54. How to Bleed Tektro Auriga Comp Disc Brakes
Learn how to bleed the air out of Tektro Auriga Comp hydraulic disc brakes.
50% of the cost of the bicycle featured in this video was donated by JensonUSA.
In this tutorial we’ll learn how to bleed the hydraulic brake system on Tektro Auriga Comp Disc Brakes. You should always bleed the system after shortening or replacing the hose, or if you have opened the system to air at any time. If your brake action feels spongy, bleeding the system will also improve performance.
For this job you will need a 2, 3 and 4mm allen wrench, a 7mm open end wrench, a T15 Torx wrench, a piston holder or 10mm allen wrench in order to keep the pistons in place, a small bag and elastic band, and a clean rag. You will also need a Tektro hydraulic disc brake service kit, which should include a syringe, 2 lengths of plastic tubing, an outlet valve, and a bottle of Tektro hydraulic brake fluid (mineral oil). Make sure to use the specific type of oil for this brand, as using other types could damage your system. A repair stand and clean work space are also highly recommended.
Mount your bike in the repair stand, making sure the wheel axles are parallel with the floor. Now remove your wheel. Remove the disc brake pads and slide a piston block or 10mm allen wrench into the gap to keep the pistons in place.
Remove the rubber cover from the bleed outlet valve on the brake caliper. Attach the smaller tube from your service kit onto the syringe and fill your syringe about halfway with oil. Now firmly insert the syringe and tube onto the bleed outlet valve.
Using your 4mm allen wrench, slightly loosen the brake lever bracket until it rotates on the handlebar. Loosen and move the shifter out of the way if needed. Rotate the brake lever so that the top of the reservoir tank is parallel with the ground.
Using your T15 Torx wrench, loosen and remove the bolt on top of the reservoir tank, and thread the outlet valve into the hole, with the longer plastic tube firmly attached and place the other end into your plastic bag and keep it in place with an elastic band.
Now open the outlet valve on the caliper slightly 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Using the syringe, push and pull the oil back and forth through the system several times until there are no more air bubbles coming out of either end. Now tighten the bleed valve with your 7mm spanner to 4-6Nm.
Remove the hose and reinstall the rubber outlet valve cover. Now remove the outlet valve from the reservoir and reinstall the bolt using your T15 Torx wrench. Tighten this bolt to 2-4Nm.
Use a clean rag to wipe any excess oil off the lever, caliper, and hose. Reinstall your brake pads and front wheel. Depress the brake lever a few times, to ensure the action feels stiff and not spongy.
In our next tutorial we will take a more in-depth look at replacing and adjusting the brake pads on this model.
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Hello today whilst riding my bike i lost concentration (stupid i know) im only am amateur though :/ anyways i hit a wall with the right side of the bike and my right which is the front brake snapped off. The brake still works i was wondering is this repairable or will i have to use black tape and connect the brake handle back on to the handle of thr bike? I only just bought the bike a week ago from halfords its a mountain bike and really cheap. Any help would be appreciated.... Read more >>
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I replaced the forks on my Trek 4300 for some First Air forks just a couple of days ago. I did the same with my trek 4500 a couple of months ago with no issues.
This time I cannot seem adjust the wheel or the actual disc brake unit correctly. No matter how many times I have tried, the pads still rub ( only lightly but annoying) on the disc. When I am free wheeling there is no noise but when I move the steering erratically, it is much worse. any ideas why this may be? Are the wheel bearing on their way out?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Matt... Read more >>
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LOL.. off to my LBS to get replacements.... Read more >>
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I was given this MTB which has the right support for the rear brakes broken on the frame.
Here is the bike seen from the left side
And here is the details on the "pins" coming out of the frame in the rear, where the rear brakes were mounted (I didn't disassemble them myself, was already like this).
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So i have pad brakes and on the back 1 works and one doesn't, the one that doesn't work, when places in position it is automatically pulled towards the wheel causing the pad to rub the wheel as soon as i tighten it, I've tried taking it off an repositioning it, doing my cables looser and tighter an changing it round for one of my old front brake holders but it just does not stay off the wheel.
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I bought a Schwinn Deluxe Breeze and tried it out, back pedaled and bike braked quickly (maybe a 1/4 rotation) and firmly. Took it for a ride later and about 3 times I pedaled back 3-4 complete rotations and a time or 2 it never did brake.
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I have had everything apart and cleaned it all, the rotor has been off the wheel and cleaned and refitted everything, made sure there are no loose items.
I do not remember this happening on old alu kona frame, I have a carbon cube frame now.
My next move was going to fit some washers between the callipe... Read more >>
I would like to ask for some help from you.
Brakes: Shimano Hydraulic. Used for 1000 km.
Problem: It started to leak. It seems that it is leaking from the "Pushroad to Brake padal/lever" (view image: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/47/Hydraulic_disc_brake_diagram.gif). I do not know the terms but the metal "cable" that connects the reservoir and the lever and the lever itself is oily.
Brakes lost the power.
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