42. How to Check For Chain Wear
Demonstrates how to measure a worn out chain using Sheldon Brown’s ruler technique.
Demonstrates how to measure a worn out chain using Sheldon Brown’s ruler technique.
One of the most common problems I hear about is chain skip, which is when your pedal slips forward while pedaling under pressure. This is usually either caused by a stiff chain link, worn freehub body, or by a worn chain and freewheel. In this tutorial, we’ll learn how to diagnose a worn drivetrain.
Watch the stiff link tutorial first to make sure that isn’t your problem. Once you’ve ruled out a stiff link it’s time to check if your chain is actually worn. Chains will ‘stretch’ over time, because the pins and bushings start to wear, which causes them to start skipping. There are many tools available that measure chain wear (listed to the right of the video), but the easiest and most accurate way to check is by simply using a ruler.
With your chain still on the bike, place the ruler’s ’0′ inch mark directly above the center of one of your chain pins. Now count 12 complete links. A complete link equals 1 inner and 1 outer. A rivet on a new chain should line up exactly with the 12 inch mark using this method.
According to Sheldon Brown, if the rivet is less than 1/16″ past the mark, your chain is ok. If it’s between 1/16″ and 1/8″ past the mark you’ll likely need a new chain, but your sprockets should be ok. If it’s more than 1/8″ past the mark, you’ll have to replace both the chain and rear sprockets.
The reason you’d have to replace the rear sprockets is because they generally wear with the chain. While the chain is ‘stretching’, the gap between the teeth on your sprockets also gets wider and wider. This causes the chain to ride up over the teeth and slip while pedaling under pressure. If you install a new chain on an old sprocket, you’ll probably be able to see gaps of light through the teeth as shown. Here’s how to replace a cassette or a freewheel.
Your front chainrings generally won’t need replacing. Because of the larger diameter, the front chainrings usually take twice as long to wear. If worn they are very easy to spot, as they’ll start looking like shark teeth. Here’s how to replace your chainrings.
Thanks to Sheldon Brown and Cambridge Cycling Campaign for the photos!
I did the H and L screw adjustments as described on site then release the cable by bolt after all turned the barrel adjuster Clockwise to loose the cable tension, turned it two half turn then tight the bolt.I haven't any noise or ticking noise except the second smallest cog.When the chain on it some ticking sound appears.I found the cable tension not enough only on second smallest cog if i push the lever a little bit sounds disappear because when the chain on that cog the jockey pulley is rubbing the inner side of the chain one or maybe twice on 1 full turn of cog. If I apply more tension to ... Read more >>
I got a nice shape woman's Trek 820 for free, checking it out for my girls, shifts fine, grip shift works well but you need to apply some twist to move it from gear to gear, is there a way to lubricate the grip shift itself or is it a tight cable issue? thanks... Read more >>
So I basically know very little about bicycle repair (not technical by nature either), but I found an old racebike just missing wheels, a steer and pedals. I managed to get everything together and in working order, but somehow i can't get the shifting from my back wheel right. I did the thing with the limits (H and L screws), and I tried turning the adjusting barrel, but the shifting of the highest (smallest cogs right?) four out of eight gears doesn't work properply (up nor down). It's like I shift perfectly for the first four, then only shift half a cog, so I have to shift twice, and from t... Read more >>
Greetings all, new to forum, bit of help required. I have recently upgraded my Felt z95 from Shimano Tiagra cassette and rear derailleur to 105. I'm an amateur but have tinkered successfully with a few set ups, but this has got me stumped. I've set the limit stops and B tension screw according to various instructionals, and cable tension appears ok. Shifting is fairly sweet but when I'm in large chairing and work up to the 3rd and 2nd largest sprocket the angle the chain sits at in the derailleur cage causes the whole rear mech to jump and grind. The chain is angled outward as if the ... Read more >>
After pulling off my rear derailleur I noticed that my hanger has significant play against the frame. I tried tightening the bolt but it won't tighten anymore, when I loosen it it still only tightens to the same point. Any ideas? Thanks Benen... Read more >>
Hi. New to the forum and looking for some help/advice. I have been riding for last few years on a specialized mtb. I have only done very basic maintenance myself relying on LBS to do anything I deemed "too difficult". Recently I decided (after getting fed up with the cost of some of the repairs) to have a go myself. So I have replaced the chain and cassette and new pads etc. all ok except that when I have the bike up on a stand the gears change flawlessly. However when I am riding I see an issue with shifting up a gear and the gears not shifting. If I shift up again it then changes 2 gears.... Read more >>
Hi all, I've been giving my entire bike an overhaul bit by bit over the weekend and am up to the rear derailleur. Most things have been no problem so far. I'm just curious on the best way to go about it. I've dismantled the derailleur. Most things I have cleaned in Kerosene (chain, cassette etc.) and then rinsed in hot water, dried, re-assembled and put pack on the bike but my jockey wheels have a cartridge bearing and I'm not sure if u can just dunk them in kerosene and attack with a toothbrush? I don't want to do any damage. Thanks Benen... Read more >>
[attachment=4072]Hi there am new to the forum and guess what i have a problem have an old Raleigh pioneer 21 that i cant bear to part with. Especially after some bad experience with brand new bikes anyway just put on a brand new old stock derailleur and cable connected to early shimano rapid fire shifters if i set it up to go from 1 to 7 smoothly but wont go from 7 to 1 and vice versa have a cycle haynes manual and set it up by the book and looked on internet what everway i set it up doesnt work was the same with the old derailleur thats why i relaced it... Read more >>
I have a SRAM APEX 9 speed system (2 chainrings) 3 years old that has worked well until I took it apart to clean it. I put on a new chain too. Now in high range/low gear (crossing over) the chain jumps off the distal derailleur wheel, causing me to have to get off and reposition it. It is clear that the angle of the chain going from the big wheel on the cluster to the big chainring is causing this. It seems like the guides on the sides of roller wheel should be close enough to prevent the chain from jumping off. Did I put it back together incorrectly? Is the chain too short ? All opin... Read more >>
Hi all. I'm new to repairing my bike myself, but I got so fed up with the dishonest or incompetent shops in the area that I've decided to just do things myself. So far all I've done are change a flat tire (and install rim tape and wheel liner while doing that) and just now I replaced a gear shift cable. anyway the background to my question is as follows. A couple months ago one of my pedals broke off. Although I had already started fixing some stuff myself, I brought it to a shop to fix as I didn't have a pedal laying around, not expecting that to break, and I need my bike, I ride it a ... Read more >>
Hi I Got given an old Peugeot Premiere racing bike by my next door neighbour at the end of last year, I think it is around '84 vintage, it has a pearlescent white frame with blue stickers, it's quite a retro bike and they seem to go for reasonable money on ebay. The front derailleur is a Sachs Huret and the internal face that pushes the chain away from the down tube has worn through the plating and is rusting badly. I was thinking of trying to find something new old stock to bung on it, something Shimano would be good, there are lots on ebay with prices starting from £1 so hopefully a chea... Read more >>
Hey guys, I am new to shimano 105 basically new to cycling (last bike i bought was 20 years ago) and bought a charge juicer high. A great bike but seems like the derailers are a bit off. I took it back once so far for adjustment but after about another 30 miles they went back to not quite right. The rear doesn't shift right when in the low gears and the front shifts slow when going to bigger sprocket. Any ideas or is 105 just this?... Read more >>
I replaced the chain on my daughters bike. Now it won't stay in the top two gears (6 and 7). It constantly hops out and back in. The rest of the gears seem fine. It doesn't matter what gear the front derailleur is on. The back cog is 7 speeds. The chain is an 8 speed chain, but as far as I can tell they're the same. The length of the new chain might be one link shorter. I adjusted the tension on the derailleur as best as I could. The derailleur seems a bit bent as the wheels don't line up with the gears. That's my first guess as to the problem, but it used to work fine. Any ideas on what I s... Read more >>
What inexpensive RD should I replace it with? Will a RD-TX35 bolt right on?... Read more >>
I foolishly did not remove and clean my jockey pulleys (Acera derailleur) one at a time, and see that one has a metal sleeve inside the ring, and one does not. Both bushings seem to be the same length. The metal-sleeved one is slightly thinner. From my reading, it seems that this one is the "top" one (closest to the freewheel/cassette) that because it is thinner, it "wobbles" to make shifting easier. Do I have it right that I put the thinner one on top?... Read more >>