17. How to Clean and Lubricate a Chain
Frequent chain cleaning and lubrication will help keep dirt off your chain and prevent wear.
Regular cleaning and lubrication of your chain will help prevent your drivetrain from wearing out. You should clean and lubricate the chain when it is dirty, dry or begins to sound noisy. If you ride every day, you should clean and lube the chain at least once a month.
I don't recommend using either motor oil or 3in1 oil to lubricate the chain. Motor oil is too heavy and won't fully penetrate the rollers, and 3in1 oil is vegetable based and will gum up the chain. I also don't recommend using wax lubricants because while they don't collect as much dirt, they are a lot of hassle to apply correctly, and wax is simply not as good a lubricant as oil. I do recommend mineral based chain oils like Finish Line Cross Country or Phil Wood Tenacious Oil because they do the best job of fighting corrosion and don't wash away when they get wet.
For cleaning, first shift the chain into the smallest sprocket on the rear. For average dust and dirt, wipe the chain clean with a solvent soaked rag. The easiest way to do this is to hold the chain still at the rear derailleur cage while firmly wiping the lower run of the chain. Then move the chain backward and wipe again until you've wiped the entire length of chain. Wipe between the rear sprockets using either a rag or a sprocket cleaning tool. Then clean all of the front chainrings on both sides.
Shift your gears into the middle sprocket both front and rear. Remember that oil does a good job of spreading itself, so try not to over-apply the lubricant. Lubricate the inner circumference of the chain, on the side that faces the sprockets along the top of the lower run of the chain. Run the chain backwards while dropping oil down both sides of the rollers.
Shift through all of the gears to spread the lubricant evenly through the drivetrain. Then use a rag to wipe off any excess oil.
I have an older(vintage) bicycle, it,s a 7 speed using suntour radius parts. I want to change out my chain ring. Some say compatible with 9 or 10 speed, does it really matter? If I buy the same rings as 52/42 with the right BCD.... Read more >>
I have a Bianchi with SRAM Red components. The cassette is a 11-28 10 speed. The crank is 53-39. I recently put on a new SRAM 10 speed chain and the chain skipped while riding when I was applying heavy pressure to the pedals. I then put the old chain back on and the problem went away. It feels as if the skipping is coming from the cassette rather than the crank. I tried it again with yet another new chain and had the same problem. Is it possible that the cassette has worn with the chain and it won't work with a new chain? I thought I might ask before spending the money on a new... Read more >>
Hi, need some help to find a replacement for chainrings (if thats correct name) for a 5 arm spider style crank. Old setup was 42,34,24. Having troube to find the same again, would prefer to not have to change crank. Also like how shiny the crank it is soapy water, alchohol wipes and a lot of elbow grease.
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My 1997 Trek 720 Multitrack was diagnosed at the local bike shop that the crankset, cassette, and chain need to be replaced. I think the front derailer also needs replacement. I ride for fitness so I do not care that much about the weight penalty using this older & heaver bike. I checked my online cycling log that tracks my workouts and it was says there is over 5,000 miles over the last few years. Its time to replace the original components on this bike.
I looked into buying a new bike and got sticker shock. So, I started looking into buying a used bike or fix want ... Read more >>
Was MTBing the other day and was about 9 miles in, a 16 mile ride, and a couple hours of daylight left, when the 9 speed KMC quick link broke on my chain. As soon as I saw what happened, I started to think, "This is going to be a long walk back!". I calmed down some and thought, "I believe I put a extra quick link in my backpack." Sure enough, I did. Whew!... I had a single speed link and a 6,7 and 8 speed quick link. I then relized I was riding a 9 speed MTB. Well, to make a long story short, I tried the 6,7 and 8 speed quick link and it seemed to work fine and got me... Read more >>
I hope you can help me. I bought a new 26" MTB rear wheel online and it has a Shimano Deore hub, I was trying to attach a new CS-HG20-7 Shimano Hyperglide Sprocket (with 7 gears and 12-28 teeth), but it seems the "Sprocket socket" (I am not sure what it is called) is slightly longer then needed, I could theoretically fit another gear cog.
Are there some kind of "spacers or washers" available? If yes, what are these things called?
Or did I mess something up? Is this normal?
I am new to bike repairs,... Read more >>
This might be a dumb question/problem...
Today I took my cassette off and I forgot to keep it in order so now the spacers and cogs are all out of order.
Does anyone know how to reorder the spacers (some are different thicknesses) and gears correctly?
It is a SRAM Red cassette.... Read more >>
Does anyone know if Ultegra 6800 cassette will work on Dura Ace 9000 group? If not do you know if Shimano has fixed the issues they had with the 9000 cassettes?
Thanks... Read more >>
I removed and replaced the cassette on my bike (making no changes). Now I find that when the wheel is under load the chain climbs up on the teeth of the smallest sprocket (see photo).
Everything works fine with the other gears or when the wheel spins freely. This seems to be the *opposite* effect I'd expect if the chain had stretched or the gear teeth were worn. Instead, the pitch of the chain seems too short, not too long. Can anyone explain what's happening and how I can fix it?... Read more >>
Hi all. i am new here and generally also pretty new to doing anything with my bicycle myself.
I was driving my bicycle today and suddenly noticed that the rear chain ring got completely detached
from the hub and was just free rotating. I never before had a closer look at how it looks like, so I have no idea, what exactly got broken. Now it looks like that:
[img] Read more >>
Does anyone know the correct tool for this freewheel removal. The Park FR2 is too small.
The freewheel comes from a 1980s Raleigh Record. I've tried two local bike shops with no joy.
It has a Maillard stamp.
Thanks and Regards
... Read more >>
How do I get from this
The first picture is the model I have sachs LY 94. 8 speed 12-21. I have the freewheel and cassette off the wheel like in the ... Read more >>
Hi, this is my first post to the forum! I have an old Focus MTB, bought it just recently second hand and I am also new to biking so please excuse me for being naive.
The problem started after the first miles with the bicycle, hearing a noise from the back. It was getting louder and louder very quickly and now, when I am pedaling everything is normal but when I stop and keep the pedals still, while on the road, the chain turns really loose and even goes out of the ring. This happens all the time. Tried with some lube and also tried to see if there is an obvious problem with the chain b... Read more >>
Removing SOLEUS freewheel DIY without a remover, garage style tip for everyone...
I was trying to clean and grease my wheel bearings, looks like removing the free wheel is a must do type of thing on my bike. I found that a regular old school Chevy GM craiger style lug nut fit in there perfectly. I think its ... Read more >>
I have. 2015 Defy 5. It has a FSA Tempo, 34/50 crankset.
Is this compatible with the Shimano 5800 group set? I currently have this setup with my Defy 5. She shifts a little rough on the front dérailleur. I guess what I am wondering is if I need to upgrade the crankset to the 5800? The bike came with a Claris setup. What I do not know is if there is an issue with 'spacing'. My current setup has 5800 shifters, FD, RD, chain and cassette (16 tooth removed and no indexing issues).... Read more >>