52. How to Box Up Your Bike for Shipping
Learn how to safely package your bike in a cardboard box.
50% of the cost of the bicycle featured in this video was donated by JensonUSA.
Today we'll learn how to package your bike in a box for shipping.
For this job you'll need a bike box. Your local bike shop should have one, but it's a good idea to call ahead with the size of your bike. They should also have some extra fork and axle protectors. Most decent bike shops won't charge for these materials.
You will also need: packing material such as cardboard, pipe insulation, bubble wrap etc., string or zip ties to fasten padding materials, 4, 5 and 6mm allen wrenches, a 15mm pedal wrench and a 15mm open end wrench if your bike has nutted axles. If you have a bike repair stand, it will make this job a lot easier, but is not necessary.
First you'll want to deflate your tires. You don't have to deflate them completely but just enough so they are soft. This prevents any damage that could occur with changes in air pressure associated with air travel.
Now remove your pedals. Loosen the right pedal by turning counter-clockwise. The left pedal is a reverse thread, so you'll have to turn it clockwise to loosen it. See the tutorial titled "How to Replace Your Pedals" for more tips on removing and installing pedals.
If you have caliper brakes, disconnect your front brake cable and remove the front wheel. For more tips on wheel removal see the tutorial titled "How to Remove and Install Your Wheels".
If your wheels have quick release axles, remove the quick release skewer, and thread the end back on in order to keep it together. Press the axle protectors into each side of the front axle. Slide the fork protector up into the fork drop-outs.
Now loosen your seat post clamp and pull the seat and post up and out of the frame.
Using the cardboard or bubble wrap, wrap the entire bike frame, crank arms and ends of the rear axle. Use zip-ties, string or tape to hold these in place.
If you have a threadless headset, loosen and remove the top cap of the stem, and then loosen each individual side bolt. Now you can slide the stem up and off the forks steerer tube. Be careful to hold the fork in place so the headset bearings stay in place. Tighten a zip tie around the steerer tube just above the headset, and then thread the top cap back in place and slightly tighten it just enough to keep it in place.
If you have an older quill type stem, loosen the top bolt about a centimeter and then give it a light tap with a hammer to loosen the quill. Now you can pull the stem up and out of the steerer tube.
Rest the bike on the ground and tie the bike wheel onto the left side of the frame, making sure the axle is not touching any part of the frame. Also make sure your left crank arm is carefully tucked into the wheel spokes so that it does not touch the wheel rim.
Rotate the forks 180 degrees so they are facing backwards. Carefully tuck the handlebars into the right side of the frame. You may need to twist them to ensure the package maintains as low of a profile as possible. Fasten them in place with string or zip ties. Use cardboard or padding as needed to ensure no part of the bars or stem are touching the frame or wheels.
Now lift the bike and slide it into the box.
Wrap your seat and seat post for protection and fasten them to the rear wheel so they don't rattle around the box.
Now place your pedals, quick release, and any other spare parts in a bag or small box and slide it down just behind the fork.
If you have extra materials such as sleeping bags or clothing you can stuff these into the remaining spaces for extra protection.
Now you're ready to close your box and secure it with packing tape on both the top and bottom. Make sure any holes in the box are also sealed.
Hi everyone. I am new here and to cycling in general. I got myself a Giant Cypress (2013, I believe) bike in Arizona. After two years, I needed to move to Atlanta, GA so I had my friendly local bike shop box up my bike and had it shipped away. Here in Atlanta, I don't have a car yet and the days are pretty hectic so I haven't had the time to hit up a local bike shop to have my bike re-assembled.
I'd like to do it myself if possible and I'd like to know what tools are needed to re-assemble the bike? I currently have an adjustable wrench, a hex wrench set, and all sorts of Ph... Read more >>
Recently received this bike from the parents since I moved into the city. I tried to take it to a local bike shop but they said it was better to just buy a new bike instead of trying to update.
Sorry to sound repetitive but I am new to bicycling and have no idea what I am doing. I am willing to learn and I have patience. Yes, I understand that I could more than likely get a bike on Craigslist in running order for the same price for what I'm going to put into this project. I want to be able to ride something that I have built up with my own hands. Anyways onto the bike.
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Hi guys, So my housemates for my birthday decided to buy me a bike as my work is quite far and buses and owning a car are far too expensive for me. However it is very much a bike bought on a student budget and needs some fine tuning and I was wondering if you could help me. I am a complete novice at everything bicycle related and am posting on here to see if I could fix these issues instead of taking it to Halfords and having to pay quite a bit for the repairs.
I have been browsing around this website for a while and there are a few threads which seem to be talking about what I n... Read more >>
Been away for a while.... But wanted to post that the assistance You Folks gave on the Overhaul-ing of the ~1980 Peugeot U09 and ~1970 Gitane Gran Sport Mixte is a resounding 100% Success story!
Bar and Seat repositioning made the posture and comfort level increase;
New cables and improved brake pads made it stop better;
New bearings and seats made it roll better!
Cleaning/Adusting/New cables for Derailleurs and sprockets made it work correctly, and improved cosmetic appearance, too! I did have to epoxy glue the plastic front Derailleur mount on Gitane, as i... Read more >>
Hi everyone! I have a problem which I can't seem to figure out. Recently my rear-gears have been making a VERY loud clicking sound every rotation of the peddle. This only happens when I am in one of the 6 (out of 8) larger gears in the rear, AND I am going uphill and putting a decent amount of force on the peddles. All other times everything is smooth.
So I put my bike upside down, checked to make sure nothing was loose, and tried manually rotating the peddles with my hands in these larger gears. Nothing, it doesn't make a sound, and everything looks un-bent.
Now... Read more >>
I am looking for some inspiration really which way to take this either to continue or scrap this in favour of a 29er.
I have a bike that I have cobbled together over a period of time it used to be a kona cindercone frame I upgraded the front forks to sid's thinking it would make it ride a lot nicer and it still crashes over everything like it a rigid.
I was offered a nice Cube Reaction GTC pro carbon frame so I got it and it still rides harshly, I done some research to find that sid's even when at the specific weight setting run hard so I now run ... Read more >>
I'm new here so please forgive the dumb questions I will eventually
ask. Is there anything definitive available on changing out complete
groupsets. I see some things but was hoping for something that
would include info on the tools needed to complete a project.
Randy... Read more >>
I'm having trouble trying to adjust my mountain bike to my girlfriend's size since she is 5,1 and I am 5,7 inches what can I do to make it where she can ride it and it's a 24x1.95 in set of tires... Read more >>
Hi everyone, I recently had someone vandalize my bike. Not sure if they were trying to steal it or not, but it did get damaged. I want to repair it myself, as I don't think it would be too complicated. Just wanted some help with the part names.
First, the part that keeps the handlebars on the bike is missing - any suggestions as to what that part is called and where I can find a suitable replacement?
Also, the cables to the gear shift was also damaged. The thumb shifter itself is in one piece, just the cables were damaged. I think the brake cables are also damaged. ... Read more >>
Hello everyone, i got a Specialized 27.5" Pitch Sport 2015 and i was looking to replace all the unsealed ball bearings on the bike with sealed bearings (cartridge type?) like on the wheels, bottom bracket, and head set. I'd like to get a quality bottom bracket, a quality head set, and quality sealed bearings for the wheels. The problem is, is that I don't know what to buy. I dont know if my head set is a threaded, tapered or whatever. Yes, im new to all this so im trying to learn, but thats why i know nothing, lol... I'd appreciate any help you guy's can give me. Thanks
Kevin... Read more >>
My sons bike works fine if the
front fork / handlebar is reversed
but will hardly move at all when is
it is turned in the right direction -
I know nothing about bikes - is
something simple?... Read more >>
I run my early college high school's bike share program, and I'm worried about this summer. Despite the Dallas heat, we might have to leave the bikes locked outdoors until school is back in session. The bikes are $100 Wal-Mart single speed bikes, and some are rusted in various places. What can I do to make sure the bikes can survive the summer?... Read more >>
We just got a bike from our uncle that he won at a storage locker auction. Its a Giant Revel. I believe its the original Revel. It has a front disc brake, but it was missing the caliper assemble. The rear brake a standard brake with pads. The rear derailer was broken along with the front derailer. They are the Shimano FD-TX51 and RD-TX55. The front shifters/brake handles are both Shimano, but are different and are in rough shape.
So, I need to replace the front and rear derailer, front brake caliper, and the shift/brake mechanism. Can anyone direct me in the proper direction for ... Read more >>
Have I got this right. Turning the high or low screws counter clock wise increases the amount of travel of the derailleur mechanism on both the front and back? and turning them clock wise decrease travel? Is this the easiest way to think about it?
One other thing I have noticed when replacing both brake and derailleur cables is the new thinner stainless steel cables run much smoother in the Jagwire then the thicker ones they sell do and are much easier to thread through grip shifters etc. as the cable ends seem to be treated so they do not unravel or fray. Well worth the extra ... Read more >>
My bike has been in storage for awhile—is it safe to ride.... Read more >>