31. How to Replace a GripShift Cable
Learn how to disassemble and reassemble a twist shifter to replace the inner shift cable.
Today we’ll learn how to replace a Sram GripShift(R) style shifter cable. For this job, you’ll need a replacement shift cable and end cap, a 2.5mm allen key to open the grip shifter, a 5mm allen key or 9mm open end wrench to loosen the derailleur pinch bolt and brake levers, a cable cutter to trim the cable and pinch the cap, some light oil to lube the cable housings and a tiny bit of waterproof grease for inside the shifter.
The first step is to remove the old cable. Shift either your front or rear derailleur to the smallest sprocket and cut the old cable cap off. Then loosen the pinch bolt and slide the inner cable out of the derailleur and cable housings.
Now loosen your brake lever and slide it along the handlebar so we have room to open the grip shifter unit. Turn the shifter to the highest gear if you’re replacing the rear cable, or the lowest gear if you’re replacing the front. You’ll notice a small allen bolt on the outside of the shifter body. Loosen this off but don’t un-thread it completely as they are really easy to lose.
Once the shifter turns freely on the handlebar, jiggle and pull the grip apart until it separates into two parts. Sometimes it helps to very gently pry it open with a flat screwdriver.
Now you’ll have to be extra careful. The first thing watch for is a tiny piece of oddly-shaped metal sitting on the inside of the shifter. It’s really important to keep that spring exactly where it is as the shifter won’t function without it. Slide the old cable out of the shifter and pay careful attention to how it was wrapped around inside the shifter. The cable usually wraps around once and sits in a little groove.
Apply a tiny dab of grease to the grooves where the cable sits inside the shifter. Slide the new cable back into the shifter, loosely wrap it around once, and then slide it through the shifter body. Now pull the cable tight and set it down into the shifter grooves the same way it came out. If it looks right, push the two parts of the shifter back together and try turning the shifter. If the cable is installed correctly it should click and turn normally. Slide your brake lever back into position and tighten it. Now turn the shifter so the cable is tucked up under the brake lever and tighten it as well.
Drop a little bit of light oil into the cable housings before installing the new cable. Thread the inner cable back through the housings and the derailleur pinch bolt. Make sure your shifter is in the smallest sprocket and then pull the cable tight and tighten the bolt. Now run through the gears and adjust your front or rear derailleur as needed.
The last step is to cut the excess cable off about two inches past the pinch bolt. Then slide on the aluminum cap and just partially squish it 2 or 3 times with your cable cutter so that it stays on. This will keep the cable from fraying.
I'm putting my plan together to fix up a Fuji Allegro, and I'm curious if I can tuck the cable housing for the brakes under the handlebar tape, or if it must be above. Not a deal breaker either way, just curious if it is a functional idea.... Read more >>
[attachment=4841]I have a non-branded carbon fiber TT bike (Cervelo P3) purchased on the internet. It looks very similar to the picture posted. The problem is once the shift cables are installed and adjusted the shifting only works a couple of times or less and then hangs up and the cable binds up somehow and the bike will not change gears. When you take the tension off, the cable will slide back and forth thru the housing without hanging up. Has anyone experienced this before? Is there a way to replace the internal housing? I think the frame is not hollow and has plates that the hou... Read more >>
So I bought a new Schwinn bike to replace my old one that got stolen, and on the first set of gears (the ones connected to the pedals) the cable wasn't taught enough to switch gears. So, I researched, and found that the cable had to be tighter. So I thightened it. Now it goes up to 3 from the first gear, but it won't go down to the 2nd gear. So I turned the dial to one, and it went to one. It won't go to the second gear even though the dial says it is. What should I adjust to fix this? I ride long distances, and up bridges, so this is kind of a big problem.... Read more >>
Can anyone tell me the difference between galvanised and stainless steel cables/wires? From what I have read online, stainless steel doesn't rust. I have bought some cables, so how do I check what material it is?
Thank you... Read more >>
Hi! Newcomer here.
I am the proud owner of a KTM Ultra Fun So far it has been nothing but joy, until recently the right-hand gear-shift cable decided to burst and detach from the gear-shift lever (Shimano ST M410) in the middle of a ride, part of the cable remaining inside...
The first pic below shows the large fraction of cable as I was able to retrieve. The second one zooms into the broken end.
[attachment=4411... Read more >>
Ok, I was cleaning my bike and as I was wiping down the seat tube, the front derailleur cable flung out, as the allen screw wasn't very tight...
I looked up several videos and followed them to the best of my ability, but I can't get the slack out of the cable...
I thought that the white things on the cable housing in the 3rd picture were the barrel adjusters referred to in videos, but turning them has no effect.
Please help ... Read more >>
Hi all, my friends road bike is knackard and it's up to me to fix it. I've compeltely overhauled the bike and it's running fantastic apart from one minor, annoying little problem.
The bike used to use those horrible lever-pull shifters below the handlebars however I changed to a pair of Shimano 7-speed rapid-fire shifters with integrated brake levers and the problem now is that the frame lacks the neccesary cable stop boss, and so far I've been using duct-tape and a bunch of cable-ties however this is just not strong enough and the cable is moving when shifting the gears on the re... Read more >>
I have just replaced the rear gear cable, the bike now runs and shifts okay but in certain gears there is either a clicking sound or the chain jumps a gear unexpectedly. Is this a tensioning issue? I have tried adjusting the mech via the rear barrel adjuster but it hasn't really helped...... Read more >>
[attachment=4121][attachment=4121]I have a Sillhoutte and the shifter cable housing has a 90 deg. bend at the downtube connection.The opposite side shifter does not have this bend.Is this a possible bend that has been done by an incorrect cable housing routing.It just looks to be to much of a drastic bend.... Read more >>
I'm attempting to put new on a bike where I never saw the old housing. I have a center pull cantilever brake and I'm wondering if anything has to go on the end of the housing before the cable connects to the link wire.... Read more >>
My cable guide on bottom bracket is a press on type and doesn't have a screw.
Looked around the 'net for a replacement but all of them have a screw.
This is for an older Black Diamond, "Ascent" model mountain bike that I just got and need to get in shape.
thanks... Read more >>
New guy here again.
I will be replacing brake and shift cables on my 43 year old Raleigh Grand Prix. It's been hanging from my rafters for 20+ years, and the cables are old, dry, rusty and ready to snap. Before that happens, I'd like to replace them, but not sure where to start. Will I need any sort of special tools? Also, are there specific cables I'll need to source for this old bike? ANY advice on replacing the cables will be greatly appreciated!
TIA!... Read more >>
I inherited 2001 LeMond road bike recently and I want to add inline cable adjusters to the shifting cables (the existing adjusters are rusted and don't work anymore). I was planning on buying a new shifter cable and housing set, but now I'm wondering if I should keep the existing housing and just replace the cable. The housing seems to be in good shape, but is probably 5+ years old.
The cable and housing set I'm looking at is Aztec shifter cable and housing.
As for raw cable, any advantage to PTFE coating vs. stainless steel?... Read more >>
I own a 2013 Trek 7.2 FX, and the front brake shoe stopped working up to par, so I decided that I needed to upgrade it. I'm getting a Avid Single Digit 7, and well, I need a brake cable. The one I own now it frayed, so I can't really use it, so what would you recommend?... Read more >>
I have got a Giant bike from mid 80's. Rear derailleur is Harnet. The adjuster barrel is totally seized up, tried it giving a few WD40 baths, nothing working.
Now the question is :
Is the RD cable barrel adjuster really required as I am having downtube shifters so I can accurately adjust the RD at a position where it runs without any clicks or dongs.....Still confused about it.... Read more >>