57. How to Replace a Wheel Rim

Learn how to replace a worn out wheel rim (rim transfer).

IMPORTANT: Nuts and bolts on your bike should always be tightened to the manufacturer's specifications.
How to Replace a Wheel Rim

In this tutorial we will learn how to replace a worn out rim. This repair is often called a rim transfer.

What You'll Need

For this job you will need an appropriately sized spoke wrench, a wheel truing stand, an optional nipple driver, waterproof grease and a toothpick, linseed oil, rim tape, and some tape or zip ties to fasten the rims together. You'll also need a replacement rim. The new rim must be the exact same size and spoke count as your old rim.

Grease Spoke Holes

Using a dab of grease on a toothpick, grease all of the spoke holes on the new rim. You'll only need a tiny bit. This helps the nipples turn easier when you're tensioning the wheel.

De-tension Old Wheel

Next you'll need to loosen all of the old spoke nipples. The safest way to do this is to start at the valve hole and loosen all of the spokes by turning clockwise 1/4 turn each. Repeat this step until all of the spokes in the wheel are de-tensioned but still attached.

Attach New Rim

Tape or zip-tie the new rim to the old rim in 2 places directly across from each other. Make sure that the valve hole and placement of the spoke holes in the rims match up exactly.

Transfer Spokes

One at a time, you'll need to move each spoke from one side of the wheel over to the new rim. Turning counter-clockwise, unthread each nipple from the old rim and place a drop of linseed oil inside the nipple threads. This will keep the nipples tight while still allowing them to be turned in the future. Move the spoke over to the corresponding hole on the new rim. Thread the nipple on most of the way, but leave 2 spoke threads showing.

Once all of the spokes on the first side of the wheel are transferred, repeat the process and transfer the spokes on the other side of the wheel, until all of the spokes have been threaded onto the new rim.

True and Tension Spokes

You can now undo the tape or zip-ties and remove the old rim. Starting at the valve hole, tighten all of the nipples by turning each 1/4 turn counter-clockwise, all the way around the wheel. Repeat this until all of the spokes are fairly tight, and then tension and true the wheel. See the video titled how to true a wheel. In the next video we'll learn how to properly tension your spokes.

Tags

Discuss this topic in the Wheel Forums

12/11 Axle too long

replaced the rear wheel with new one  the axle is slightly longer approx 4mm  had to use washers as a temporary measure. i was wondering can you get knurled washers that will do the job better
thanks chris... Read more >>

12/09 Changing rims

Hi!

I wanted to replace the rim on my roadbike and heard from a friend that I should do it spoke by spoke, that way I don't have to be careful where to put which spoke. I tried that and now the new rim has kinda an egg shape and I can't fit any more spokes (I got stuck after switching 18 of the 32).

(both rims are 622x15c)

Should I:
1. Buy an already built new wheel and be done with it?
2. Start over again?
3. Remove all of the spokes from the old rim, learn how to align them correctly and try it again?
4. or something else?
... Read more >>

12/08 No action on wheels in cold conditions

I recently bought a second hand Giant Upland SE and to be frank, it is my first bike with multiple gears. The bike functioned normally for the first day or two. I could shift between all the gears. When the bike is stored indoors, the pedal and wheel work fine but once I take it out in the cold (anywhere from -10 to -30 degrees celsius), the pedals rotate freely and have no action on the wheel. Also I am not able use some gears on the rear wheel. Can anyone please help with an explanation and solution?... Read more >>

10/23 Replacement Axle

Hi,

I need to find a replacement axle for the one which broke on my 1970's road bike. I've written the specs below, can anyone help me source a replacment? I don't know what to search for:

Length 165.5mm
Thread size 9.2mm
Shaft 8.8mm

Starting from the drive Side
24mm to first nut
First nut 6mm with an incorporated spacer 9mm
Second nut 3mm
Spacer 1.7mm
Cone specification unknown
Gap to second Cone 71mm
Cone Specification unknown
Spacer 1.45mm
Nut 2.8mm
20mm to end of thread
Read more >>

09/15 Schwinn meridian rear drive axle

Recently bought a slightly used 26" meridian trike. While replacing wider tires on the rear, I noticed an issue with the rear drive side wheel hub. The wheel is held on with a nut and single washer. The hub is not held firmly in a location on the axle and is able to slide back and forth on the axle a good half inch even though the nut is tightened all the way down to its bottom threads on the axle. The non drive side hub and wheel has very little play on its axle , perhaps a 1/8 inch and seems to run fine.

While the drive side hub slides back and forth and seems to be creating un... Read more >>

08/02 Any idea what could have happened to my rim?

[Image: IMG_3671.jpg]
So today I got a flat tire (unrelated, it was a nail, extracted, repaired. All good) and when I pulled over to try to find what caused it, I noticed that my rim was rubbing the brakes the way it does when it's out of true because of a broken spoke.
The spoke is fine. It's the RIM that's been damaged, and that has damaged my calm some. I took it to my usual bike shop, guys are pros, figured they'd have an answer, no such luck. They gave me vague language about how it "looked like it h... Read more >>

07/24 Restoring extremely rusted rims on bike

Hi

We have a hand me down bike which has been in the family for 30+ years. It's original ower is now in her fourties!!! I'm attached to this bike because the memories I have with my dad riding it.

It has rusted underneath the chrome coating it had so it now all pitted.

I was wondering, can I respray the paint back onto the rim?... Read more >>

07/19 Rear wheel noise - help please

Hi everyone,

I have a very annoying creaky/rubby noise that I cant shift although I have narrowed it down to the rear wheel and not the bike.

I have a Giant Propel Advanced SL 0 Aero Race Road Bike 2016 3 months old and 1,000 miles with the SLR 0 Aero wheels 55mm.

The noise noise only happens (always takes 10 mins to warm up) when I'm seated and putting some power down uphill or on the flats. Now I know its not the BB as I have put my friends Mavic rear wheel on my bike and my SLR r/wheel on his Scott and he gets the same noise on his bike. He's 60kg and... Read more >>

06/27 Wheel size change

Hi all,

Someone just gave me a 32" cruiser bike. Yes, it's a boxstore bike, but they were kind enough to give it to me and I appreciate their generosity. The back tire has a gash in it, and I'm having a hard time finding a replacement. I'm contemplating downsizing the wheel set to a more common size. Seems like it will work as the bike is very simple: single speed, coaster brake. Spatial reasoning isn't my forte so sometimes I look at things like this thinking they will work, only to find out I'm mistaken. What do I need to think through on such a swap? Thanks in advance!!!... Read more >>

06/17 Mystery Spring

I have a 1997 Giant Ferrago.  Great bike, bulletproof.  I was changing the rear tube, and doing a bit of lube to both wheels.  When all was said and done, I had a left over spring that I think came off the bike.  But where?

Any ideas?

[Image: image_zpsoivycnpy.jpeg]... Read more >>

03/14 Rear wheel keeps shifting

I just tuned my '76 Schwinn cruiser up for spring, and after riding as far as my daughter's bus stop my rear wheel has shifted over far enough that the tire is hard against the frame. So I readjust, tighten it back down, and in the same time my wheel has shifted again. It's gone as tight as it can. I'm wondering if the mounting brackets of the fender are causing the nut to slip. Perhaps moving them to the inside of the frame would help? Any suggestions?

Edit: It only seems to be the drive side that slips. The chain is loose and the tire presses against the non-drive side under the... Read more >>

03/12 HB M960 hub overhaul

So I have this lovely ti tourer with shimano xtr hbm960 hubs, and I am hoping to service these hubs. I see a metal cap on both ends of the hubs both front and back and the metal cap has a space that looks like I can put a flat head screw driver into to pry it off, it has no flats like the other cones I've dealt with. Can't find how to on the internet. Has anyone dealt with these hubs?

http://imgur.com/0uLqgOw... Read more >>

02/20 Wheels

I have a 1987 Cannondale racing road bike that I have been using to ride on crushed stone and paved trails. The wheels have worn out and need replacing. I was wondering if I could get a slightly wider wheel that could support a wider tire. The crushed stone makes control a bit hard at times. I am looking for more stability from the bike.
I like the feel of the bike and am very comfortable with the road set up. I would rather not have to buy a new bike.
golfguy826... Read more >>

02/10 What tool is needed to remove this freewheel?

Hello,

I was wondering if someone could recommend to me which removal tool is needed to remove this freewheel? I recently broke a couple spokes and the freewheel needs to be removed to access the hole to put a new spoke in. I put the ruler there to measure the diameter of the space, it's about 35mm-ish. I was looking at park tools freewheel recommendation site, but don't see one that would necessarily match. Would the FR-6 or FR-8 work? Thanks!

The bi... Read more >>

01/23 Quick Release Lever Recall

I got this from Consumer Reports. It effects disc equipped bicycles from 1998 -2015. Including major brands like Cannondale, Dimondback and Specialized.

The quick release wheel lever can come open and get jammed against the disc brake.

To see if your bike is effected go to: quickrelease-recall.com... Read more >>

New Thread
How to Replace a Wheel Rim
Repair Guide / Help Forums

Free Email Updates: