How To Clean and Lubricate a Chain
Frequent chain cleaning and lubrication will help keep dirt off your chain and prevent wear.
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DownloadRegular cleaning and lubrication of your chain will help prevent your drivetrain from wearing out. You should clean and lubricate the chain when it is dirty, dry or begins to sound noisy. If you ride every day, you should clean and lube the chain at least once a month.
Chain Lubricants
I don’t recommend using either motor oil or 3in1 oil to lubricate the chain. Motor oil is too heavy and won’t fully penetrate the rollers, and 3in1 oil is vegetable based and will gum up the chain. I also don’t recommend using wax lubricants because while they don’t collect as much dirt, they are a lot of hassle to apply correctly, and wax is simply not as good a lubricant as oil. I do recommend mineral based chain oils like Finish Line Cross Country or Phil Wood Tenacious Oil because they do the best job of fighting corrosion and don’t wash away when they get wet.
Chain Cleaning
For cleaning, first shift the chain into the smallest sprocket on the rear. For average dust and dirt, wipe the chain clean with a solvent soaked rag. The easiest way to do this is to hold the chain still at the rear derailleur cage while firmly wiping the lower run of the chain. Then move the chain backward and wipe again until you’ve wiped the entire length of chain. Wipe between the rear sprockets using either a rag or a sprocket cleaning tool. Then clean all of the front chainrings on both sides.
Chain Lubrication
Shift your gears into the middle sprocket both front and rear. Remember that oil does a good job of spreading itself, so try not to over-apply the lubricant. Lubricate the inner circumference of the chain, on the side that faces the sprockets along the top of the lower run of the chain. Run the chain backwards while dropping oil down both sides of the rollers.
Shift through all of the gears to spread the lubricant evenly through the drivetrain. Then use a rag to wipe off any excess oil.
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This video is also available on DVD Volume 1
Best series of instructional videos ever. I watch every one.
Awesome bike tutorials!! Keep up the great work. PS. I discovered REI had bike tools through your bike tutorial.
Another link I’d like to suggest for your list above, from KMC;
http://www.kmcchain.com/index.php?ln=en&fn=service
Great set of videos, incidentally – the text instructions are great too.
They are great videos and descriptions for us that are mechanically challenged. Love to ride, run and swim but hate to service the mechanical parts.
Nice job
I got this lube called PEDROS SYN LUBE what is your opinion ?
I’m not familiar with that product, but I read their description and I think it will work just fine.
What about MOTOREX WET LUBE? I use this stuff and I want to be sure it’s a safe product. Know anything about it?
Thanks a lot!
Bike Radar reviewed the Motorex Lube and says “We found it a little thinner than the Finish Line product, and it needed more frequent application in very wet conditions, but otherwise it gives the same high level of performance. Our main gripe is the flip-top application, which makes for a pretty messy time.”
hehe, thanks !
Thanks for the great video. I’m curious about wiping the chain down with solvent part though. What kind of solvent and how much pressure when wiping?
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I use the Finish Line Degreaser, or you could use the Park Chainbrite. Your local bike shop may have some other products that will work just as well.
Use as much wiping pressure as is needed to remove the dirt and grime. If it’s really stuck on, remove the chain and soak it in the solvent for an hour or two first. I’ll be demonstrating a drivetrain bath in an upcoming tutorial.
Phil Tenacious oil seems really heavy for chain lube – when I tried it my chain and bike was filthy after every ride. I’ve been using Rock”N”Roll Ultimate lately and having better results. What do you think about Rock”N”Roll?
I agree that Phil Wood is pretty gummy and takes some maintenance. I finish line cross country most of the time. I’m not familiar with Rock N Roll, but I did find a few reviews of it here.
These tutorials are great! Thank you so much!!
A great site you have. Your videos are great and easy to understand. I really appreciate your work.
Thanks for the insight. You have great tips and I never thought about maintaining my bike, but I realize it is an important factor. I just got a new Schwinn ranger this year and I use it 20 miles a day so I am having a deep understanding of maintaining my vehicle. Again, thank you so much. Will.
These tutorials are great for a beginner biker like me. I bought a Trek Soho 4.0 about a month ago and have used some of your tips, like cleaning a chain. This week I’ll be getting a Bianchi 928 Carbon Veloce, so I began watching over and over about shifting gears. I might have missed it, but do you have a tutorial on using cleats? If not, do you know of a video format which shows how to use these? Thanks. Thomas.
Thanks for the request Thomas, I’ve added it to the list!
Outstanding series!
Care to comment on this chain cleaning technique (1X/year)?
1. Remove chain from bike (using a chain tool)
2. Submerse chain in solvent (paint thinner in old coffee can)
3. Using old toothbrush, thoroughly brush entire chain length
4. Wipe chain, then hang to dry (best if left overnight)
5. Reinstall chain on bike using chain tool
6. Lubricate as you show.
Good time to clean the derailleur pulleys too.
Seems like anything less leaves chain-eating dirt that wears it out faster.
Thanks!
That is an excellent technique. A yearly drivetrain bath is a great idea if you have the time and place to do it. I’ll be posting a tutorial on this in the future!
Thanks for the great instruction. Getting ready to ride in the Tour de Cure, and didn’t know how to clean the chain properly.
Appreciate the great information!
Julie
I have just discovered your site and am enjoying it. Any chance you could advise or do a video on removing and reinstalling a rear wheel with 3 speed, like Sturmey Archer?
Eppoh, I’ve added your request to the list. I do hope to acquire a 3-speed bike at some point as I used to really enjoy working with those hubs. I’ll cover adjustments and overhauls as well.
Alex, I attended a 6 week bike maintenance class at my LBS. Your videos are an excellent refresher. I refer back to them all the time. Very well done. Thanks for all your hard work.
Hi! Great site, congratulations!
The guys at Veloplus in Switzerland made a gorgeous machine to test several lubricants. Here is the link (unfortunately the site is in German, but I think the most important things you can understand, or let it translated by google or yahoo):
http://www.veloplus.ch/service/fachinformationen.asp?fk_GruppeID=17
Click on the “Film zum Thema:” to see a short video of the test apparatus. For the results of the tests:
http://www.veloplus.ch/pdf/fachinformation/petrus_test20071010163255.pdf
I’ve had the same bike for 15 years and I use motor oil to lubricate my chain, you have to check it a little more often but I’ve never had a problem. People will always tell you differently as long as they are trying to sell a product!
Hi, I’m cleaning my chain but I have mixed ideas if I should be using water to rinse… this is how I read some other tutorials on how to clean the chain.
1. Degrease with rotating brush container (park tool)
2. Rinse with water? Is this safe to do?
3. Lube chain.
Alex, or anybody, do you know if rinsing in the park tool, with water is good then letting it dry out and the lubing it? Is this frowned upon?
Thank you
It is safe to rinse with water as long as you let it completely air-dry before lubricating it. I like using compressed air to blast them dry when I don’t have time to wait.
Thanks so much Alex,
I have one more question… before I just cleaned with the degreaser, and then dried it, then lubed. But after riding it gets so black again…is that because I didn’t rinse with water to get all the black stuff out? I hope you understand my question…
Thanks again!
Typically the most effective way to get ‘the black stuff’ out is to soak the chain in solvent, scrub it, blast it with pressurized water and then blast it dry with compressed air. If you don’t have access to an air compressor you can air dry it but there might always be some leftover grime in between the links.
Hey Alex, and greetings from Finland!
Thanks for a grrrreat site! The site and the videos are helpful and clear way to learn new stuff about bikes and parts. It has totally got me back into biking!
About chains and lubrication; What do you think about chainsaw oil as a bike chain lubricant? Chainsaw oil is used to lubricate fast moving chainsaw chains, so the viscosity would be suitable also for bikes. Here in Finland, I have seen lots of different chainsaw oils, some are synthetic, some are cleaned or refurbished synthetic and biodegradable or mineral-based motor oils or clear industry grade oils. 1 litre bottle of chainsaw oil costs about 3-5 euros, so it certainly would both be cheap and long lasting.
I’m riding on on these two:
2000′ Norwegian DBS Street Track -city and travel bike, and
2007′ Corratec X-Vert S.04 mountain bike
I haven’t heard of any problems with using chainsaw oil.
Hmm… I might try that sometimes, since my dad has some chainsaw oil left. Right now, I’m using PTFE-spraylubricant I bought from Biltema, a car part and accessory store. I also have some clear bike oil in a drop bottle.
I also used to put WD-40 into the chains, for not knowing any better.
I’ve been using this chain lube, it’s a wax lubricant but it works way better than any other wax I’ve ever used. It’s called Boeshield T9. It actually performs better than some wet lubes I’ve used. Have you ever heard of it?
From my experience, Boeshield T9 is the best wax lubricant on the market… I also mentioned it in this video
Alex, I have a brand new bike and the chain (KMC) is coated with a very thick and very sticky substance. Sheldon Brown says that chains come from the factory with a very good lubricating grease that should not be removed. But I’m not sure about this stuff. What do you suggest?
Is very nice video you have, I used Finish line Teflon oil, I used to apply all the chain pin. Is it necessary to do, or just applied it like in the Video (partially).
mumu
from Jakarta-Indonesia
Sheldon is right, you don’t need to worry about the packing grease. I always add an extra bit of chain lube on new chains as well.
How about an automotive gear oil? Like a 75W-90?
I’m so glad you do these tutorials they are awesome! I have a bike I haven’t used in 3 years and has gathered a bit of rust on the body as well as the chain. So, how do you know when it’s time to replace the chain instead of just cleaning it?
Dynel, generally you’ll know your chain needs replacing if it starts to skip while you’re pedaling under pressure. Otherwise you can purchase a chain wear indicator to give you a general idea of how worn it is.
I have read articles recommending chain saw bar oil as a good ol for road bike chains. They say it seeps into the chain well and it is a lot less expensive. Do you have an opinion?
Thanks!
… also that the chainsaw bar oil does not sling off.
Thanks
Sorry. Just saw the comment above about chainsaw oil being fine. By bad!
Chain saw oil will work, but if it’s thicker than bicycle chain oil it’ll be stickier and collect a lot more dirt.
I have been using an on bike chain cleaner with mineral spirits for cleaning, going over the chain with a hair dryer to help evaporate the spirits, and then, after a while, using another on bike chain cleaner to apply barchain (chainsaw) oil. Chainsaw oil does sling and drip a bit, so I work over a carpet remnant (have to do this in my living room!). There is a tackiness component in the oil that makes it very tenacious for rainy conditions. It does, however, turn black with grit in time. Typically, I clean on the weekends after about 60 miles of commuting, but after a century or bad conditions, I just look for dark residue on the cassette and clean it. Very inexpensive. I like the Finish Line teflon-based oils for carrying on long rides.
BTW, the late great Sheldon was ON THE MONEY about not wiping off the “packing grease” that comes with a new chain. The Campy grease is like pure gold, I wish I knew what they used.
You mentioned to wipe off excess oil after applying lube, but how much do we need to wipe off? How much is considered to be excess?
Wipe it off enough so that there’s no oil dripping off.
Thanks! For solvent that clean the chain, can you suggest something that is handy and easy to get from hardware store? Will paint thinner do the job?