 compact crank set for $50 and a isis bb by Nashbar for $20. Would that be a better option for around the sa... Read more >>
First of all, sorry if I need a bit of explaining - first bike I've owned since I was a kid and I've never done repairs. The other day I was biking to work when I took a stroke forward on the right and the pedal just slipped down. The pedals are now at similar levels (instead of opposite as they should be), making my bike unbikeable, sadly.
I have no idea what the problem is, but there were a few symptoms (I think) before this happened. There's been a clicking noise for a while whenever I take a stroke forward, and the other day I had a bit of a wipe out. ... Read more >>
My MTB has a riveted triple ring chainset/crankset and I need to replace it. It is a Suntour SR 180 XR with 24/34/42 teeth. My bike is 21 speed.
1 : Is it in any way feasible to drill out the rivets on the chain rings and replace with discrete chain rings?
2: I have looked online to see what is available in cranksets. The specs of some products indicate that they are suitable for 9 speed. So does the crankset have to match the rear sprockets? Does this have something to do with chain ring spacing?... Read more >>
Need some 1/2inch clipless pedals for a single speed project. Any ideas?... Read more >>
I want to disassemble and rebuild a set of crank brothers pedals. What sort of tool is necessary? I presume a tube spanner would be necessary and the nut looks about 9mm?... Read more >>
I got a bike about a week ago for $15. I was going to use it for parts (for another bike I have), but after examination (and because the rims were the wrong size), I've decided to repair it instead.
Apparently, this specific model crank set has the crank arms separate from the gear assembly. And the left crank arm had stripped out the thread and square peg which it had been fastened to. The entire rest of the bike is in excellent condition, though I'm planning to replace the brake pads.
My idea is to drill a hole through the pe... Read more >>
This is a vintage Raleigh Spirit which i found in a dumpster. The wheels were flat ( I thought they were junk but I guess they're in great almost new condition) the rear break mechanism was missing and the rear break wire was rus[attachment=4548][attachment=4549]ted off. I fix these things and I few other small things. I have the fenders which I have yet to install. My issue is with the pedals, which were loose. I tightened them but they worked loose and after doing this twice, the bolt on the right crank completely broke off with t... Read more >>
Hi, just bought a road bike second hand and needed to change the pedals as I don't have the clip in shoes. I can't for the life of get the right Hand pedal out assume the threads have crossed. S tbeasy to resolve I assume a bike shop can drill out but worried it will damage the existing threads.... Read more >>
Hello to all. We just got those folding bikes and they are great. We love them. Thing is my left pedal clicks now and I can feel the vibration right into the middle of my foot which is quite irritating.The bikes are brand new but bought from a couple that never rode them. Just bought them on a whim. They had them hanging in their garage for two years without using them.
Any help would be appreciated.Thanks
Elle... Read more >>