49. How To Install a Rear Derailleur
Removal and installation of a standard bolt-on rear derailleur.
In this tutorial we’ll learn how to replace a standard bolt-on rear derailleur.
For this job you’ll need a 5mm hex key for the derailleur’s mounting bolt, and a 2.5mm or 3mm hex key for the jockey wheels if you will not be removing the chain to clean or replace it. If you are removing the chain you may need a chain tool depending on your type of chain. You’ll also need wire cutters and a 9 or 10mm metric open end wrench, or a 5 or 6mm hex key to remove and install the rear shift cable. The last thing you’ll need is a phillips (+) screwdriver for adjusting the derailleur’s limit screws.
The first step is to shift your chain onto the smallest rear sprocket. Then pull off the shift cable’s end cap and loosen the cable pinch bolt. Remove the cable from the derailleur.
Now you’ll need to remove the chain from the derailleur. Some chains have a special connector pin that need replacing if removed, so if you don’t need to remove the chain for cleaning or replacement you can simply remove the lower jockey wheel and rotate the cage plate to release the chain. If you are removing the chain, disconnect a link and pull the chain through the jockey wheels.
Now you can unthread the derailleur’s mounting bolt all the way counter clockwise to remove the derailleur.
Before installing the new rear derailleur, apply some waterproof grease to the mounting bolt. Then thread it part way into the derailleur hanger, and rotate it clockwise to make sure the b-screw or tab is sitting behind the flat on the back of the hanger. Then fully tighten the mounting bolt.
If your chain is still on the bike, undo the bottom jockey wheel and thread the chain over the top pulley. Then re-install the lower jockey wheel. If you have removed the chain, re-route the chain through the jockey wheels and reconnect it. Search the site for tutorials on how to use a chain tool or a quick release chain link.
Now preset the high-limit (H) screw so the upper jockey wheel is roughly in line with the smallest sprocket when viewed from behind.
Thread the shift cable back into the derailleur, pull it tight and tighten the anchor bolt so the cable flattens. Then find a bare stretch of cable and give it a good pull to make sure the cable is seated and has no slack. Then loosen the cable, pull it tight again and re-tighten it.
Now you’ll need to adjust the rear derailleur as shown in previous tutorials. If necessary, trim the cable so there is about 2 inches remaining. Then slide on a cable end cap and crimp it in place.
I don't exactly know how it happened. I've been trying to fix it for days but nothing works.
So let's say you had a 1-9spd derailleur:
If we would want to shift to the biggest cog we would go to the 1st gear, and if we would want to shift to the smallest cog we would go the the 9th gear. BUT that's not the case in my rear derailleur. I could only go to the 2nd smallest cog, and if I would want to shift to the biggest could I would only have to shift 8 times, this means that I would have 1 more shif... Read more >>
i dont know whats really going on but when i was riding my $300 swiss mountain bike i took a brake then got on and tried to peddle. it spawn around w/o catching the back tire. i checked to see if the chain was on, it was. i was having very slow reaction with the front gears with alot of noise before this. i have not used this bike no more then 4-6 times.
if anyone can help thanks. if i can repair it my self i would rather do that since i dont have cash for a repair person..
(but i did notice it started to catch when i go down the drive way (going somewhat speed... Read more >>
I'm a real novice at this so please make allowances! I was having trouble (front derailleur) shifting up from first to second. When I flicked the shift lever into 2nd, the cage would move across seemingly correctly, but the chain would struggle, make a lot of noise and refuse to shift up. If I pushed the shift lever over a little more - towards 3rd - and held it for a couple of seconds, the chain would move up on to 2nd position and stay there OK. I tried to correct this by increasing the tension a little on the shift wire. The result of that was that it shifts up to 2nd correctly, but wo... Read more >>
I'm re-bearing, lubing, and overhauling my wife's 1969-70 Gitane Grand Sport Mixte, and I'm showing here the 'status' of the re-build... Expenses so far: ! $40.00 if I split the cost of tools in half!
Overall she's happy with the improvements in bearings and lube, and she's 'buying' the improvements in the braking system that hasn't arrived yet... but..
As only a wife can do... She says: "You know, I like the location: (Stem Shifters) of what you have on 'YOUR BIKE', and wish I had the same on: "My Bike"...... I have to reach too far to change gears..... Read more >>
Looking the bike over for needed parts, this one is the most obvious...right (rear) shifter pod's indicator lens is gone. It's an older 18 speed Gary Fisher Tassajara with Shimano Deore shift components...dual lever (rapid fire?).
Left pod is numbered 3 2 1 from left to right. Any suggestions on what to look for as a replacement? Plan on replacing both cables, etc. while I'm at it.
Thanks in advance!... Read more >>
Hi I have a Orbea Onix T105 Road Bike which is 10 speed but would like 11 speed, is it a nightmare to do or do i just buy 11 speed cassette and switch it over ?... Read more >>
Hi, I just buy New Shimano XTR m980 shifters, I took it off from the box and tried to shift up and down. I realized that it's so hard to downshift the right shifter. Other things work amazing.
Would anybody tell me how fix that?... Read more >>
I've just gotten my 1980s road bike running again. I'm loving it, except that after over a decade of integrated gear levers, I'm finding the old-school stem-mounted friction levers quite awkward. I've just become too used to being able to change gears while braking, which feels essential for manoeuvring in real-life city traffic.
I'm wondering how realistic a task it would be to upgrade them to use combo style levers. I know I'd probably have to replace the entire gear system, but I think it'd be worth it. But do indexed gear systems take up more space on the a... Read more >>
I bought a set of Aluminum with Ball Bearing Pulleys for my early 80's Peugeot. But before I could receive them, my Wife's 1970 Gitane pulleys broke/crumbled on a ride.. Both Gitane & Peugeot use similar Simplex systems.
They were the ONLY 10 Tooth 6MM pulleys I could find.
When I got them this past weekend, I put them on the Gitane, but found the shim type pulleys were 10.5MM thick, and the aluminum BB pulleys were 6.5MM wide. Chain rubs against side mounts. I found M6 Stainless Steel washers, and put one on each side of new pulleys.. Chain clears the s... Read more >>
Currently going through a DIY upgrade of my road bike. Already made the mistake of trying to turn a 9 speed into a 10 speed but am too stubborn to go back and it's kind of fun to learn how it all works. I now have an Ultegra 6700 10 speed cassette and need to pair it with a new 10 speed shifter. I have been reading about actuation ratios and want to make sure the shifter is compatible. Would a Shimano 105 5700 STI lever fit with this 6700 series Ultegra cassette? Also would I need to upgrade my rear derailleur which is a 105 9 speed or could it do in a pinch?
Thanks... Read more >>
I recently purchased a new 2013 BMC Race Machine with a full Red grupo. Despite everything I had read about the Red Yaw FD and its ability to handle the entire gear range without trimming, I experienced chain rub. So, I decided I would simply take the time to learn how to adjust the FD myself.
I made several mistakes, and I would love any and all assistance:
1. I neglected to tighten the inner limit screw so that the FD was over the big ring, prior to releasing the cable. My understanding is that, having done this, it will be very difficult fo... Read more >>
OK, so a while ago I noticed to get into the lowest gear (largest sprocket) on the rear I had to apply extra pressure onto the shift-lever.
Now my bike does not even get past fourth gear, this is whilst it is on supposed 1st gear (on the shifter). At the moment it only has a range of 3 available sprockets to use. Also, on the gear shifter, it only goes from 1, to 2, then only just onto 3 (it feels extremely weak, rather than 'clicking' like the front gear shifter does), the rear shifter is not able to go into 4.
I decided to open up the rear shifter and see if there was anything w... Read more >>
Hi, whenever I've got a 6 speed mountain bike, but whenever I switch into the lowest gear, the chain slips off of the freewheel into the frame and is a paint to pull out again. When I put the bike up into the stand, it switches to lowest gear fine without coming off at all. It seems the pressure of my feet on the pedals makes it slip off. Just wondered if you had any suggestions? thanks.... Read more >>
I am trying to upgrade my 50/34T 105 chainset to an Ultegra 6800 46/36T system with all the appropriate 6800 components
Unfortunately there is not enough adjustment on the braze on front derailleur to enable me to achieve the recommended 1 - 3mm gap between the top of the big ring teeth and the bottom of the derailleur. The closest I can get is 4.5mm due to the smaller diameter of the 46t chainring.
I am not sure how critical this is but if it is critical to the smooth working of the system then the only solution I can see is to buy a new 50/34T Ultegra chainset which I don't reall... Read more >>
My son Supercycle 1800 has Falcon FIS 6 speed thumb shifter, which is stuck in 2nd gear and its lever is also broken.
I would like to replace it but could not find anything which worth cost, especially which is with in my rice range ( as the bike itself is not expensive)... Most of the time cost goes up because of shipping cost to Ontario, Canada.
I was wondering if someone could tell me what is compatible with Falcon Derailleurs? As that will help me pick alternates for thumb shifter..
Thanks in advance... Read more >>