9. How to Replace Cotterless Crank Arms
Crank removal and installation procedure on a square-spindle, sealed bottom bracket.
This tutorial will demonstrate how to remove and install square-spindled crank arms. I've based this tutorial on cranks attached to a sealed cartridge bottom bracket. I’ll cover the loose-bearing style in a future tutorial.
To remove the bolt, you'll need either an 8mm allen key or 14mm socket wrench. To remove the crank arms, you’ll need a crank puller, a 16mm open-end wrench, and an adjustable wrench. If possible, a torque wrench should also be used for tightening.
In order to safely remove the right side, you'll have to shift the front derailleur onto the smallest chainring, and then carefully remove the chain and rest it on the bottom bracket, so that it doesn't interfere with the crank arm removal.
Using the crank arm for leverage, loosen and remove the tightening bolt with your allen key or 14mm socket wrench. Be careful not to skin your knuckles on the chainring teeth.
Before using the crank puller, make sure it is fully extended so that the internal driver does not extend past the external threads.
Note: If crank threads are damaged, there are a few solutions at Park Tools.
Carefully thread the external threads of the crank puller clockwise into the crank arm. Avoid cross-threading, which will damage the crank and prevent future removal.
Once the crank puller is fully threaded, place the adjustable wrench on the external flats and turn the internal driver clockwise until it stops. Turn the driver clockwise using a 16mm wrench, until the crank arm pulls free of the spindle. Repeat the same process to remove the left crank arm.
Before re-installing the cranks wipe both the square spindle and the crank's spindle fitting to make sure there is no dirt or grease on either surface.
Now slide the right crank's spindle fitting onto the spindle. Before installing the bolts, grease under the head and along the threads of both bolts. Thread the bolt all the way into the spindle threads and torque the bolt to about 35 foot-pounds, or 420 inch-pounds.
Set the chain back on the chainring and repeat the same installation procedure on the left side, making sure the crank arm is pointing opposite the right side.
Was just wandering...
Some of my bikes came with pedal washers and some do not have pedal washers. What I'm talking about is the washer that fits between the crank and where the pedal threads on.
Are they needed? or not?
Thanks... Read more >>
My bike has been damaged. The crankset is curved now.
From the information I have found it is Suntour XCC 48/38/28 ( Read more >>
I have a bike that I'm doing up as a project and I need to replace the bottom bracket (square taper). Since the front chainring (single, 46 teeth) is pretty badly worn I was going to take the opportunity and replace that as well. But what to get as replacement?
At the back I've got a 6-speed freewheel with a chain line of 38 mm. The bike is nothing special, it's more for fun and the learning experience (my first project..), so I'd like to keep the costs down. I was looking at some budget cranksets on ebay but most of them don't specify what kind of bottom brac... Read more >>
I have bought a new (shimano) crankset (I believe it is called a diamond crank) for my MTB. I've installed it myself (which is probably the problem :-p), rode with it a couple hundred KMs and all of a sudden the non drive side crank becomes wobbly and after a couple of meters the screw that holds it unscrews and falls off.
I tried to tighten it really hard, I applied loctite at the end of the screw, but nothing helped.
On my last ride, the crank started to creak before it became loose. I think the screw cap is really tight and that is what's creaking and that is what unscrews the s... Read more >>
Ironhorse Maverick 3.0, what could be wrong. It was just fine yesterday went out for a ride today not even out of the parking lot crank became stiff still rotates both ways no sound like it's the bearings gone. Is it just dry and needs to be greased or something... Read more >>
This is a cheap and rusty old bike, but it's one my son has really enjoyed. I can't figure out what broke off that would make the crank area loose. If anyone could identify what broke or what part fell off or what the issue could be, I'd be most appreciative. Thanks!
http://imageshack.com/a/img537/7691/g7GRKo.jpg... Read more >>
A few weeks ago I replaced the broken pedals on my mountain bike with cheap $8 plastic pedals from Wal-Mart. Yesterday I was riding the bike and all of a sudden my pedal fell off. Upon closer inspection, I found the pedal AND the hole where the pedal screws into the crank arm is both stripped. What can I do?... Read more >>
I bought a next px6.0 26in mens mountain bike from walmart. The bearings need to be replace and i don't have the crank puller and don't know what the size is for the bearings can any one help me.... Read more >>
Ok so long story short ive been trying to remove a pedal for a while now. Never have been able to. Today i decided to try an idea from a family member....heat the metal, then try to loosen it. And when i did, THIS happened. And I STILL can't get the mofo unscrewed. Any ideas?
... Read more >>
My iClic 2 pedals don't hold my cleats solidly. Are there any adjustments that can be made to this pedal? I just replaced my cleats and it made no difference. Any suggestions would be appreciated.... Read more >>
Ive been getting a clicking noise coming from the crankset on each revolution (doesnt seem to be the pedals).... Should I start by regreasing the chainring bolts? (bike's only 2 summers old).... or should I be going as far as taking apart the crankset and take out the bottom bracket?... Read more >>
I have a circa 1988 crankset - Shimano FC-M730.
I cannot find a puller/remover for it (have spent $70 so far).
Can anyone help me out finding the correct remover?
Thanks.... Read more >>
Hello I've just registered and would like some help.
I have had a knee replacement and now only have 90 degrees of bend
I have a shorter crank and have raised the seat as high as I can but still
find that I need to pedal with my heel to be able to achieve full rotation.
Now I have heard of something like an articulated crank which hinges in the middle
and when in use full power is obtained when the pedal is between 2 o'clock and 5
if that makes sense. I wonder if anyone else has any ideas about this problem
IAN... Read more >>
I bought a mountain bike with a seized suntour free wheel which I changed our for a 7 cluster Shimano. When I went to set up the front deraileur I notice the teeth were badly worn. So I pulled the 3 sprocket crank set off. it is a shimano crank set but has no stamp on it other then a sticker biopace SG for narrow chains only. It is a regular mens mountain bike. The only markings are shimano and Selkirk on the bike. the big sprocket has 48 teeth. Does anyone know what a common, good inexpensive crankset I could buy on line to replace this?... Read more >>
Hello everyone. I'm new to here so what I'm going to ask might be stupid. I'm trying to fix a bike I inherited but I'll need to change wheels and probably crankset as well. If somebody could have a look and let me know if be really grateful. Also the front wheel's hub is 100mm but my fork's 90mm. I read on other forum it should be ok to stretch the fork to fit the hub in. Is that true? Thanks a lot and have a nice day!
26 x 1 3/8 (590 RIM) SINGLE SPEED WHEEL SET COMPLETE FOR TRADITIONAL TOWN BIKE
26 x 1 3/8 (590 x 19) ALLOY RIMS
AL... Read more >>