23. How to Replace Your Chainrings
Basic removal and installation instructions for 5-bolt chainrings on 3-sprocket systems.
This tutorial will demonstrate how to remove and install chainrings. Since there are so many different crank and chainring sizing combinations, I’ll stick to the basics and give a general overview of the process based on a 5-bolt, 3-chainring system.
Before removing the largest two chainrings you’ll often have to remove the smallest one, which is often threaded directly into your crank arm. Use your allen key to loosen all of the bolts that hold the chainring in place, and then use a marker to make a note of the chainring’s position in relation to the crank before removing it completely. Some chainrings have a bump sticking out that should be lined up with your crank arm.
The largest two rings are usually bolted to each other with a nut and bolt. Here you’ll need to hold the nut in place with the special chainring wrench while you loosen the bolt with your allen key. Once again it’s a good idea to mark the chainring’s position in relation to your crank arm. The two largest outer rings often have a few spacers or washers in between, so be sure to note exactly how they came apart so they can be reinstalled correctly.
While it’s ok to install a new chainring that has a different number of teeth, you’ll want to make sure that your new chainrings have the same side profile as the old ones.
Before you reinstall the bolts, apply a thin layer of grease to the threads to keep out moisture. Now you can reassemble all of your chainrings the same way they came apart.
Make sure all of the bolts are finger tight and then begin tightening them evenly in a star pattern. Start by tightening the first bolt, and then every second bolt until you’ve gone all the way around. Repeat this process until all of the bolts are tight. Be careful not to over-tighten. Park Tools recommends 44-88 inch pounds of torque for aluminum bolts, and 70-95 inch pounds for steel bolts.
Bike is a Fuji Allegro, with a Sun Tour Mighty-6 rear cluster according to the parts listing I found online.
The chain was completely rusted/stuck to the cassette ring it was on, and chains appear to be cheap online, so I'm replacing that.
If I wanted to replace the cassette as well, how can I tell which six speed cassettes would be compatible? Is that even an issue, or are they all basically the same?
I was looking at this one as an example: Read more >>
does anyone know the part number (or how to find it?) for the 32 tooth sprocket that attaches to the crank? My bike shop guy will take the 38 tooth sprocket (standard factory equipment when you buy the trike new) off, and put the 32 tooth sprocket on for me, but he needs that part number in order to get the 32 tooth sprocket.
The adult trike is a 26 inch, one speed, schwinn meridian.
thanks... Read more >>
Canvassing opinions on an annoying noise.
The bike is a Ribble R872, high modulus carbon frame, 105 groupo.
I get a rattle/buzz only when in the large chainring and only in the third and fourth largest sprockets. It's high pitched, almost like a vibration. Shift up or down the cassette from these sprockets, no noise. Small chainring, no noise.
I'm pretty capable in terms of set up, I can strip down and rebuild a drivetrain fairly competently so the obvious tweaks in relation to indexing and general set up I don't think are applicabl... Read more >>
I am 85 years old and do not have much strength in my thighs. I just bought a Schwinn Meridian 26 inch trike. Can the sprocket ( I guess it is called a chainwheel nowadays) on the crank be changed to one with a smaller diameter? That way, may be the trike will be easier for me to pedal. Like if it is now a 6 inch sprocket, could I get a 4 inch sprocket put on? Would this be an easy job for a bike mechanic? I suppose the present chain could be used then too if it were shortened?... Read more >>
Hello I know to some this will be a novice question and you will be disgusted but I don't want to buy the wrong chain. THANKS
Will this chain fit my bike?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110935490423?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT... Read more >>
I have a seven speed Raleigh bike. Recently, when cycling the bike stopped moving forward when I pedaled. The gears and tires don't move when I pedal forward but do move when i pedal backwards. Does anyone know how I can fix this?
As someone who is mechanically challenged, I appreciate any assistance. Thank you!... Read more >>
I recently put a new chain on my bike. It's a 10 speed. The chain was for a 10 speed. I didn't check the number of links on the old chain. The bike keeps shifting into higher gears and there seems to be tension on the derailleur cable that pulls it into high gears. I've tried adjusting the derailleur but it didn't help. I'm wondering if the chain is too short.
Help appreciated.... Read more >>
First post here. I've tried searching, but I don't know what you call this.
I have a vintage Schwinn Passage that I picked up a few months ago. At first it worked well, but recently it's been giving me trouble.
When I shift, the chain pops into the higher (larger) gear, but then sits on top of the chain ring. What ends up happening is that the chainring will keep turning, and eventually the chain will pop into place or pop right off.
<... Read more >>
Over the past few years, I have noticed that basically all the bikes I have owned/sold/ridden have all had chains that do not have a quick release. So, when I need to replace them, I have to get a punch and a hammer to take the chain off. Does anyone know the meaning of this? It has been bugging me for quite some time now because it can take quite a while to punch out one of the pins. Plus, then sometimes the chain is ruined.
-mtnbikr... Read more >>
Have an old Sears tote cycle that I'm fixing up. Looks like it was a two or three speed but has no cable or shifter on it. Coaster brake arm has Torpedo Dreigang on it. I'm wanting to get it back to working again.Know nothing about this. I have built motorcycles so I know my way around two wheels. Trying to find out how to hook up a new cable and lever to the rear hub.... Read more >>
Hi, new to the forum, need some tech advice:
1) is it normal for the teeth on the same chainring to have different profiles - some are pointed and others shorter and squarer. This is a new Triple LASCO I am looking at in a shop.
2) How do I know if any new chainset I buy, will match my existing spindle? The chainset I have currently fitted is an SR SUNTOUR ZR 120, does that mean the square hole is 12mm?
Zak... Read more >>
Brand Brand new to the Forum!
I have a Giant Iguana 640 Bike that has been under the house for a couple of years. Used to ride it quite a bit then life kicked in. Just got re-enthused about riding and decided to break out my bike. I cleaned it up and got the cobwebs off.
I am having a problem and have no idea where to start to diagnose it. Everything looks good but if you pedal, the pedals turn but the the rear sprocket does not engage. I can pedal and pedal but I go nowhere. There is no grinding or unusual sounds.
I would appreciate any advise or guidanc... Read more >>
I am currently running a thread on derailleurs regarding 7 speed blocks. However, another bump has appeared in my road - scarcity of 7 speed chains.
I really wanted Schramm, but can't find one, but Competitviecyclist have just told me that the Shimano 9 speed chain is compatible with 7 speed. I am sceptical so I decided to canvas you guys. Can anyone confirm this? Thanks... Read more >>
My current set up is a standard 2011 Merida Ride 91:
Frame Ride Speed-Single
Fork Road CF-S
Front Derailleur Shimano Sora 34.9 Double
Rear Derailleur Shimano Sora SS
Shifters Shimano Sora
Brake Levers attached
Brakes F/R Shimano Sora
Crankset Shimano Sora 50-34
BB Set attached
Chain Shimano CN-HG53
Hubs F/R Shimano 2200
Rims Alex Race24-White-NC
Freewheel Shimano CS-HG50-9 11-25
Spokes Black stainless
Tyres Maxxis Detonator 25 60
H-Bar... Read more >>
Please could anyone advise on some issues that I currently have with my MTB drive chain.
I recently replaced my complete drive chain and all was looking good with the fine tuning until I used my MTB today and the problems started.
The issues that seem to be occurring is that the cassette changes with no problems but some of the gears do not seem to operate correctly.
IE they keep popping back off the cassette gears before re-latching and again pop back off the gears. During this the chain seems to be riding on the edge of the gears.