57. How to Replace a Wheel Rim
Learn how to replace a worn out wheel rim (rim transfer).
In this tutorial we will learn how to replace a worn out rim. This repair is often called a rim transfer.
For this job you will need an appropriately sized spoke wrench, a wheel truing stand, an optional nipple driver, waterproof grease and a toothpick, linseed oil, rim tape, and some tape or zip ties to fasten the rims together. You’ll also need a replacement rim. The new rim must be the exact same size and spoke count as your old rim.
Using a dab of grease on a toothpick, grease all of the spoke holes on the new rim. You’ll only need a tiny bit. This helps the nipples turn easier when you’re tensioning the wheel.
Next you’ll need to loosen all of the old spoke nipples. The safest way to do this is to start at the valve hole and loosen all of the spokes by turning clockwise 1/4 turn each. Repeat this step until all of the spokes in the wheel are de-tensioned but still attached.
Tape or zip-tie the new rim to the old rim in 2 places directly across from each other. Make sure that the valve hole and placement of the spoke holes in the rims match up exactly.
One at a time, you’ll need to move each spoke from one side of the wheel over to the new rim. Turning counter-clockwise, unthread each nipple from the old rim and place a drop of linseed oil inside the nipple threads. This will keep the nipples tight while still allowing them to be turned in the future. Move the spoke over to the corresponding hole on the new rim. Thread the nipple on most of the way, but leave 2 spoke threads showing.
Once all of the spokes on the first side of the wheel are transferred, repeat the process and transfer the spokes on the other side of the wheel, until all of the spokes have been threaded onto the new rim.
You can now undo the tape or zip-ties and remove the old rim. Starting at the valve hole, tighten all of the nipples by turning each 1/4 turn counter-clockwise, all the way around the wheel. Repeat this until all of the spokes are fairly tight, and then tension and true the wheel. See the video titled how to true a wheel. In the next video we’ll learn how to properly tension your spokes.
I'm about to replace the rear wheel on my bike. The new wheel has a quick release, and I'm wondering if, since the axle is hollow, it would make it more prone to bending than the fixed bolt axle.
The new wheel is the same brand as the old one (Weinmann 519, 26"x1.5), and they appear identical in all respects except for the axle.
My question is, would it be better for the sake of durability to use the old bolt on axle on the new wheel? One consideration may be that my bike is equipped with a freewheel as opposed to a casstette/freehub.
The old axle is, of course, undamaged, I'... Read more >>
I am VERY new to biking. I have a Trek 800 MB from I think 2000. I bought a trainer and want to get a trainer tire for it but have no idea what I need to look for sizewise..... I'm also wondering if for ease I'd want to get another wheel with the tire on that wheel for quick changes?
Thanks!... Read more >>
Hi, I'm new to this forum, so I hope I' m posting this in the right place.
As a matter of general interest, is it any more difficult to change a 7 speed freewheel
to a freehub and cassette setup than by simply changing the wheel and putting the appropriate freehub and cassette on it? I've only recently found out there's a difference, and I'm currious to know more about it.... Read more >>
how about this kind rims,it is more better than bead hook rims?... Read more >>
I need to replace the bearings on my rear wheel, while I'm doing it I plan on changing the Axel as well. The Axel measures 170mm, I was thinking of changing to a quick release one.
My question is how do I know what size Axel do I buy, how do I measure for this.
Neil.... Read more >>
I have an original set of 700c Araya rims that are still going strong on my old Trek roadie. The front is in great shape, but the rear has a little hop(flat spot) in the rim. I was going to replace a couple stripped spoke nipples and figured I'd ask you guys if the hop could be removed, somehow?
It's not too bad, but at low speeds it is more noticeable, than at high speeds.
Thanks !!!... Read more >>
Hi guys. This is my first forum experience.
Ok I have a set of old Ukai rims on my 1983(?) Lotus. I want to keep this baby intact as much as possible but my rear wheel is FUBAR. Everytime i bring it to a repair shop they... make it seem like i have to buy a whole new bicycle because everything that connects to the wheel also needs to be replaced.
Sigh. OK its time to get my hands dirty. What do I need to do here? What measurements do I need to look for so I know what I need to go to ebay to find? Anyone know of some cool light strong wheels that will replace these? ... Read more >>
It's about 30yo. A few years back I bent the rear wheel on our poorly paved streets. I've since acquired a more modern daily ride (CAAD 9) that I quite like.
But I was thinking about refurbishing the Fuji.
I assume that exact parts would be near impossible to find.
Could I modernize the wheel, chain and perhaps the cassette, or is there more to it than just that?... Read more >>
If I spin a wheel and it does not make contact with my disk pads, is it "true"?... Read more >>
I'm having troubles changing tires on on Van Schothorst stainless steel rims (widely used on Raleigh, Batavus and other retro style bikes).
It seem nearly impossible to take off the old or to put on a new ones. Rim is like "too big" for the tire...
Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.... Read more >>
I have a flat and need to remove the front wheel to replace the inner tube, but I have no idea how to deal with this drum brake.
I've read in one of the threads that I may need a special tool...?
Please let me know if you have any advice.... Read more >>
I have an Avaya 27" wheel. On one side of the hub, the bearings were pushed out.
I purchased a new set of bearings for both sides (the kind that come in a casing, not loose), greased everything up and made thumb tight. One side, I couldn't even tighten/loosen, which wasn't an issue.
Maybe a month later, both sides are now pushed out, the bearings/casing is bent, making it unable to put the seal back on, and the wheel wobbles probably within 1/2" each way. I obviously made a mistake somewhere, but I'm not sure where.... possibilities:
-... Read more >>
Is it possible to go from 7 to 10 on the rear wheel. The bike is a schwinn sidewinder sold at walmart. I think it is a freewheel. It's a pretty decent bike, it get's me around without costing too much.
if it is going to cost more than the bike is worth, than I will live with 7 on the back, but the rear gear needs to be replaced one way or the other. I would like to go to 10, but not if it will cost alot of money.
I am mechanically inclined and will do the work myself, but if the more experienced of you could point the way, that would be great.
TIA... Read more >>
I've been having a terrible time trying to remove a very old Regina America Freewheel. I purchased a Park FR4 remover from a local bike shop. However, the tool would not fit over the ridged round "nut" on the outside of the wheel. A tech at the shop indicated that I should try to "tap" the "nut" in to access the freewheel locking nut. I gave it quite a few "taps" (actually, hard raps) with no success. I tried using a vise to press on it, also with no success. I'm trying to replace a broken spoke on the freewheel side of the wheel and have been off the bike for 2 weeks... Read more >>
Hello all, new to bikes and the forum and needed some simple help. I can't seem to find on the internet what size rim i would need. I have 2 of these bikes.. 1 of which had both wheels stolen.. and the other i had an accident that cause 4 of the spokes to bust out and the wheel slightly bent.. so now i am out of 2 bikes!!!
anywho here is the information to the model i currently have
22.5" GMC Denali 700c Men's Road Bike, Black/Orange:
Shimano FD-TZ 31 Index front derailleur
Shimano RD-TZ30GS 7SPD rear derailleur
Promax 501A alloy caliper brak... Read more >>