10. How to Replace a Cartridge Bottom Bracket

Demonstrates how to remove and install a sealed cartridge bottom bracket.

IMPORTANT: Nuts and bolts on your bike should always be tightened to the manufacturer's specifications.
How to Replace a Cartridge Bottom Bracket
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  • 01:30 - The torque specification are actually 25-30 ft-lbs, or 300-360 in-lbs. Check with the manufacturer for exact products specs.

This tutorial will demonstrate how to remove and install a sealed cartridge bottom bracket, found on most modern bicycles. You’ll need to remove both cranks first, so be sure to refer to last week’s crank removal and installation tutorial before you begin.

Required Tools

For this job you’ll need a splined bottom bracket tool and a 32mm headset wrench, or a large adjustable wrench.

Components

A cartridge bottom bracket usually has two main components. The cartridge contains the sealed bearings and spindle, and is usually threaded into the right (or drive side) of your frame. The lockring supports the opposite end of the cartridge and is usually threaded into the left (or non-drive side) of your frame.

Bottom Bracket Removal

Remove the drive side first, using the lockring tool and wrench. On most bikes, the drive side has a left-hand thread, so you’ll need to turn your wrench clockwise to loosen. Once the drive side is removed, the non-drive side should easily loosen and unthread by turning counter-clockwise.

Before installing the new bottom bracket, carefully clean the threads on the inside of your frame, and then apply a thin layer of waterproof grease to the threads on both sides of the frame.

You’ll notice that most bottom brackets have an ‘L’ and ‘R’ written on them to assist in installation.

Bottom Bracket Installation

To install, first thread the new lockring part way into the left side of the frame by turning it clockwise. Don’t tighten the left-side yet.

Thread the cartridge all the way into the right side of the frame by turning it counter-clockwise. Tighten it with about 25-30 foot-pounds of pressure (300-360 inch-pounds) using a torque wrench. Torque specifications vary, so it’s a good idea to check the manufacturer’s website for their exact product specifications.

Now you can finish tightening the left side clockwise until it is nice and snug.

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Discuss this topic in the Bottom Bracket Forums

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Hi All,

First post on the forum, but I've been reading around for the last few months while I built my modified Schwinn OR2 700c electric bike conversion. I've done a little homework, but i'm really looking for a bit of advice before i pull the trigger on part orders:

After some decent overhaul to the stock bike, I am now hearing some clanking sounds when pedaling. I've checked the chain for any tight links and just did a thorough cleaning of the chain to see it that could have been the cause. At this point, i'm convinced its an issue with the BB.

After ... Read more >>

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https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4007/4696183840_6f36e611f6_z.jpg
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Is there a good way of knowing what size of BB your bike takes, without having it at hand, and not having the specs from the manual.

I would like to get the tools and part at the same time to avoid repeat trips to the bike store, if I can help it.... Read more >>

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Hi everybody,

I am in desperate need of some assistance here.

I bought a Shimano Ultegra compact crankset to be fittet on my Specialized SL4 Pro Tarmac - 2012.

I want to replace the bottom bracket as well - but my question is:

Would a Shimano Ultegra BB6700 fit my Specialized bike - or would I need some sort of adapter or something like that?

I seem to be stuck in the BB jungle and does not seem to get the right answers when I google around.

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05/05 Cross threading

Hi,

Is it possible to damage the threads of the bottom bracket shell while undoing the BB?

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Thanks
Oggy... Read more >>

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Hello,

My bike started recently having a problem where every few hundred meters my pedal arm gets loose and shaky, and I have to stop and tighten again.

I've completely opened and cleaned the bottom bracket and I've replaced the ball bearings (not the cages). The situation has improved, but the pedal still gets loose.

I'm not sure what to try next in order to fix it:
When I replaced the bottom bracket it seemed not too worn out, and only the point where the ball bearings touch on it had lost the paint, and it had signs of fatigue where the crank ... Read more >>

03/17 Cup Wrenchs - Which ones do I need?

hi,

Hopefully someone can identify the wrenches I need:

thanks in advance.


[Image: twwLjh1.jpg]... Read more >>

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I'm fairly new to bmx terminology so bare with me.

My old bottom bracket and crank was rusted and the threads were severely stripped so I decided to replace them. The new crank, spindle, and bearings I bought are all 19mm and the old ones are 22mm or something. I took the old bearing cups off the rusted bearings to use with my new ones, but they don't fit, so I'm assuming you have to buy new bearing cups specifically for the size of bearing? (I know this is probably a dumb question) And are all bearing cups the same circumference on the outside?

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Worked fine until today! I didn't believe my son at first since he's a little small for the bike. Pedals no longer turn or turn with great difficulty. I can barely move them by hand forward or backward. At first it would work backwar... Read more >>

11/23 1977 Raleigh 26tpi BB and Chainset

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If a shorter spindle is not available I could replace the existing bearings with a cartridge but I can't find anything 26tpi for a 70mm shell. What would you suggest?... Read more >>

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