57. How to Replace a Wheel Rim
Learn how to replace a worn out wheel rim (rim transfer).
In this tutorial we will learn how to replace a worn out rim. This repair is often called a rim transfer.
For this job you will need an appropriately sized spoke wrench, a wheel truing stand, an optional nipple driver, waterproof grease and a toothpick, linseed oil, rim tape, and some tape or zip ties to fasten the rims together. You’ll also need a replacement rim. The new rim must be the exact same size and spoke count as your old rim.
Using a dab of grease on a toothpick, grease all of the spoke holes on the new rim. You’ll only need a tiny bit. This helps the nipples turn easier when you’re tensioning the wheel.
Next you’ll need to loosen all of the old spoke nipples. The safest way to do this is to start at the valve hole and loosen all of the spokes by turning clockwise 1/4 turn each. Repeat this step until all of the spokes in the wheel are de-tensioned but still attached.
Tape or zip-tie the new rim to the old rim in 2 places directly across from each other. Make sure that the valve hole and placement of the spoke holes in the rims match up exactly.
One at a time, you’ll need to move each spoke from one side of the wheel over to the new rim. Turning counter-clockwise, unthread each nipple from the old rim and place a drop of linseed oil inside the nipple threads. This will keep the nipples tight while still allowing them to be turned in the future. Move the spoke over to the corresponding hole on the new rim. Thread the nipple on most of the way, but leave 2 spoke threads showing.
Once all of the spokes on the first side of the wheel are transferred, repeat the process and transfer the spokes on the other side of the wheel, until all of the spokes have been threaded onto the new rim.
You can now undo the tape or zip-ties and remove the old rim. Starting at the valve hole, tighten all of the nipples by turning each 1/4 turn counter-clockwise, all the way around the wheel. Repeat this until all of the spokes are fairly tight, and then tension and true the wheel. See the video titled how to true a wheel. In the next video we’ll learn how to properly tension your spokes.
I have got a fixie wheel which i wish to change so i can use it on my road bike i want to also change it from 12-25 to 11-28 so it makes it easier on the hills, i have attached a image of the wheel i want to change... Read more >>
Im quite fresh to the sport of cycling. Over the last month ive compacted knowlegde on bikes in this tiny brain of mine. That being said, when i started up i bought cheap bikes to work on, so i could just get my hands dirty. I bought and old Sears "FreeSpirit" bike as the first bike i would tweek with. I found out the hard way that my rims/wheelset required a certain wheel size. 26x1 3/8, and that no other 26inch wheel would fit my rim. So now i have a set of bikes, and this FreeSpirit bike just collects dust. I would like to take the tires off the old bike, and install ... Read more >>
I'm back from trip, and all the loose black ceramic bearings that I was waiting for have arrived (These were a gift by the way, for work I did for associate at work).
The bike. 1980 or so Peugeot U09 with solid axle, Normandy Hubs.
When I put in new #25 5/32" bearings on front axle exam (heard noise), 2-3 Months ago, I found the cones pitted (Polished/re-used at that time, as I did not at first find parts)Front axle was also found slightly bent. (I replaced rims and headset bearings on this 10 years ago). Races were good.
Found an ebay quick release axle that f... Read more >>
Hello. I'm new to the forums and was getting a little help in another thread with replacing the bottom bracket on my mountain ( spare ) bike. Parts are on order and now my main beach crusier bike is having issues.
This morning it started creaking bad in the real wheel.
I lubed it up but still sounds bad.
Also the wheel seems true.
Video Of Rear Wheel Creak
Read more >>
Early 1980's Peugeot -- One Owner. Solid Axle.
Hear wheel spin.
Opened it up, and learned the hard way it's loose bearings...
Cones are pitted... Axle is slightly bent.
Bought new Bearings, but No cones or axle is available from local bike shop. Normandy Hub.
Up against a rock and a hard place, this is what I did....
Used Dremel tool, polishing wheel, and jeweler's rouge, and Polished the cone..... to remove the pitting ...
New Bearings and grease, and put it all back together... and it works....
Now, I... Read more >>
I'm about to replace the rear wheel on my bike. The new wheel has a quick release, and I'm wondering if, since the axle is hollow, it would make it more prone to bending than the fixed bolt axle.
The new wheel is the same brand as the old one (Weinmann 519, 26"x1.5), and they appear identical in all respects except for the axle.
My question is, would it be better for the sake of durability to use the old bolt on axle on the new wheel? One consideration may be that my bike is equipped with a freewheel as opposed to a casstette/freehub.
The old axle is, of course, undamaged, I'... Read more >>
I am VERY new to biking. I have a Trek 800 MB from I think 2000. I bought a trainer and want to get a trainer tire for it but have no idea what I need to look for sizewise..... I'm also wondering if for ease I'd want to get another wheel with the tire on that wheel for quick changes?
Thanks!... Read more >>
Hi, I'm new to this forum, so I hope I' m posting this in the right place.
As a matter of general interest, is it any more difficult to change a 7 speed freewheel
to a freehub and cassette setup than by simply changing the wheel and putting the appropriate freehub and cassette on it? I've only recently found out there's a difference, and I'm currious to know more about it.... Read more >>
how about this kind rims,it is more better than bead hook rims?... Read more >>
I need to replace the bearings on my rear wheel, while I'm doing it I plan on changing the Axel as well. The Axel measures 170mm, I was thinking of changing to a quick release one.
My question is how do I know what size Axel do I buy, how do I measure for this.
Neil.... Read more >>
I have an original set of 700c Araya rims that are still going strong on my old Trek roadie. The front is in great shape, but the rear has a little hop(flat spot) in the rim. I was going to replace a couple stripped spoke nipples and figured I'd ask you guys if the hop could be removed, somehow?
It's not too bad, but at low speeds it is more noticeable, than at high speeds.
Thanks !!!... Read more >>
Hi guys. This is my first forum experience.
Ok I have a set of old Ukai rims on my 1983(?) Lotus. I want to keep this baby intact as much as possible but my rear wheel is FUBAR. Everytime i bring it to a repair shop they... make it seem like i have to buy a whole new bicycle because everything that connects to the wheel also needs to be replaced.
Sigh. OK its time to get my hands dirty. What do I need to do here? What measurements do I need to look for so I know what I need to go to ebay to find? Anyone know of some cool light strong wheels that will replace these? ... Read more >>
It's about 30yo. A few years back I bent the rear wheel on our poorly paved streets. I've since acquired a more modern daily ride (CAAD 9) that I quite like.
But I was thinking about refurbishing the Fuji.
I assume that exact parts would be near impossible to find.
Could I modernize the wheel, chain and perhaps the cassette, or is there more to it than just that?... Read more >>
If I spin a wheel and it does not make contact with my disk pads, is it "true"?... Read more >>
I'm having troubles changing tires on on Van Schothorst stainless steel rims (widely used on Raleigh, Batavus and other retro style bikes).
It seem nearly impossible to take off the old or to put on a new ones. Rim is like "too big" for the tire...
Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.... Read more >>