50. How To Install a Front Derailleur
Removal and installation of a standard clamp-on front derailleur.
Today we’ll learn how to replace a standard band-type clamp-on front derailleur. We’ll cover the E-Type bottom bracket mounted derailleurs in a future tutorial.
For this job you’ll need a 5mm hex key for the derailleur’s mounting bolt, and a phillips(+) screwdriver to adjust the derailleur’s limit screws and remove the derailleur cage bolt. If you are removing the chain you may need a chain tool depending on your type of chain. You’ll also need wire cutters and either a 9 or 10mm metric open end wrench or a 5 or 6mm hex key to remove and install the front shift cable.
The first step is to shift your chain onto the smallest front chainring. Then pull off the shift cable’s end cap and loosen the cable pinch bolt. Remove the cable from the derailleur.
Now you’ll need to remove the chain from the derailleur. Some chains have a special connector pin that need replacing if removed, so if you don’t need to remove the chain for cleaning or replacement you can simply undo the derailleur cage’s tail screw and flex the cage open to release the chain. Rest the chain on the bottom bracket shell to keep it out of the way.
If you are removing the chain, disconnect a link and pull the chain through the derailleur cage. Now you can undo the derailleur’s mounting bolt all the way counter clockwise to remove the derailleur from the frame.
Before installing the new front derailleur, apply some waterproof grease to the mounting bolt. Then place the clamp around the frame and tighten the mounting bolt just enough to keep it in place. At this point you still need to be able to move it by hand.
Now adjust the derailleur’s height and angle. For height adjustment, the bottom edge of the outside derailleur cage should sit approximately 2mm above the top of the teeth on the largest chainring. For the angle adjustment, rotate the derailleur until the cage is parallel with your chainrings. Then fully tighten the clamp’s mounting bolt.
If your chain is still on the bike, undo the tail screw on the derailleur cage and flex the cage to pull the chain through. Then re-install and tighten the tail screw again. If you have removed the chain, re-route the chain through the derailleur cage and reconnect it. Search the site for tutorials on how to use a chain tool or a quick release chain link.
Now preset the low-limit (L) screw so the small chainring appears halfway between the derailleur cage when viewed from above.
Thread the shift cable back into the derailleur, pull it tight and tighten the anchor bolt so the cable flattens. Then find a bare stretch of cable and give it a good pull to make sure the cable is seated and has no slack. Then loosen the cable, pull it tight again and re-tighten it.
Now you’re ready to adjust the front derailleur as shown in previous tutorials. If necessary, trim the cable so there is about 2 inches remaining. Then slide on a cable end cap and crimp it in place.
Hey folks - first off for full disclosure, I recently removed the RD from the hanger to get a look at the hanger. What I'm asking now seems to have happened after re-attaching the RD.
The bike is about a month old so I'm not considering worn out parts yet.
OK so the RD (Ultegra 6800) attaches to the hanger by one bolt. The RD pivots on that bolt. When at rest I can rotate the RD clockwise quite a bit. Just a little rotation counter clockwise. If I rotate clockwise and then let it go there is obviously a spring inside that pushes the RD back to a resting position.
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Hi, basically I've got a problem with the front deraillieur rub on my Triban 3 road bike when in the smallest chainring on the rear and the largest chainring up front.
I've tried setting this up myself about 4 times using this guide
I just cannot seem to make the dérailleur move far enough out! I have tightened the cable as ti... Read more >>
I have cube aim pro 29 with Altus M310 FD. Recently purchased, ready to run.
Thing is I'm not satisfied how the FD is working. There is a problem
with chain rubbing.
For ex. when running in second ring upfront (where in theory there should be no rub at all in any rear shift), there is a rub depending on cable tension.
If I adjust FD in the biggest rear ring, it rubs when I shift to small ones (7,8)
and vice versa. If I adjust in smallest rear ring, it rubs when I shift to biggest (1,2,3). So basically I cannot adjust that no ... Read more >>
Today, one of my grip shifter (for the back shifting) is broken. I've only ride the bike for less than 6 months.
Unfortunately, my chain is now off the gears. So there is almost no way to get the chain back on because the shifter is not in the correct place.
Is there a quick/alternative way to adjust the shifter so I can get my chain on the gear? Thus, at least I can ride.
Or is it a good idea to simply remove the whole back derailleur and also cut some sections of chain? maybe a lot of labor for this approach.
I just want to get the bike go... Read more >>
I bought Roadmaster Granite Peak a couple of weeks back (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Roadmaster-Granite-Peak-26-Men-s-Mountain-Bike-Black/34931885).
Suddenly one by one both the gears have stopped "holding" in place.
The gear cable does move and so does the derailleurs.
A video I took is available here:
https://www.youtube.c... Read more >>
I want to replace the rear derailleur on my current mountain bike, but because it is a cheap low end full suspension, it doesn't have a hanger on the frame and only takes a bolt on derailleur. Is there anyway I can adapt the frame so that it is compatible with a hanger? the derailleurs I want all require a hanger. Thank you.... Read more >>
I just got my new Saracen Urban ESC. It has 3 gears in front and 7 at the back.
Couple of issues I have noticed when changing gears. The front derailleurs works fine when changing in to a lower ring. But when i try to shift it up I have to press the shifter twice. First time does not change the gears and make a horrible metallic sound, feels as if the bike is gonna crash.
How can I fix it?... Read more >>
I just bought a Mountain Bike that I suppose you would classify as a beginner one (Giant Revel 2) and it has been a great experience getting back into riding. Not too long ago I sort of crashed, what I mean by that is I hit the side of an object and ever since that point my front shifting is seeming to suffer. First problem was that shifting from 1st gear to 2nd gear would not always work, it just wouldn't catch and would make a clicking noise as expected. Also shifting into third would do the same. I tried adjusting the shifting knob (the one by the actual gear change on the handlebar) and no... Read more >>
Thanks for taking the time to read my problem. I have recently bought a new bike. It is around 3 weeks old and done 112 miles on it. Recently it has started taking ages to shift up a gear on the rear cassette and occasionally it feels like it is trying to change gear on its own. The shift down is fine at the moment. In another 3 weeks the bike will have a 6 week free service. Is it worth waiting till then to let the professionals look at it or is it a quick fix I can do myself? I want to keep it in tip top condition so dont want it getting any worse or even damage it by putting mo... Read more >>
I'm trying to do some basic bike repairs, but I've stumbled upon a problem I cannot solve.
I have a Trek Lexa women's road bike (~3 years old) with Shimano derailleurs. It was in need of a tune-up as shifting between gears was not smooth and the chain was rubbing the bracket; however it was capable of shifting. I started by unhooking the shifter cable and adjusting the high and low limits of the rear derailleur. When I hooked the cable back up (tightened the rear adjustment screw, pulled on the cables, tightened the cable as much as I could while the gears we... Read more >>
I've watched hours of tutoring videos all over the internet in search for an answer. This forum is probably my last shot at it. The gears on the left (for the front derailleur) don't change the gears on my bike, because the shifter cable is out. I've been trying to reinsert my shifter cable for my FD, but only gear one and two work, and it's too stiff for the third gear. Ahhhh! Please help!!... Read more >>
Rear Derailleur shifter: Falcon Index System thumb shifter.
The high and low limits are set correctly because I can shift through all the gear with no problem. I just have to hold the shifter in place. If I let go, it will move all the way to high gear (small cog). It won't stay in anything but the highest gear by itself.... Read more >>
I recently purchased a Genesis Roadtech bike from Wal-Mart. It's a road bike but I have no idea how to use the shifters on this bike. The image is where the shifters are located.
I'm just getting into cycling so some of this stuff is still very new to me.
Thank you in advance for help advice.... Read more >>
I currently ride a Giant Revolt 2, 2014 model Cyclocross bike.
Last week during my commute to work I lost a spacer from my rear cassette so had it repaired by a local guy who is a friend of mine.
He managed to get every gear sweet bar the highest (small cog) on the rear cassette, it shifts nicely from the second smallest cog down to the smallest cog but it won't go back up - only on that one lowest gear.
He took it to his workshop over night and fit a new cassette and removed a link from the chain as the chain was still slack but that... Read more >>
I have a Sturmey Archer gears on my bike with a following shifter:[attachment=5222]
However I would like to change this shifter for modern one -the one I currently have is a bit rusty and its though to change gears sometimes.I have found this model:
3 SPEED NIMBUS SHIFTER
FITS 22.2MM BARS.
Will this shifter be suitable to replace the old one?
Thanks... Read more >>