23. How to Replace Your Chainrings
Basic removal and installation instructions for 5-bolt chainrings on 3-sprocket systems.
This tutorial will demonstrate how to remove and install chainrings. Since there are so many different crank and chainring sizing combinations, I’ll stick to the basics and give a general overview of the process based on a 5-bolt, 3-chainring system.
Before removing the largest two chainrings you’ll often have to remove the smallest one, which is often threaded directly into your crank arm. Use your allen key to loosen all of the bolts that hold the chainring in place, and then use a marker to make a note of the chainring’s position in relation to the crank before removing it completely. Some chainrings have a bump sticking out that should be lined up with your crank arm.
The largest two rings are usually bolted to each other with a nut and bolt. Here you’ll need to hold the nut in place with the special chainring wrench while you loosen the bolt with your allen key. Once again it’s a good idea to mark the chainring’s position in relation to your crank arm. The two largest outer rings often have a few spacers or washers in between, so be sure to note exactly how they came apart so they can be reinstalled correctly.
While it’s ok to install a new chainring that has a different number of teeth, you’ll want to make sure that your new chainrings have the same side profile as the old ones.
Before you reinstall the bolts, apply a thin layer of grease to the threads to keep out moisture. Now you can reassemble all of your chainrings the same way they came apart.
Make sure all of the bolts are finger tight and then begin tightening them evenly in a star pattern. Start by tightening the first bolt, and then every second bolt until you’ve gone all the way around. Repeat this process until all of the bolts are tight. Be careful not to over-tighten. Park Tools recommends 44-88 inch pounds of torque for aluminum bolts, and 70-95 inch pounds for steel bolts.
First post here. I've tried searching, but I don't know what you call this.
I have a vintage Schwinn Passage that I picked up a few months ago. At first it worked well, but recently it's been giving me trouble.
When I shift, the chain pops into the higher (larger) gear, but then sits on top of the chain ring. What ends up happening is that the chainring will keep turning, and eventually the chain will pop into place or pop right off.
<... Read more >>
Over the past few years, I have noticed that basically all the bikes I have owned/sold/ridden have all had chains that do not have a quick release. So, when I need to replace them, I have to get a punch and a hammer to take the chain off. Does anyone know the meaning of this? It has been bugging me for quite some time now because it can take quite a while to punch out one of the pins. Plus, then sometimes the chain is ruined.
-mtnbikr... Read more >>
Have an old Sears tote cycle that I'm fixing up. Looks like it was a two or three speed but has no cable or shifter on it. Coaster brake arm has Torpedo Dreigang on it. I'm wanting to get it back to working again.Know nothing about this. I have built motorcycles so I know my way around two wheels. Trying to find out how to hook up a new cable and lever to the rear hub.... Read more >>
Hi, new to the forum, need some tech advice:
1) is it normal for the teeth on the same chainring to have different profiles - some are pointed and others shorter and squarer. This is a new Triple LASCO I am looking at in a shop.
2) How do I know if any new chainset I buy, will match my existing spindle? The chainset I have currently fitted is an SR SUNTOUR ZR 120, does that mean the square hole is 12mm?
Zak... Read more >>
Brand Brand new to the Forum!
I have a Giant Iguana 640 Bike that has been under the house for a couple of years. Used to ride it quite a bit then life kicked in. Just got re-enthused about riding and decided to break out my bike. I cleaned it up and got the cobwebs off.
I am having a problem and have no idea where to start to diagnose it. Everything looks good but if you pedal, the pedals turn but the the rear sprocket does not engage. I can pedal and pedal but I go nowhere. There is no grinding or unusual sounds.
I would appreciate any advise or guidanc... Read more >>
I am currently running a thread on derailleurs regarding 7 speed blocks. However, another bump has appeared in my road - scarcity of 7 speed chains.
I really wanted Schramm, but can't find one, but Competitviecyclist have just told me that the Shimano 9 speed chain is compatible with 7 speed. I am sceptical so I decided to canvas you guys. Can anyone confirm this? Thanks... Read more >>
My current set up is a standard 2011 Merida Ride 91:
Frame Ride Speed-Single
Fork Road CF-S
Front Derailleur Shimano Sora 34.9 Double
Rear Derailleur Shimano Sora SS
Shifters Shimano Sora
Brake Levers attached
Brakes F/R Shimano Sora
Crankset Shimano Sora 50-34
BB Set attached
Chain Shimano CN-HG53
Hubs F/R Shimano 2200
Rims Alex Race24-White-NC
Freewheel Shimano CS-HG50-9 11-25
Spokes Black stainless
Tyres Maxxis Detonator 25 60
H-Bar... Read more >>
Please could anyone advise on some issues that I currently have with my MTB drive chain.
I recently replaced my complete drive chain and all was looking good with the fine tuning until I used my MTB today and the problems started.
The issues that seem to be occurring is that the cassette changes with no problems but some of the gears do not seem to operate correctly.
IE they keep popping back off the cassette gears before re-latching and again pop back off the gears. During this the chain seems to be riding on the edge of the gears.
I have an 8-speed mtb (Saracen Raw3) with a cassette sprocket. When I pedal forwards the sprocket free-wheels which means the bike doesn't go anywhere. If I get hold of the sprockets I can turn it both anti-clockwise and clockwise
I changed the cassette about 3 months ago but the bearings haven't been changed or greased since I bought it (2007) (maybe the problem?)
I can ride the bike for a short time before it happens - after a few moments the sprocket will grip again and then stop again and so on...
I've tried bringing the wheel insi... Read more >>
Is there a possibility for a 4th and even larger chainring. in additon to a normal 3 ring setup... Read more >>
Have a pristine '85 Fuji Allegro w/ 12spd gears. Can this bike be converted
to a 18spd by changing the front cog from 2 to 3 gears? Or would the conversion cost more than the bike was worth?
Front cogs=42,52 w/ 170mm chain
Rear spindle= 14,16,19,22,26,30
Thought adding a 32 cog to the front would help with climbs.... Read more >>
Bought a '13 Giant Yukon GT and have in my head that a 10-speed cassette won't fit on this puppy. Read it somewhere but can't remember where. Thinking it said only up to 9-speed will fit this hub. Can anybody enlighten me before I order a new cassette, rear derailer and shifter.... Read more >>
I repair old bikes and donate them to a food pantry. I run into small openings in the cassettes smaller than 20cm. Are there lockring tools that are for sale that I can purchase to remove these older cassettes.
Pete Labita... Read more >>
I have a Mongoose XR-75 that is in very nice shape...except for the FRONT 3-sprocket set (chainwheels?). Some teeth are worn out on the two largest sprockets. Chain looks good. I have replacements (from another bike-same model), and I am ready to swap them out.
While I am a pretty good (auto) mechanic, I haven't done this particular job before, and I'm not exactly sure how to go about it. It appears that the sprockets are held on with hex screws. Right? Looks like a fairly easy process...but is it? Is there a tutorial here at the site that covers this bike?
Thanks for... Read more >>
Is there a crankset out there that will allow a less than 32 tooth 2nd chainring to be fitted. Any ideas? Thanks. Giant Yukon FX. Has a SR Suntour XCT V2 on it now.... Read more >>