23. How to Replace Your Chainrings
Basic removal and installation instructions for 5-bolt chainrings on 3-sprocket systems.
This tutorial will demonstrate how to remove and install chainrings. Since there are so many different crank and chainring sizing combinations, I'll stick to the basics and give a general overview of the process based on a 5-bolt, 3-chainring system.
Before removing the largest two chainrings you'll often have to remove the smallest one, which is often threaded directly into your crank arm. Use your allen key to loosen all of the bolts that hold the chainring in place, and then use a marker to make a note of the chainring's position in relation to the crank before removing it completely. Some chainrings have a bump sticking out that should be lined up with your crank arm.
The largest two rings are usually bolted to each other with a nut and bolt. Here you'll need to hold the nut in place with the special chainring wrench while you loosen the bolt with your allen key. Once again it's a good idea to mark the chainring's position in relation to your crank arm. The two largest outer rings often have a few spacers or washers in between, so be sure to note exactly how they came apart so they can be reinstalled correctly.
While it's ok to install a new chainring that has a different number of teeth, you'll want to make sure that your new chainrings have the same side profile as the old ones.
Before you reinstall the bolts, apply a thin layer of grease to the threads to keep out moisture. Now you can reassemble all of your chainrings the same way they came apart.
Make sure all of the bolts are finger tight and then begin tightening them evenly in a star pattern. Start by tightening the first bolt, and then every second bolt until you've gone all the way around. Repeat this process until all of the bolts are tight. Be careful not to over-tighten. Park Tools recommends 44-88 inch pounds of torque for aluminum bolts, and 70-95 inch pounds for steel bolts.
Does anyone know if Ultegra 6800 cassette will work on Dura Ace 9000 group? If not do you know if Shimano has fixed the issues they had with the 9000 cassettes?
Thanks... Read more >>
I removed and replaced the cassette on my bike (making no changes). Now I find that when the wheel is under load the chain climbs up on the teeth of the smallest sprocket (see photo).
Everything works fine with the other gears or when the wheel spins freely. This seems to be the *opposite* effect I'd expect if the chain had stretched or the gear teeth were worn. Instead, the pitch of the chain seems too short, not too long. Can anyone explain what's happening and how I can fix it?... Read more >>
Hi all. i am new here and generally also pretty new to doing anything with my bicycle myself.
I was driving my bicycle today and suddenly noticed that the rear chain ring got completely detached
from the hub and was just free rotating. I never before had a closer look at how it looks like, so I have no idea, what exactly got broken. Now it looks like that:
[img] Read more >>
Does anyone know the correct tool for this freewheel removal. The Park FR2 is too small.
The freewheel comes from a 1980s Raleigh Record. I've tried two local bike shops with no joy.
It has a Maillard stamp.
Thanks and Regards
... Read more >>
How do I get from this
The first picture is the model I have sachs LY 94. 8 speed 12-21. I have the freewheel and cassette off the wheel like in the ... Read more >>
Hi, this is my first post to the forum! I have an old Focus MTB, bought it just recently second hand and I am also new to biking so please excuse me for being naive.
The problem started after the first miles with the bicycle, hearing a noise from the back. It was getting louder and louder very quickly and now, when I am pedaling everything is normal but when I stop and keep the pedals still, while on the road, the chain turns really loose and even goes out of the ring. This happens all the time. Tried with some lube and also tried to see if there is an obvious problem with the chain b... Read more >>
Removing SOLEUS freewheel DIY without a remover, garage style tip for everyone...
I was trying to clean and grease my wheel bearings, looks like removing the free wheel is a must do type of thing on my bike. I found that a regular old school Chevy GM craiger style lug nut fit in there perfectly. I think its ... Read more >>
I have. 2015 Defy 5. It has a FSA Tempo, 34/50 crankset.
Is this compatible with the Shimano 5800 group set? I currently have this setup with my Defy 5. She shifts a little rough on the front dérailleur. I guess what I am wondering is if I need to upgrade the crankset to the 5800? The bike came with a Claris setup. What I do not know is if there is an issue with 'spacing'. My current setup has 5800 shifters, FD, RD, chain and cassette (16 tooth removed and no indexing issues).... Read more >>
I'm new to bike repair. I use an old bike to ride around my neighborhood with my kids so I'm not a serious rider. My bike has a Shimano FH-RM40 7-speed hub and cassette. It's been difficult finding direct replacements for those components. Is there anything else that will fit without having to change out the entire wheel? I don't mind upgrading if the cost isn't too high. What are my options?
Thanks...... Read more >>
I need some advice. I bought a used, "as-is", 2015 Fuji Nevada 1.9 Mountain Bike with 3 x 7 gears from a LBS. I ride it a lot, 10-20 miles 3-7 times a week. The spin-on freewheel was a factory issued SunRun 14-34 and it literally fell apart in 2 months. (Yes, SunRun, not Sunrace) I purchased and replaced the old SunRun with a new SunRun 14-34 and after 3 weeks it is wobbling. I had another LBS check it out, they are scratching their heads. I am wanting a better quality freewheel than the Fuji factory issue of the P.O.S. SunRun Brand. The Shimano Tourney 14-34 makes sense but is there a better ... Read more >>
The chain on my exercise bike became too long over time and started "slipping". So I took the chain off and took off one section (2 links - a female and male) and replaced the pin to complete the repair. Now the chain is too short to put back on the bike - what I needed was a way to make it one link shorter (not one section=2 links). Is there now a way to make the chain just one link longer? Some sort of male to female single extension link? Thanks.... Read more >>
Complete carbon fiber (frame) road bike less than one year old - 105 10 speed. Built it myself and it has been fantastic up to now. About a month ago I started getting a loud rattling noise everytime a rode over slightly rough ground (chip and seal). on smooth road it is silent. It is obviously coming from the rear part of the drive. I always ride on the big ring on the 4th cog from the top - flatland. Here's what I have checked : Chain is a good length but I have tried two links shorter and two links longer. Tried a brand new chain. checked that all bolts are tight, pulleys, ... Read more >>
I have a new project on my hands and am trying to service a cassette of a bike I recently purchase second-hand. The bike I have is a MTB- Shockwave XT950. Can you please let me know how to open this cassette. I have tried various videos however I am unable to find a video for a similar cassette.
Hx... Read more >>
The chain comes off my rear small sprocket on back peddling. The bike rides good other wise.
I have noticed other riders on the side of the road with the same problem. Without a wheel wrench it is quite hard to free up and put back onto the gear cluster. What causes this malfunction?... Read more >>
Being new to this hobby I ran across the 12" rule for chain wear. You pull the chain tight, right on the bike, measure 12 links, the distance between 25 pins, and if it measures 12" the chain is like new. If it measures 12 1/8" you throw the chain away and replace it.
Something new to check out now. i imagine a worn chain causes shifting problems as well as drive train inefficiency. Do others here you use this method for determining chain wear??... Read more >>