9. How to Replace Cotterless Crank Arms
Crank removal and installation procedure on a square-spindle, sealed bottom bracket.
This tutorial will demonstrate how to remove and install square-spindled crank arms. I’ve based this tutorial on cranks attached to a sealed cartridge bottom bracket. I’ll cover the loose-bearing style in a future tutorial.
To remove the bolt, you’ll need either an 8mm allen key or 14mm socket wrench. To remove the crank arms, you’ll need a crank puller, a 16mm open-end wrench, and an adjustable wrench. If possible, a torque wrench should also be used for tightening.
In order to safely remove the right side, you’ll have to shift the front derailleur onto the smallest chainring, and then carefully remove the chain and rest it on the bottom bracket, so that it doesn’t interfere with the crank arm removal.
Using the crank arm for leverage, loosen and remove the tightening bolt with your allen key or 14mm socket wrench. Be careful not to skin your knuckles on the chainring teeth.
Before using the crank puller, make sure it is fully extended so that the internal driver does not extend past the external threads.
Note: If crank threads are damaged, there are a few solutions at Park Tools.
Carefully thread the external threads of the crank puller clockwise into the crank arm. Avoid cross-threading, which will damage the crank and prevent future removal.
Once the crank puller is fully threaded, place the adjustable wrench on the external flats and turn the internal driver clockwise until it stops. Turn the driver clockwise using a 16mm wrench, until the crank arm pulls free of the spindle. Repeat the same process to remove the left crank arm.
Before re-installing the cranks wipe both the square spindle and the crank’s spindle fitting to make sure there is no dirt or grease on either surface.
Now slide the right crank’s spindle fitting onto the spindle. Before installing the bolts, grease under the head and along the threads of both bolts. Thread the bolt all the way into the spindle threads and torque the bolt to about 35 foot-pounds, or 420 inch-pounds.
Set the chain back on the chainring and repeat the same installation procedure on the left side, making sure the crank arm is pointing opposite the right side.
Starting in on Wife's 1970-ish bike...
Removed cotter-ed crank after oiling pins for a few days.
Brief look at insides.. RUST! 7 Bearing 'assembly' coated with rust... closed that area for now.
At present, soaking crank and gear parts in solvent to remove light rust from chrome... Will examine bottom end cups and cones later today...
This bike will remain steel BB.
Saving grace for both bikes is they were in a garage for entire life....... Read more >>
So I attempted to remove this crankset, but the bolt that attaches the non-drive crank arm to the spindle did not budge. Instead, two other bolts that seem to work in conjunction with the one I wanted to loosen have come out.
Anybody have a suggestion on my next course of action?
Read more >>
I recently bought a cheap fixie bike from Walmart. The crank arms seem to be too long and I'm finding it to be a problem whenever I want to turn. Although I'm not doing much turning when I do I can't without having my crank arm hit the front wheel or my feet hitting the wheel. Please help... Read more >>
First Re-Lube since 1980's.... Square Taper Peugeot Branded 3 piece crank.
Plan is to Clean, replace bearings, and Re-Lube. Have tool for pulling arms.
If I find caged bearings, what is the conscientious.....????
Put in Loose bearings for more contact, (probably 11 because I won't find the original caged bearings....)
OR Try and find caged bearings... ?
Other than more bearings==better contact... Any suggestions?
I do have access to loose Grade 25 bearings at the local bike shop...
... Read more >>
So like many others I have had the unfortunate experience of the thread on my right crank arm stripped after only a month of usage (gutting I know!). However, I am not silly enough to try and take the easy and definitely unsafe option of using a helicoil kit (as surely that would just make the hole larger than it already is and therefore the pedal even more so unstable?).
Therefore I am in the market for a new replacement crankset that I can take to my LBS to get replaced.
I currently have the Felt F95 bike, size = 58cm.
Read more >>
I have a race face Chester crankset with a race face narrow/wide chainring
and it looks like the driveside crankarm and chainring have a slight wobble back and forth.
Its only been a month since install and I have so far only used the bike for riding back and forth to work nothing even close to extreme.
Now I'm not totally If it has actually done this since install cuz i diden't really notice it then and also I don't think i paid the much attention to it when i first installed it cuz i was kinda over excited. I got everything all tighted up and gave it a spin e... Read more >>
hi everyone...i'm giving a 2004 haro backtrail x2 nyquist to an 8-yr old kid as his first real bmx bike. He's tall enough to ride with the seat almost all the way down, but the stock one-piece cranks on the bike are way to long to ride in that seat configuration. How do I determine the proper aftermarket crank type and size for the backtrail X2 so I can order a new set? Do I need a new sprocket too, or is the old one (remember one-piece crank) reusable with new cranks? And if I need a new sprocket, must it have the same number teeth as old sprocket to work with the existing freewheel hub? ... Read more >>
[attachment=5378]Hi all I found this place by google, Im going to sound like an idiot but I hope someone can help me. Im not much of a bike person but I bought this trike to ride with my kids for fun, exercise & family outings. Unfortunately not long after buying (secondhand) I was riding and the right hand pedal came out of the crank, the crank thread is striped. Through googling I have become aware the reason is who ever assembled the bike put the right pedal on the left crank and vice versa.
Bike is from trike-bike.com.au .
[attachment=5352]I hope someone has run across this before. I have a Giant mountain bike and I have been using it on the paved trail a lot lately. Recently, I began hear a clanking sound after I ride about 10 miles. Sounds like when a pedal hits a kickstand that isn't all the way up. I can't duplicate it on a bike stand. It doesn't start until 10 miles and after 15 miles, I get an added rubber squeaking sound on top of the clank. The noise happens in the same pedal position every time and particularly when I'm pedaling hard and hardly at all if I pedal lightly. I had the derailleurs and s... Read more >>
I shipped my Dawes Super Galaxy home and have just had an unfortunate experience of not being able to re-attach my left Shimano M324 pedal.
It looks threaded, but I still have hopes as I think it's only the top couple of rings on the inside.
From what I can tell the pedal thread is fine.
I know there are tools out there to fix a thread. I'm hoping that mine is not so bad that I need a new crank set. Can anyone offer any advice?
The Gala... Read more >>
When I cycle my bike makes a clicking sound. Also when I change gear it won't change the first time I have to keep putting it back to the previous one and back to it and eventually it will change. Also when I put it into gear 1 the Chain will come off. This started happening weeks after I brought it I went back to the shop as it has a 12 month warrantee but they said it's not covered under the warrantee as it's wear and tear
does anyone know what the problem is and is it an easy fix or do I have to take to a repair shop?... Read more >>
I have a Schwinn Gateway and need to know what type of crank puller to purchase? Would the park tool cwp-7 work with this crank?... Read more >>
Hi, the thread on my crank arm has worn completely away, I have a budget road bike 14 speed but can not find a crank set online can any one help or come up with any alternatives. .. thanks, uk... Read more >>
I was wondering if someone could tell me whether I would be able to fix Power Grip straps to my pedals?... Read more >>
The cruisers right pedal felt slightly askew, it was late and only a mile from home. I gave it a cursory inspection, I'd check it at home on the stand.
I gingerly rode on a few revolutions and BAM!
1) Right foot slams to the ground and pushes forward off the toes
2) Gonads pound into the nose of the seat
3) Chest hurtles towards the the bars
4) Body rotates slightly to the right as the right foot is dragging
5) Left foot tries to slide outwards off the studded pedals
6) Every ounce of strength in my being tries to lock my shoulders, pecs and bic... Read more >>