2. Why WD-40 is Bad for Your Bike Chain
Using WD-40 as a chain lube can actually damage your chain.
IMPORTANT: Nuts and bolts on your bike should always be tightened to the manufacturer's specifications.
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- 00:12 - The product actually began from a search for a rust preventative solvent and de-greaser to protect missile parts.
Near the end of last week’s tutorial, I mentioned that WD-40 should never be used as a chain lubricant. Quite a few people wanted to know what I meant by that. Here’s an explanation.
WD-40 was developed by the military in the 50s as a rust preventative solvent and de-greaser to protect missile parts. It quickly became a household item when people discovered it had thousands of other uses as a cleaner, rust-prevention agent, squeak-stopper and more. It also works wonders as a light lubricant on small items like hinges, locks, and toys.
Bicycle chains, on the other hand, are far too heavy and fast-moving for the lubricating power of WD-40 to have any effect at all. As a matter of fact, WD-40 will actually strip away any existing lubricant and leave your drivetrain dry – metal on metal. Basically, spraying this stuff on your chain is worse than using no lubricant at all!
Obviously, I strongly recommend using chain oil purchased from your local bike shop. Just go down there and ask them for regular waterproof chain oil. It shouldn’t be any more than 10 or 12 bucks, and it’s the best thing you can buy for your bike. My personal favorite is Cross Country, but if you want the Caviar, you can get quality oils from companies like Phil Wood. We’ll talk more about lubricants later…
Recommended Books:
- Zinn & MTB
Mountain Bikes: Maintenance, repair, and troubleshooting. - Zinn & Road
Road Bikes: Maintenance, repair, and troubleshooting. - Sutherland's Manual
Sutherland's handbook for bicycle mechanics on CD-ROM. - Park Blue Book
Hundreds of photos and hundreds of procedures.
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52 Responses to “Why WD-40 is Bad for Your Bike Chain”
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and oh, if you have a maintenance/repair question, please ask in the help forums.
Recommended Chain Lubes:
- X-Country Lube
Recommended for both dry and wet riding conditions. - Phil Wood Oil
Extra-heavy duty chain oil. Also good for older 3-spd hubs. - Boeshield T-9
Wax based, excellent for dry riding conditions. - Essential Tool Kit
Includes tools needed for many basic adjustments and repairs. - Starter Tool Kit
11 genuine Park Tool products & a custom Park Tool toolbox. - Advanced Tool Kit
The AK-37 includes all the most frequently used tools.
Enjoying the vids, looking forward to seeing more.
I know better now, but this does explain why I broke so many chains when I was a kid. It couldn’t have been the fact that I was a kid and hard on my bike. It must have been the WD-40.
I put WD-40 inside my cable housing (on the cable and shifted gears) but luckily haven’t put it on the chain yet. Thanks for showing me the light.
Great advise. Although, I’m a locksmith and we don’t generally like WD40 used on locks. WD40 has silicone in it for the waterproofing which creates suction in small complex devices like locks. The suction causes parts to get stuck or move too slow for proper operation. We recommend high quality light lubricants like bike chain oil! : )
Was planning to buy WD-40, thanks for the timely advice. Won’t use it anymore.
I use WD-40 all the time to CLEAN chains. Its great on really dirty & rusty chains. Come back the next day and use a real lube. Don’t forget to lube your STI levers every time you lube your chain. They go bad from neglect and cost a whole more than a chain.
WD-40 is good for cleaning like Ragbrai said, but it’s heavier and stickier – it collects dirt (I’m sure I could do a scientific experiment to back up the data, but for now, my experience suits me just fine).
Instead of that especial chain’s oil, can I use car engine’s oil without any problems?
Thanks
Ricardo, I’ve never used motor oil on a chain, but some people have. I’ve heard that it is very sticky and will collect a lot of dirt. Some people have had success mixing motor oil 50:50 with mineral oil.
Ok thank you very much. I’ve heard that using lubricant or not, is indifferent. Would it be better if I didn’t use lubricant?
Thank you.
Yes, lubrication is very important – it prevents wear and greatly improves your shifting.
Ok,. I’ll follow your advice.
Thank you very much.
First of all, congratulations on the website!!!
I have a motorbike and since I often buy chain oil and another solution which is for cleaning the chain before lubricating, and I am just wondering if I can use them safely for my bicycle as well (so that I save some space in my small spare-room). So, can I use them, or will that hurt the bicycle chain?
Thanks!
Hi Kostas,
I’m not sure what kind of oil you’re using on your motorbike, but I’m sure it will work fine on your bike too. Just make sure to clean off any excess lube so that it doesn’t collect dirt and grime.
Howdy–
I have finally convinced my father that WD isn’t a lube, and he has found better alternatives. However, I also have to add that he’s a fastidious mechanic who’s been riding the same Trek touring bike since the 70s, when Trek was a frame shop. He built it up himself, and he’s kept it meticulously clean while riding it daily. He’s never had a squeak, and he doesn’t suffer excess wear.
This is where I have to disagree on one point. The heat and load requirements of a bicycle chain, from an engineering standpoint, are relatively low, as are its lubrication requirements. Since most any amount of lube picks up dirt, the less the better. If a chain isn’t squeaking (or, more specifically, the rear derailleur pulleys aren’t, as they usually squeak first), binding or rusting, it’s well enough lubed. WD-40, I grudgingly admit, has done a fair job of those things for dad over the years. I believe that’s because he applied it often, and always wiped off the excess, which means he’s had remarkably clean chains with just a hint of residual lube (WD-40 does contain some).
Personally, I use it as a cleaner. It is great for removing the slurry of oil and dust that forms on a chain. It will also revive Rapidfire shifters which have lost their ratchet, though it doesn’t usually perform the same magic on STI.
Another mechanic in a shop where I worked would use it to hose down neglected bikes, top to bottom. When he wiped it off, they would shine. “See, you can polish a turd,” he’d say. He called WD “Turd Polish.”
While I agree that WD isn’t a good chain lube, I don’t think Phil’s Tenacious is a better choice. It’s much too sticky; it will be a dust magnet, and the resulting slurry will kill your chain quicker than running dry–not too mention leaving an ugly chainring tattoo on your calf.
Happy Trails,
Ron Georg
Moab, UT
Crubs,
Try rock n roll’s cable magic inside your cable housing. it works better (and smells better!) than wd-40.
Nice to see that this word is finally getting around. As noted earlier though, WD-40 is about the best damn chain cleaner you can get. I generally hit both motorcycle O-ring chains and bike chains with WD and a rag to clean off the Schmutz, then a moderatly priced specific chain lube.
One thing worth noting too is that a $20 can of fancy lube is about the same effectiveness as a $10 can of no-name chain lube as long as you clean and relube dilligently.
Great Tutorials. Maintaining a chain is more than a one step process. I use WD-40 as a cleaner after every couple of rides followed by a good wiping with a clean rag. Then apply the oil (Yes, I prefer the Cross Country synthetic too!) Did the same thing with motorcycles over the years and never had any chain issues. WD-40 alone doesn’t cut it. Glad you brought it up.
Good advice. I used to see so many people with squeaky chains… and this is why.
Thanks,
Les.
WD-40 has to have some of the most pernicious and varied lore surrounding it. Bike forums are full of it… it’s only a degreaser, it’s only for displacing water, it stops rust, it causes rust, crime, global warming, you name it. The truth is more mundane.
It’s mostly a kerosene-like solvent, with some mineral oil added. Not surprisingly, it does work well as a degreaser. It also leaves behind oil once the solvent evaporates. The result is WD-40 works OK as a chain lube.
Basically, any oil will suffice for chains. Light oils (lighter than common motor oils) penetrate tight tolerances easy. They also run out just as easily. Heavy oils (gear oil, thicker than motor oils) may last longer, but tend to collect dust more. Additionally, they may have a more difficult time penetrating, so more time and care may be needed for it’s application. Common motor oils (30wt) are a bit between the two. I’m pretty skeptical of dry lubes. Forget about wax.
The idea that WD-40, however, will leave your chain dry is just plain wrong. The chain will be lubed. It will be lubed in areas where it mostly can’t be seen. I use the stuff exclusively on chains with NO ill results. Re-apply every month or two, or depending on how conditions dictate.
One thing that needs to be kept in mind is that chains are consumables, particularly if you have a derailer (if you don’t have one, they seem to last forever). Spend less time maintaining the chain and more time just replacing it on a regular basis. Saves lots if headaches, time, and maintenance in the long run.
If you use wd40 on a chain you basically remove all the lubricant with the solvents. It contains more than 60% petroleum based solvents which wash out any oil applied. There is so much evidence from knowledgeable sources against using wd40 as a chain lubricant that you’d have to pretty dumb to continue using it. Some of you here are not listening.
What about using it as a chain cleaner? I use it as a first pass to clean the chain, followed by a proper lube.
WD40 will work fine as a cleaner, as long as you lubricate the chain with oil afterwards.
What exactly is the empirical evidence that WD 40 is not a suitable chain lube? It’s all anecdotal at best. My own anecdotal evidence indicates it’s sufficient for bike chains.
Straight from the can, being solvent and oil, it acts as a thin lubricant. As the solvent evaporates away, the oil is left behind. Which still acts as a lubricant. What’s so dumb about that?
Dear Alex,
Thanks a bunch for the advice, I’ll be sure to always use bike lube. WD-40 was applied to my chain one time, and then I rode it for a short distance (around 5 miles). Do you think this caused any wear or damage to the chain, gears, etc.? Also, what do you think is the best lube for mountain bikes that get wet or dirty a lot? Is White Lightning a brand you would recommend (it says it repels dirt on the bottle)? Thanks!
Cheers,
Alex
How To Choose the Right Lubricants
Hi Alex,
Your chain should be fine after 5 miles with WD-40.
White Lighting is a good brand, and there’s another one called Boeshield which is supposed to be even better.
However, wax lubricants take a lot of care. You have to have them spotless clean before you apply it, and again when you apply it the next time. They are supposed to repel dirt better than regular lubes, but they are not as good for actual lubrication. I talk a bit about it in the chain maintenance video and I plan to dedicate a whole video to lubrication at some point…
This debate has been around for a long, looong time. Coming from the motorcycle world I’ve seen it quite a bit. I’d say there’s an even 50/50 split of people who say it’s the best vs. it’s the worst. I have heard cases on both sides. I know a couple people who have exclusively used wd on their chains and seen exceptional life. I, also, have seen people who use it and see chain failure. So, as was mentioned before, it’s all anecdotal. It DOES function as a thin lubricant (which is why it makes your squeaky door hinge quiet), and will penetrate very well.
The real answer, inevitably becomes; use what makes you most comfortable. Most likely your chain is going to last as long as it should with either method. But, as was mentioned earlier, the chain is an expendable part. Just the nature of the beast.
I’ve used wax for years as my lubricant. Good old plain paraffin wax. Heated in a “double boiler” No oil to attract dirt, no WD to wear. Cat 2 woman racer 74-77, 82-89, state champion TT in 89, etc etc. Wax on the chain works fine. I’m using some commercial lube now for the mtb chain, too lazy to wax it. You might want to do a demo on how to wax a chain.
Status of this Request
Hi Donna, I’ve added your request to the list… I’ll let you know when it is posted
OK, so WD-40 isn’t the best lube – but what about similar aerosol products that contain Teflon such as Finishline – this is marketed as general purpose bike lube and, unlike oil, does not seem to attract as much dirt. Any thoughts?
Finish Line teflon lubes work great!
IMO, paraffin is less than optimal. With oils (and WD40, btw), the wear surfaces are replenished quickly as the liquid wicks back into those tight spots. Not so with wax, where it is displaced from the wear surfaces relatively quickly. Being much less fluid, it doesn’t replenish the wear surfaces, but rather gathers in areas where it isn’t actually used. As a result, the chain needs to be re-waxed very often, a laborious job even for the most anal chain lube fetishists, just to ensure that the chain remains decently lubricated in use. Oil, any oil, offers better ease of use, at the expense of attracting dirt. An advantage paraffin does have. Perhaps the only advantage.
Based on many blogs, forums, anecdotes and personal experience, it would seem to go like this;
No lube: doesn’t effect efficiency in the short term, but the wear and tear it creates will, not to mention the rust.
WD40: Great degreaser. Residue works like a very VERY light oil, good in short term, but not so great when combined with high weekly mileage and rain. Can be used, but application should be weekly at a minimum. The stuff evaporates.
Chain specific oil: Thicker, but not so much so that it doesn’t penetrate. Better in the rain then WD40, application every month. Attracts dirt to varying degrees.
Wax Lubes: Not great penetration, but when it heats up works much as oil does. Pain to apply. Chain (in my personal experience) can still rust, as waxless bare metal patches can develop.
Wax Coating: A lot of work, but very clean. Recumbent riders seem to love it – suggest it can last up to 10,000k.
I started (as many people seem to) with WD, then moved on to oil, then to White Lightning, and then back to oil. Whenever the chain gets dry and gunky, I take it off with a chain breaker, spray it with WD40, wipe it clean, then wash it with warm dish water (good to incorporate other household chores into the routine!), wipe it dry, then let it air out. I then wash and rag dry the cogs and cassette, reattach the chain, and lube each link with chain oil (currently Motorex Bikeline) more or less as per the video.
Alex: My only concerns are that I might be rinsing out some of the hub bearing grease when I wash down the cassette, and that repeated chain breaking might be putting unnecessary stress on the links. What do you think?
I would remove the cassette before you wash it, to prevent washing the grease out of your hub. As for repeated chain breaks, it shouldn’t be a problem… I’ll do a video on this soon!
I once took a sewing machine in for repair. I started telling him I had used WD40 as a… got no further then that he was freaking on me. “as a cleaner prior to using sewing machine oil” is what I had intended to say.
I have used wd40 many times on a chain to get it loosened up after rusting outside. It also works as well as gas or paint thinners for washing old oil off the chain. Aside from loosening rust it is great for REMOVING oil. Working in the automotive industry, when car door hinges and locks were worn out it was because the customer had been ‘oiling’ them with, guess what? WD40 .
The company should be made put a disclaimer on the label. “This is not oil!”
Chain saw bar oil works good and is cheap, and any roller chain non-slinging lubricant works well also, but needs to be cleaned regularly, because it is thick and collects ground dirt.
Nice Site,
Thank You
I have used Fishing Reel oil before its very portable and has a nice needle dropper to get into more precise areas.
$10-12?? I was thinking more like $6, unless your getting more volume. Triflow is great stuff and comes with a straw. Dont ever lose the straw! its what makes triflow so useful.
“White Lighting is a good brand, and there’s another one called Boeshield which is supposed to be even better.”
Boeshield T-9 is originally for use on aircraft components by the Boeing Corp. in Washington state. It states on the label:
“Boeshield T-9 penetrates, cleans and dries to a waxy film that lubricates and protects for months.”
It does as it says – and very well.
Oh boy, here we go again (settles into comfy chain with popcorn).
It is very true that WD-40 sucks as a lube. It is also true that there are tons of wonderful lubes out there, so which one is best?
Answer: It really depends on your style and location. IF you live in the hot and dry, then most “dry” lubes work pretty well. Boeshield is actually a pretty good choice. So are waxy lubes like white lightning. If you live in wet, grimy conditions (I live in Seattle) then something a little “wetter” like tri-flow works well. Oil is great. It penetrates and lasts for a long time, but you have to be very careful to get all the excess off. Phil’s tenacious is wonderful stuff, but it is so sticky that unless you get your chain very clean AFTER you apply the oil, you will attract so much grit into your drivetrain that the oil will end up destroying your components.
I asked my local bike shop how they clean the chains and they use WD-40 on a rag if the chain is slightly dirty or with a toothbrush for real dirty chains. Then wipe any leftover WD-40 off with a clean rag and apply chain oil. Works great for me.
has anyone used powdered graphite as a cable lube? its dry, cheap and fairly easy to apply.
This is a great and informative site, wished that I had found it before. I always figured that WD 40 was okay as a chain lube and it seemed to work okay for me but then I am a very low mileage rider, however I will certaintly use a chain lube from now on.
Geez. I just bought a nice (and expensive) bike and the first thing I did was adjust the seat and put on some W-D 40. I will go out and re-lube with some good bike oil. Thank goodness I saw this before it was too late.
I commute 6,000 miles a year by bicycle and have found by experience that the best low-cost, efficient, all-purpose bicycle lubricant for me is a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and Rislone engine treatment. The blend is a nice light purple color, since ATF is red and Rislone is blue. The mixture penetrates well (thanks to the Rislone) and reduces friction equally well since ATF is intended for gears (rather than engine crankcases). I use a drop oiler to apply the oil. The mix is good down to about zero degrees, which is as cold as I ride. It works fine on chains.
How long do my chains last? About 1,000 miles in winter snow and salt; up to 2,500 miles in warm dry summer weather.
So how do you apply the oil without it just running off the chain? Is there a spray-on oil you would recommend?
Hi,
How would you recommend i de-rust then lube my chain? Perhaps WD-40 to de-rust, then lube? Or buy a chain cheaner (will this de-rust?) Then lube? It’s not severe rust, but i’d like to nip it in the bud now, and lube up ready for the winter rides ahead.
Kind Regards
Kay
The best thing is to use motor oil.
Just found this site and already have learned that I shouldn’t be using WD40 on my chain. Now I know why I’m getting slower and relieved that it wasn’t the 5kg that I put on over the winter.
But seriously will give the ATF and chain saw oils a go after this.
Thanks
Jon
Better to use graphite on locks and 3&1 on hinges rather than WD-40. They essentially have the same problem as bike chains– WD-40 acts as a solvent and removes any existing lube, then it evaporates leaving you with less than you started with. WD-40 is good for short-term uses– as it EVAPORATES, guys…
I use Finish Line WET Bicycle Chain Lube (which I bought a local bike shop today) and it works. Guess it’s time for me to ditch the WD-40.
Great vid, by the way.