19. How to Overhaul a Threaded Headset
Overhaul your headset at least once a year to check for wear and re-grease the ball bearings.
Overhaul your headset at least once a year to check for wear and re-grease the ball bearings.
If you ride your bike a lot, you should overhaul your headset at least once a year to check for wear and to make sure the bearings have enough grease.
For this tutorial, you’ll need some waterproof grease, an old toothbrush and some cleaning solvent. If you have an older 1″ headset, you’ll need a set of 32mm spanner wrenches. Larger 1 1/8″ headsets usually require a set of 36mm spanner wrenches.
Before you begin, you’ll need to disconnect the front brake and remove the brake cable from the lever. You’ll also need to remove the front wheel. To remove the stem, simply loosen the stem’s tightening bolt far enough so you can give it a light tap with a hammer. This will knock the inner wedge loose and allow the stem to slide up out of the fork.
Now loosen and remove the locknut. Holding the fork in place with one hand, remove any spacers and unthread the adjusting race. Make sure to note how many spacers there are, and what order they came off. Gently slide the fork down and out of the frame. Make sure to make a note of which way the bearing races are facing before you remove them.
Wipe clean all of the bearing races located on both the frame and fork as well as the upper threaded race. Inspect all four of the bearing races to make sure they are not grooved or pitted. If so you will likely have to replace the entire headset unit.
Thouroughly clean the ball bearing cages with your toothbrush and solvent. Then wipe them dry with a clean rag, and set them aside to air-dry. Inspect the ball cages to make sure they aren’t bent or worn. You can replace the cages without replacing the entire headset, but you’ll have to bring the old set to your local bike shop for proper sizing.
If all of your parts are ok, apply a layer of grease to all of the bearing races. Then install the ball cages the same way they came out and add another layer of grease on top of them.
Once the bearings are in place and fully greased, carefully slide the fork back into the frame and finger-tighten the adjusting race. Wipe off any excess grease that may have squirted out the sides. Slide the spacers back on and thread the locknut on finger tight.
To adjust the headset, hold the lower adjusting race with a spanner wrench and use a second spanner to tighten locknut against the adjusting race.
To test the adjustment, check that the headset turns freely and check for play by rocking the fork back and forth in the frame. Re-adjust as needed until the bars spin freely and have no play.
Reinstall the front wheel. Before reinstalling the stem, coat the shaft and wedge with a thin layer of grease. Then reinstall and tighten the handlebar stem, and reconnect the front brake.
Then re-test the headset adjustment by making sure the bars spin freely, and using your front brake, rock the bike back and forth to double check there is no play in the headset.
My trusty road bike is approaching 6000 miles on it. Not much replaced due to good routine maintenance I've been doing. Would non-threaded headsets need maintenance though? Couldn't find much information, but I haven't looked deep. Thought I'd invoke the brain trust here. Occasionally I'll wipe away grease that escapes to the outside of the frame. Not much comes out, maybe wiping once or twice a year. The headset is sort of loose, in that the wheel turns very easily. I don't feel any play in it, nor any rough spots while the wheel is spinning and the wheel turned while lifted off of th... Read more >>
I'm rebuilding an old Cannondale Killer V. The problem I've hit is the headset is an 1 1/4 inch size which is not readily available. Does anyone know where I can source this size of headset from?... Read more >>
I recently bought a new 1" headset for my bike. Unfortunately the fork was too long for the headtube, so the LBS cut the thread a little bit longer for me. The upshot is that there is a little bit too much thread for headset. The LBS advised that I could add spacers - which I have done. The new headset's lock nut is a little thinner however the old headset's lock nut is somewhat more substantial and makes up the gap effectively. My question is can I use the lock nut from the old headset? also there are three headset spacers on this threaded fork see pic ; 2 x 5mm and an alloy one . Is that ... Read more >>
Works smooth as silk and does BB cups also... Read more >>
Hi My old threaded headset had loose bearings. I am going to replace them. Can I use caged bearings or should I go back to loose bearings? is there any hard and fast rules? Thanks... Read more >>
Hey, I have an old 70's road bike that must have sat outside in the rain a bit. I'm having issues getting the front fork top bearing race off. Pretty sure its rusted on there pretty good. Any ideas? Its so hard to get a good grip on it with vice grips or anything. Sprayed some penetrant on there a lot. no luck...Is there any other tricks for getting a good grip on the small little surface to give it a good twist? Thanks for the help! B... Read more >>
Hi, Cannondale Bad Boy. The bearings on the steering (1 1/8) have worn through. I am not sure what to replace them with. I have emailed Cannondale but so far no reply! The present bearing is open with a 45 deg angle, I would like to replace with a cartridge bearing. Can I use a cartridge FSA/Ritchley/Cane Creek etc.....? Advice please. Nigel... Read more >>
Hey guys, I recently overhauled my FSA threadless headset ie. took it to bits, cleaned everything, greased it & put it back on. Now, although the handlebars still turn as much as I need them to, the headset feels quite stiff. Does anyone know what the problem might be? Cheers Si... Read more >>
Hi guys im trying to remove the threaded stem from an old rusted frame i have, using a hammer i managed to remove the stems tightening bolt (a nut fell through the bottom of my forks, please warn me if this isnt good) anyway now the stem itself wont budge, im wondering whether this may be due to rust and neglect over 7 years or so. Any ideas? cheers in advance... Read more >>
Hi, Ive just replaced the caged bearings on a threaded headset with some new loose bearings. Ive greased them and there is no signs of indexing / brindling on the race but they dont run as smooth as before. They turn ok and the forks easily spin to one side when let loose but i can hear them turning and you can feel a slight unsmoothness if that makes sense, its not exactly 'rough' but its not smooth as silk or silent like id expect. I unfortunately discarded a seal, could this be the cause or I wonder if i have the right size of bearing in there. Any thoughts much appreciated. Thanks Stev... Read more >>
So I have started the process to build a MTB from the frame up as a side project from second handish parts. Mainly because I want to learn and I love tinkering with stuff. I have a great fork and an amazing frame. I know for a fact I need to have a headset installed but in I'm just not sure how to measure them to make sure they fit. Just a few questions, and I apologize if these have already been answered I did not see anything in my searches. 1. Am I correct in thinking that the inner diameter of the crown barring needs to be super snug on the steerer tube? 2. What numbers are important w... Read more >>
I just bought a scrap bike for parts...can I reuse the headset on a different frame?... Read more >>
I'm reconditioning my old cannondale 3.0 so I can sell it. Someone before me overtightened the headset after installing the upper ball bearings and retaining ring upside down.... Read more >>
I just went through the head bearings on my Schwinn MB. Took the forks off and cleaned and greased the bearings. I did not move the races. Now on reassembly I find if I tighten the top nuts so there is no play in the steering, the steering is too tight, so I need to leave a bit of a play in it so it moves freely side to side. When I first assembled it I needed to readjust after the first ride as there was lots of play present as bearings settled in. The other thing I find is that the steering feels kind of dead. I do not get much feedback from it. Some of that may be due to my getting a stee... Read more >>
Hey everybody, So a month or two ago I did a post about how I was having problems with my front fork not being aligned after moving. I got some good replies telling me how to adjust my headset, and I got that taken care of. However, I've got another problem: now when I pull up on my handlebars there is obvious movement/play in the headset. I have everything as tight as I can get it, and I can see an obvious gap in the headset pieces of problem 1/16th of an inch. Here are some pictures... hopefully somebody has some advice, I really want to get out for a ride today! Thanks in advance. [attac... Read more >>