57. How to Replace a Wheel Rim
Learn how to replace a worn out wheel rim (rim transfer).
In this tutorial we will learn how to replace a worn out rim. This repair is often called a rim transfer.
For this job you will need an appropriately sized spoke wrench, a wheel truing stand, an optional nipple driver, waterproof grease and a toothpick, linseed oil, rim tape, and some tape or zip ties to fasten the rims together. You’ll also need a replacement rim. The new rim must be the exact same size and spoke count as your old rim.
Using a dab of grease on a toothpick, grease all of the spoke holes on the new rim. You’ll only need a tiny bit. This helps the nipples turn easier when you’re tensioning the wheel.
Next you’ll need to loosen all of the old spoke nipples. The safest way to do this is to start at the valve hole and loosen all of the spokes by turning clockwise 1/4 turn each. Repeat this step until all of the spokes in the wheel are de-tensioned but still attached.
Tape or zip-tie the new rim to the old rim in 2 places directly across from each other. Make sure that the valve hole and placement of the spoke holes in the rims match up exactly.
One at a time, you’ll need to move each spoke from one side of the wheel over to the new rim. Turning counter-clockwise, unthread each nipple from the old rim and place a drop of linseed oil inside the nipple threads. This will keep the nipples tight while still allowing them to be turned in the future. Move the spoke over to the corresponding hole on the new rim. Thread the nipple on most of the way, but leave 2 spoke threads showing.
Once all of the spokes on the first side of the wheel are transferred, repeat the process and transfer the spokes on the other side of the wheel, until all of the spokes have been threaded onto the new rim.
You can now undo the tape or zip-ties and remove the old rim. Starting at the valve hole, tighten all of the nipples by turning each 1/4 turn counter-clockwise, all the way around the wheel. Repeat this until all of the spokes are fairly tight, and then tension and true the wheel. See the video titled how to true a wheel. In the next video we’ll learn how to properly tension your spokes.
If I spin a wheel and it does not make contact with my disk pads, is it "true"?... Read more >>
I'm having troubles changing tires on on Van Schothorst stainless steel rims (widely used on Raleigh, Batavus and other retro style bikes).
It seem nearly impossible to take off the old or to put on a new ones. Rim is like "too big" for the tire...
Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.... Read more >>
I have a flat and need to remove the front wheel to replace the inner tube, but I have no idea how to deal with this drum brake.
I've read in one of the threads that I may need a special tool...?
Please let me know if you have any advice.... Read more >>
I have an Avaya 27" wheel. On one side of the hub, the bearings were pushed out.
I purchased a new set of bearings for both sides (the kind that come in a casing, not loose), greased everything up and made thumb tight. One side, I couldn't even tighten/loosen, which wasn't an issue.
Maybe a month later, both sides are now pushed out, the bearings/casing is bent, making it unable to put the seal back on, and the wheel wobbles probably within 1/2" each way. I obviously made a mistake somewhere, but I'm not sure where.... possibilities:
-... Read more >>
Is it possible to go from 7 to 10 on the rear wheel. The bike is a schwinn sidewinder sold at walmart. I think it is a freewheel. It's a pretty decent bike, it get's me around without costing too much.
if it is going to cost more than the bike is worth, than I will live with 7 on the back, but the rear gear needs to be replaced one way or the other. I would like to go to 10, but not if it will cost alot of money.
I am mechanically inclined and will do the work myself, but if the more experienced of you could point the way, that would be great.
TIA... Read more >>
I've been having a terrible time trying to remove a very old Regina America Freewheel. I purchased a Park FR4 remover from a local bike shop. However, the tool would not fit over the ridged round "nut" on the outside of the wheel. A tech at the shop indicated that I should try to "tap" the "nut" in to access the freewheel locking nut. I gave it quite a few "taps" (actually, hard raps) with no success. I tried using a vise to press on it, also with no success. I'm trying to replace a broken spoke on the freewheel side of the wheel and have been off the bike for 2 weeks... Read more >>
Hello all, new to bikes and the forum and needed some simple help. I can't seem to find on the internet what size rim i would need. I have 2 of these bikes.. 1 of which had both wheels stolen.. and the other i had an accident that cause 4 of the spokes to bust out and the wheel slightly bent.. so now i am out of 2 bikes!!!
anywho here is the information to the model i currently have
22.5" GMC Denali 700c Men's Road Bike, Black/Orange:
Shimano FD-TZ 31 Index front derailleur
Shimano RD-TZ30GS 7SPD rear derailleur
Promax 501A alloy caliper brak... Read more >>
I've got an older set of 700 wheels that should be replaced with a set I picked up recently. The problem is that the newer set has a 135mm rear dropout spacing axle and the old set is 126mm, which fits my older road bike frame. The newer set has a 9 speed cassette and the older is a 7 speed cassette.
Can I change the axle in the newer set to fit my older frame and will the older 7 speed cassette work fine or do I need to change the cassette freewheel??... or if there is a better way... ?
Thanks !... Read more >>
Hi there, I just wanted to know if you all use a spoke tensioning meter (park tool TM-1) when tensioning your spokes, or if there was another way of doing it without one as they are quite pricey for a bit of plastic! I wondered whether you just guess within reason or go by feel? thanks... Read more >>
I've just noticed my front wheel is not centred within my front fork and is off to the left, which is causing the right v-brake caliper to lean over towards the left also. How can I fix this? I've tried taking it off and rebolting it back in, but it just goes back to the same position. Thanks for any help!... Read more >>
I have had built a custom rear rim which uses a Novatec D042 hub. I received the rim back via courier yesterday, fitted the tube and tyre on and mounted it back on the frame (a Specialized Cross Trail Sport Disc hybrid).
When I turn the pedals with the bike on the maintenance stand and then stop turning, simulating freewheeling down a hill for example, the hub doesnt freewheel, it keeps turning the pedals like it was a fixed gear bike.
I know the obvious answer is to go back to the guy who built the rim (and who also put the disc brake and cogs back on the new rim for me) but he is... Read more >>
I have an old road bike with very narrow tires. I plan to use this as a commuter bike, so I'd like to swap out to thicker tires, something like the Schwalbe Marathons. The wheel size currently is 700c.
The issue that I have is that the fork crown is very close to the current narrow tire. I've attached a picture. The only option I can think of is that I need to get a slightly smaller wheel and also possibly new brakes with long-reach.
I wondered if anybody has suggestions or other ideas.
[attachment=5282]... Read more >>
I have a 1998 GT Palomar and I put new wheels on it about 3 years ago and it was serviced just a couple of weeks ago. Anyway, after the service the back wheel has been spinning freely. However, I picked up a puncture and removed the wheel and sorted the puncture, but when I put the wheel back on and tighten the nuts the wheel only spins for about 1/10th as long as it was just before. I am completely stumped, could anyone help?
Ben... Read more >>
I just mated a 7 speed wheel with my old 10 speed and have noticed that the freewheel is wobbling in driven mode only...not so much when coasting. Ideas?
Video here: http://youtu.be/eD-GCu0GHd4... Read more >>
I broke two spokes and resolved to fix them myself.
I removed the cassette on the wheel, removed the broken spokes, thread the new spokes through the hub and the other spokes, but I cannot get the new spokes to screw into the old nipples. Or, rather, I can get them started, but there is a point past which my spoke wrench will not turn.
I am starting to think that I need to replace the old nipple with the new nipple that came with the new spoke.
Now that I type it out it seems obvious, but is this right? New spokes will not always go into old nipple?
Read more >>