14. How to Replace a Broken Spoke
Demonstrates a single spoke removal and installation.
If you break a spoke on your wheel, the best thing to do is stop riding until you can get it repaired. However, sometimes you simply have to keep riding, in which case you can keep the broken spoke out of the way by twisting it around an adjacent spoke.
To replace the damaged spoke, first remove your wheel and then the tire, tube and rim tape. Then remove both ends of the damaged spoke and nipple. Spokes usually break either at the nipple or at the hub flange. If it’s a rear wheel, you’ll have to remove the cassette or freewheel first.
Insert the new spoke and gently flex it into place, using the other spokes as a guide. When installed properly, the spoke pattern should be consistent all the way around the wheel.
I personally recommend using linseed oil to lubricate the nipple threads before threading the nipple on to the spoke using a screwdriver or nipple driver.
Gently pre-bend the new spoke by pushing down on it at the hub flange, and then tighten the nipple using a spoke wrench until it has the same tension as the rest of the wheel. Check this by plucking the middle of the other spokes on the same side and then compare them to the sound of the new spoke. Now you can true the wheel as demonstrated in the last tutorial, and re-install your rim tape and tire.
Took on a front axle rebuild on a 1989 Schwinn World Road bike I saved from the trashman. In seperating the cone from the keeper nut on one end of the axle I must have twisted my spanner when it finally broke free. Bad day - the dust cap was forced off and now the dust cap slides completely off the cone. ( see pic ) Does this mean I need to replace the cone with dust cap or whole axle as now nothing will insure that the dust cap will stay in place other than the grease. Can you just get the dust caps and slide a new one back on the cone? Are the cones slightly beveled above the part of t... Read more >>
I'm new to the term "Dish", and have been pointed to links about it...
I've done rims once before... in 1992. put fixed gauge near rim and made sure both sides were identical.
I am up against a rear wheel assembly where I re-positioned spacers and cones on the shaft.
I know the size of the spacer (2mm) but can only guess about the amount of change done to cones... as it was done once in error, and then a 2nd time (after spacer was moved to opposite side, based upon a 'calculated Chain-Line that was within .7mm of where I thought I was heading.)
I have got a fixie wheel which i wish to change so i can use it on my road bike i want to also change it from 12-25 to 11-28 so it makes it easier on the hills, i have attached a image of the wheel i want to change... Read more >>
Im quite fresh to the sport of cycling. Over the last month ive compacted knowlegde on bikes in this tiny brain of mine. That being said, when i started up i bought cheap bikes to work on, so i could just get my hands dirty. I bought and old Sears "FreeSpirit" bike as the first bike i would tweek with. I found out the hard way that my rims/wheelset required a certain wheel size. 26x1 3/8, and that no other 26inch wheel would fit my rim. So now i have a set of bikes, and this FreeSpirit bike just collects dust. I would like to take the tires off the old bike, and install ... Read more >>
I'm back from trip, and all the loose black ceramic bearings that I was waiting for have arrived (These were a gift by the way, for work I did for associate at work).
The bike. 1980 or so Peugeot U09 with solid axle, Normandy Hubs.
When I put in new #25 5/32" bearings on front axle exam (heard noise), 2-3 Months ago, I found the cones pitted (Polished/re-used at that time, as I did not at first find parts)Front axle was also found slightly bent. (I replaced rims and headset bearings on this 10 years ago). Races were good.
Found an ebay quick release axle that f... Read more >>
Hello. I'm new to the forums and was getting a little help in another thread with replacing the bottom bracket on my mountain ( spare ) bike. Parts are on order and now my main beach crusier bike is having issues.
This morning it started creaking bad in the real wheel.
I lubed it up but still sounds bad.
Also the wheel seems true.
Video Of Rear Wheel Creak
Read more >>
Early 1980's Peugeot -- One Owner. Solid Axle.
Hear wheel spin.
Opened it up, and learned the hard way it's loose bearings...
Cones are pitted... Axle is slightly bent.
Bought new Bearings, but No cones or axle is available from local bike shop. Normandy Hub.
Up against a rock and a hard place, this is what I did....
Used Dremel tool, polishing wheel, and jeweler's rouge, and Polished the cone..... to remove the pitting ...
New Bearings and grease, and put it all back together... and it works....
Now, I... Read more >>
I'm about to replace the rear wheel on my bike. The new wheel has a quick release, and I'm wondering if, since the axle is hollow, it would make it more prone to bending than the fixed bolt axle.
The new wheel is the same brand as the old one (Weinmann 519, 26"x1.5), and they appear identical in all respects except for the axle.
My question is, would it be better for the sake of durability to use the old bolt on axle on the new wheel? One consideration may be that my bike is equipped with a freewheel as opposed to a casstette/freehub.
The old axle is, of course, undamaged, I'... Read more >>
I am VERY new to biking. I have a Trek 800 MB from I think 2000. I bought a trainer and want to get a trainer tire for it but have no idea what I need to look for sizewise..... I'm also wondering if for ease I'd want to get another wheel with the tire on that wheel for quick changes?
Thanks!... Read more >>
Hi, I'm new to this forum, so I hope I' m posting this in the right place.
As a matter of general interest, is it any more difficult to change a 7 speed freewheel
to a freehub and cassette setup than by simply changing the wheel and putting the appropriate freehub and cassette on it? I've only recently found out there's a difference, and I'm currious to know more about it.... Read more >>
how about this kind rims,it is more better than bead hook rims?... Read more >>
I need to replace the bearings on my rear wheel, while I'm doing it I plan on changing the Axel as well. The Axel measures 170mm, I was thinking of changing to a quick release one.
My question is how do I know what size Axel do I buy, how do I measure for this.
Neil.... Read more >>
I have an original set of 700c Araya rims that are still going strong on my old Trek roadie. The front is in great shape, but the rear has a little hop(flat spot) in the rim. I was going to replace a couple stripped spoke nipples and figured I'd ask you guys if the hop could be removed, somehow?
It's not too bad, but at low speeds it is more noticeable, than at high speeds.
Thanks !!!... Read more >>
Hi guys. This is my first forum experience.
Ok I have a set of old Ukai rims on my 1983(?) Lotus. I want to keep this baby intact as much as possible but my rear wheel is FUBAR. Everytime i bring it to a repair shop they... make it seem like i have to buy a whole new bicycle because everything that connects to the wheel also needs to be replaced.
Sigh. OK its time to get my hands dirty. What do I need to do here? What measurements do I need to look for so I know what I need to go to ebay to find? Anyone know of some cool light strong wheels that will replace these? ... Read more >>
It's about 30yo. A few years back I bent the rear wheel on our poorly paved streets. I've since acquired a more modern daily ride (CAAD 9) that I quite like.
But I was thinking about refurbishing the Fuji.
I assume that exact parts would be near impossible to find.
Could I modernize the wheel, chain and perhaps the cassette, or is there more to it than just that?... Read more >>