How To Replace a Broken Spoke
Demonstrates a single spoke removal and installation.
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DownloadIf you break a spoke on your wheel, the best thing to do is stop riding until you can get it repaired. However, sometimes you simply have to keep riding, in which case you can keep the broken spoke out of the way by twisting it around an adjacent spoke.
Spoke Removal
To replace the damaged spoke, first remove your wheel and then the tire, tube and rim tape. Then remove both ends of the damaged spoke and nipple. Spokes usually break either at the nipple or at the hub flange. If it’s a rear wheel, you’ll have to remove the cassette or freewheel first.
Spoke Installation
Insert the new spoke and gently flex it into place, using the other spokes as a guide. When installed properly, the spoke pattern should be consistent all the way around the wheel.
I personally recommend using linseed oil to lubricate the nipple threads before threading the nipple on to the spoke using a screwdriver or nipple driver.
Gently pre-bend the new spoke by pushing down on it at the hub flange, and then tighten the nipple using a spoke wrench until it has the same tension as the rest of the wheel. Check this by plucking the middle of the other spokes on the same side and then compare them to the sound of the new spoke. Now you can true the wheel as demonstrated in the last tutorial, and re-install your rim tape and tire.
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14 Responses to “How To Replace a Broken Spoke”
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Raw or boiled linseed oil? Raw doesn’t dry.
Good question. The kind I use does dry, but then breaks and becomes soft again when you turn the spoke nipple, so I’m guessing it is boiled.
I’ve carried out field repairs by unscrewing the broken spoke from the nipple (as opposed to twisting round an adjacent spoke). No danger of catching then, and leaving the nipple in place means you don’t have to remove the wheel/tyre/tube. You can also increase the tension on the two adjacent spokes slightly to remove the worst of the buckle which will doubtless accompany the break. Not sure if there’s an increased risk of (eg) a flat from the spokeless nipple…but last time this happened I covered 100+ miles before finding somewhere with suitable spares.
I needed to remove the cassette to replace two spokes on my rear wheel. I re-assembled everything and trued the wheel. Things seem fine except for a minor issue. If I coast for a bit and then begin to peddle again the crank seems to briefly spin free before the resistance of the gear is felt. If I start peddling aggressively then I notice about 1/2 inch of free spin. If I start peddling slowly it feels as if I can make a quarter spin before I feel the resistance of the gear.
Is it my imagination or does the gear engage immediately on a properly assembled rear hub? When I was putting things back together I noticed the cassette had some play but once I tightened the lock ring everything seemed good.
Is all of this normal or do I have an issue?
A hub overhaul wouldn’t cause this. It sounds like there may be an issue with your freehub body. Sometimes they’ll get dirty or worn and the pawls stop catching all of the time.
Hi,
I’m planning to replace my mountainbike’s tire from a spoke-type to a fixed or solid spoke-type. Can you give me tips on how to choose the right brand.
Please give me advice on the pro’s and con’s of buying solid spoke tires for a mountainbike. I usually go cross-country with my MTB and do a little off-roading.
Hope you could help me on this.
Anton, I don’t have much experience with solid-spoked wheels. The main disadvantage I can see with those would be that they can’t be straightened if they get warped… and while they have uses on a road bike, I wouldn’t recommend them for MTB as there would be too much chance to destroy them beyond repair.
Firstly thanks Alex for your brilliant website, it has helped me loads.
I have just had the need to replace a spoke on my 700c double walled Alex Rim. Just a quick pointer on getting the new nipple through the double walled rim: if you get two replacement spokes (50p each or so) you can use the second spoke to thread the nipple on to backwards and then use this to guide the nipple through the rim and then thread it on to the newly positioned spoke with your fingers. This will release it from the ‘threading’ spoke and you can withdraw it. Worked for me anyways… keep up the good work folks.
Cheers Ben
Hi Alex, my custom built wheel have been giving me problem and I don’t think I want to go back to the LBS. I have a rear non-drive side spoke break on me (I’m using 15 gauge x 32 on Mavic OP/Ultegra hubs). Fortunately, I got my lbs to give me a couple of spare ones just in case it happens when on the road.
They say that spokes breaking on the non-drive side is due to not enough tension. I’m thinking that after i replace the spoke, to try to tension up a little higher just to see if its indeed true….how do i go about to do this? should I go for a 1/4 turn all around the rear drive side then compensate accordingly on the non-drive side? what are the steps…? Thanks.
1/4 turn all the way around will do the trick, but you’ll likely have to tighten both sides to keep the dish (centering) and then re-true. There’s a few more tips about this in the wheel truing video.
My question at this point is how does one by spokes. What do I need to know before buying spokes and what should I look for in a spoke to meet a varying amount of requirements.
When replacing your spoke, you’ll need one with the same length and thickness (diameter). Aside from that, you can choose steel or stainless steel, and sometimes different colors. I personally recommend using the DT Swiss brand of spokes.
Just looking at the rim, spokes and hub, how does one find the size and diameter of the spokes.
Take one of the spokes out of the wheel by unscrewing the nipple with a spoke wrench. Then you can measure the length and thickness of the old spoke (in millimeters).